September 1976: We climbed what is now called the Direct East Ridge Route. It follows the east ridge over a small summit down to the glacier and then onto the main summit of East Fury (main summit). The exposure on this route is incredible. To the left and right it drops thousands of feet to the valleys below. There is a class 5 step which was thrilling since we had no way to anchor the rope (suggest a medium sized chock or cam), but we made it over that OK. I would strongly suggest this route as a late season alternative to the standard route. It is really a fun little route. Fred called it variation 1a to the main route (the bastard), but it has been since recognized as an entirely separate route with the name of the Direct East Ridge. On the summit, the original piece of paper from the Ptarmigan Climbing Club (the first ascent) was still in the summit register bottle. We were like the 25th ascent and were able to add our names alongside a bunch of famous climbers like Fred Beckey and the Fireys. What fun.
Solo.
This climb is THE classic North Cascades trip, I will never forget how it felt sitting back on Luna Col looking at Fury after the climb.
Matt Lemke - Aug 22, 2016 2:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2016
Both East and West Peaks
Did on a full pickets traverse. Camped on the east peak and did the full traverse to the west peak. Amazing mountain! We got the 18th ascent of the west peak.
Tagged East Fury from the Ross Dam trailhead via Big Beaver and Access Creek in 11h35 up and 20h45 car-to-car. This is a soul-crushingly miserable approach, and it's a long traverse from Luna Col to the summit, but it's still likely faster than coming in somehow from Hannegan Pass. (West Fury through Crooked Thumb might be better reached from there, however.) Trip report.
MValentine - Sep 18, 2015 10:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2015
Rainy Weather
Just our luck, there was perfect weather before and after summit day. One of the hikers in the group wasn't comfortable doing some of the climbing after the Luna col once the rain came so we turned back and did the Luna summit instead. Can't wait to go back for another attempt at the summit.
nickmech - May 1, 2014 1:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2010
East Fury
Camp at Luna Col and traverse long way to Fury. Part of a 6 day Pickets Trip.
Norman - Jul 28, 2010 11:07 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2010
East Fury
Summited on third day from Ross Lake, Access Creek, Luna Col. Perfect weather. Weather during third night deteriorated to rain and wind, but managed to continue day four to Challenger. Second signed entry in Log for Nick and myself this year. LONG ridge to get there, but very rewarding climb. I think I'll pat myself on the back...
ibndalight - Aug 28, 2007 6:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2007
North West Face
We experanced the wraith of mount fury while attempting the north west face. We started at lousie lake and did maybe 1/4 of the face but we were dodging rock fall, ice fall and small rock avalanches the whole time better judgement ended up turning us around. I don't think this route is a good late season climb.
Route Climbed: Normal (from Luna Saddle) Date Climbed: Mid-August 2003
"It is a sublime experience to have been where no one else has been or will ever go." That is the feeling you get standing on a mountain that is remote, tucked away behind the Pickets, in the shadow of true wilderness. Obviously other climbers have made and will continue to make this trip but while we were there it was a taste of true solitude. You could see not one light of a city on the horizon or even one road, you could not even see a trail because there is none up this mountain, not even on the distant valley floor. And to think that we almost turned back several times in doubt of the route, the weather and perhaps a little of ourselves...
anthony_mendoza - Oct 3, 2023 6:28 am
Direct East RidgeSeptember 1976: We climbed what is now called the Direct East Ridge Route. It follows the east ridge over a small summit down to the glacier and then onto the main summit of East Fury (main summit). The exposure on this route is incredible. To the left and right it drops thousands of feet to the valleys below. There is a class 5 step which was thrilling since we had no way to anchor the rope (suggest a medium sized chock or cam), but we made it over that OK. I would strongly suggest this route as a late season alternative to the standard route. It is really a fun little route. Fred called it variation 1a to the main route (the bastard), but it has been since recognized as an entirely separate route with the name of the Direct East Ridge. On the summit, the original piece of paper from the Ptarmigan Climbing Club (the first ascent) was still in the summit register bottle. We were like the 25th ascent and were able to add our names alongside a bunch of famous climbers like Fred Beckey and the Fireys. What fun.
relic - Nov 24, 2019 10:41 am
Standard routeSolo.
This climb is THE classic North Cascades trip, I will never forget how it felt sitting back on Luna Col looking at Fury after the climb.
Matt Lemke - Aug 22, 2016 2:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2016
Both East and West PeaksDid on a full pickets traverse. Camped on the east peak and did the full traverse to the west peak. Amazing mountain! We got the 18th ascent of the west peak.
seano - Jul 26, 2016 4:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2016
Dayhike from Ross DamTagged East Fury from the Ross Dam trailhead via Big Beaver and Access Creek in 11h35 up and 20h45 car-to-car. This is a soul-crushingly miserable approach, and it's a long traverse from Luna Col to the summit, but it's still likely faster than coming in somehow from Hannegan Pass. (West Fury through Crooked Thumb might be better reached from there, however.) Trip report.
MValentine - Sep 18, 2015 10:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2015
Rainy WeatherJust our luck, there was perfect weather before and after summit day. One of the hikers in the group wasn't comfortable doing some of the climbing after the Luna col once the rain came so we turned back and did the Luna summit instead. Can't wait to go back for another attempt at the summit.
nickmech - May 1, 2014 1:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2010
East FuryCamp at Luna Col and traverse long way to Fury. Part of a 6 day Pickets Trip.
Norman - Jul 28, 2010 11:07 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2010
East FurySummited on third day from Ross Lake, Access Creek, Luna Col. Perfect weather. Weather during third night deteriorated to rain and wind, but managed to continue day four to Challenger. Second signed entry in Log for Nick and myself this year. LONG ridge to get there, but very rewarding climb. I think I'll pat myself on the back...
ibndalight - Aug 28, 2007 6:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2007
North West FaceWe experanced the wraith of mount fury while attempting the north west face. We started at lousie lake and did maybe 1/4 of the face but we were dodging rock fall, ice fall and small rock avalanches the whole time better judgement ended up turning us around. I don't think this route is a good late season climb.
setrent - Jul 30, 2007 8:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2007
Southeast GlacierApproached over Whatcom Peak and around Luna cirque. An interesting route that presents multiple challenges. Definitely a worthy endeavor.
Noah (Oregon) - Feb 7, 2004 3:36 pm
Route Climbed: Normal (from Luna Saddle) Date Climbed: Mid-August 2003"It is a sublime experience to have been where no one else has been or will ever go." That is the feeling you get standing on a mountain that is remote, tucked away behind the Pickets, in the shadow of true wilderness. Obviously other climbers have made and will continue to make this trip but while we were there it was a taste of true solitude. You could see not one light of a city on the horizon or even one road, you could not even see a trail because there is none up this mountain, not even on the distant valley floor. And to think that we almost turned back several times in doubt of the route, the weather and perhaps a little of ourselves...