Pantilat - Jul 2, 2007 11:57 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007
Starr's Route
Climbed via North Lake/Lamarck Col/Darwin Canyon in 15:15 roundtrip (6 hours, 55 minutes car to summit). Pretty sweet climb!
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/699547/page/1#Post699547
MoabPeakBagger - Jun 9, 2007 8:32 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2003
sw ridge
SW Ridge from Martha Lake... first major Sierra peak and it blew my mind. Exited via Ionian Basin, which is probably the coolest place in the whole Sierra.
David Senesac - Feb 15, 2007 6:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 1981
SW ridge again
Yup brought some friends up this time.
David Senesac - Feb 15, 2007 6:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 29, 1980
SW ridge
Yup from the southwest via Martha lake solo and recall meeting some others at the top.
xharv - Aug 22, 2006 1:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2006
Southwest Ridge from Martha Lake
Climbed it with sodapants on August 11, 2006. Four hours up, two hours down (with rests). The route is class-2 all the way from Martha Lake to the (lower) South Peak on the southwest ridge. However, there is still plenty of snow on the chute from "Lake 12,240". Crampons are useful, ice axe necessary there.
The South Peak is no more than 200 feet from the main summit. Route's last 100 feet is on a narrow crest. Crossing pinnacles on the crest requires some simple class-3 moves.
Summit register is stolen, but its aluminum cylinder is still there, with a map sheet in it, left by Langenbacher on July 29, 2006. According to this auxiliary register, a party of two summited on August 1 (Starr route from Wanda Lake). No other visitors since. Surprisingly little traffic for a peak with such a fantastic view. Find more in a brief photo report.
Langenbacher - Aug 2, 2006 7:33 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2006
Wanda Pass/East slope
Beautiful trip via Lamarck Col, Evolution Lake camp. My brother got tired of boulder hopping at Wanda Pass and waited 5 hours for me while I Wanda'ed around finding a nice safe solo route. Secor, Roper and Voge said to follow the ridge, but I dropped down 500 ft. to avoid steep ribs on the way to the summit, then dropped 1600 ft. to a lake, 700 ft. up a ridge to follow the snow, and back down to Wanda Pass. We were lucky to have a 3 day window of good weather. Pix at http://community.webshots.com/album/552775663SpxVXb
Matt Worster - Mar 25, 2006 11:13 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2004
Loved it
At the time, my highest peak to date. Part of a 9-day adventure from Florence Lake. LOVED the Ionian Basin.
Route Climbed: Starr's Route Date Climbed: Sept 11, 2005
A really great dayhike with Rick K., Jeff D., and Matthew from North Lake. 17h45m for Jeff and I. This was one of the most enjoyable days of the summer even though I was dreading it some beforehand. Turned out to be quite a bit less painful than I was expecting. Very enjoyable company to boot. Trip Report
Route Climbed: Starr's Route Date Climbed: September 11, 2005
Dayhike from N Lake over Lamarck Col with Bob B, Matthew H, and Rick K. The peak is a long way in, but a fun and picturesque approach through Evolution Valley. We ditched the class 2 Starr's route and forged a spicy 3rd class climb up the toe of the same buttress. A long, gruelling day made all the more fun and rewarding with great views and such inspiring company.
Route Climbed: Starr's Route Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2004
A loooong dayhike out of North Lake via Lamarck Col. I'd recommend trying this with a full moon and/or fresh batteries in the headlamp--cross-country at night with cloud cover and a weak LED can be slow going. I think I'd also try one of the passes out of Lake Sabrina next time.
I got soaked on the way back and had to wait out yet another thunderstorm over Lamarck Col. The pass had a few inches of fresh powder on the way out, making it look quite wintery.
This is the standard by which every subsequent dayhike has been judged. Tough day, but a memorable one. Great fun... I think?
Route Climbed: West chute Date Climbed: September 9, 2004
Climbed with CPSLOKorny. One of the better class 3's. Can aviod the talus and romp on the nice schist. Best summit view in the Sierra..so far. Quite an intense approach...all 30 miles of it.
Route Climbed: West Chute Date Climbed: September 9th, 2004
Part of an 85 mile, 6 day adventure (we did a loop, we saw a lot) starting at Wishon Resv. An easy class 3 with a breath-taking view. Climbed with mthilgard13, this man finds the best routes for adventures
Route Climbed: West Chute (i think) Date Climbed: August 17, 2003
Camped just below Martha Lake with chad and started for the summit early. Spent some time scrambling up an obvious avalanche chute in between Martha Lake and Goddard Lake. Pretty sketch Class 4 climbing up to an obvious point to the right of a gentle saddle. Bad handholds, falling rocks and other issues gave me a huge burst of adrenaline. Took a break on the point and then began rock-hopping up to the summit. Absolutely breathtaking, special spot with incredible views. Descended on the easier southeast side, practiced my scree-skiing moves and took a dip in Martha Lake in the last moments of sunlight. Next day, we left King's Canyon NP by way of Confusion Lake and were lucky enough to see late blooming alpine columbines.
Pantilat - Jul 2, 2007 11:57 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007
Starr's RouteClimbed via North Lake/Lamarck Col/Darwin Canyon in 15:15 roundtrip (6 hours, 55 minutes car to summit). Pretty sweet climb!
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/699547/page/1#Post699547
MoabPeakBagger - Jun 9, 2007 8:32 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2003
sw ridgeSW Ridge from Martha Lake... first major Sierra peak and it blew my mind. Exited via Ionian Basin, which is probably the coolest place in the whole Sierra.
David Senesac - Feb 15, 2007 6:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 1981
SW ridge againYup brought some friends up this time.
David Senesac - Feb 15, 2007 6:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 29, 1980
SW ridgeYup from the southwest via Martha lake solo and recall meeting some others at the top.
xharv - Aug 22, 2006 1:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2006
Southwest Ridge from Martha LakeClimbed it with sodapants on August 11, 2006. Four hours up, two hours down (with rests). The route is class-2 all the way from Martha Lake to the (lower) South Peak on the southwest ridge. However, there is still plenty of snow on the chute from "Lake 12,240". Crampons are useful, ice axe necessary there.
The South Peak is no more than 200 feet from the main summit. Route's last 100 feet is on a narrow crest. Crossing pinnacles on the crest requires some simple class-3 moves.
Summit register is stolen, but its aluminum cylinder is still there, with a map sheet in it, left by Langenbacher on July 29, 2006. According to this auxiliary register, a party of two summited on August 1 (Starr route from Wanda Lake). No other visitors since. Surprisingly little traffic for a peak with such a fantastic view. Find more in a brief photo report.
Langenbacher - Aug 2, 2006 7:33 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2006
Wanda Pass/East slopeBeautiful trip via Lamarck Col, Evolution Lake camp. My brother got tired of boulder hopping at Wanda Pass and waited 5 hours for me while I Wanda'ed around finding a nice safe solo route. Secor, Roper and Voge said to follow the ridge, but I dropped down 500 ft. to avoid steep ribs on the way to the summit, then dropped 1600 ft. to a lake, 700 ft. up a ridge to follow the snow, and back down to Wanda Pass. We were lucky to have a 3 day window of good weather. Pix at http://community.webshots.com/album/552775663SpxVXb
Matt Worster - Mar 25, 2006 11:13 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2004
Loved itAt the time, my highest peak to date. Part of a 9-day adventure from Florence Lake. LOVED the Ionian Basin.
Bob Burd - Oct 3, 2005 11:27 pm
Route Climbed: Starr's Route Date Climbed: Sept 11, 2005A really great dayhike with Rick K., Jeff D., and Matthew from North Lake. 17h45m for Jeff and I. This was one of the most enjoyable days of the summer even though I was dreading it some beforehand. Turned out to be quite a bit less painful than I was expecting. Very enjoyable company to boot. Trip Report
tpdwr - Sep 28, 2005 9:56 pm
Route Climbed: East slopes Date Climbed: August 28, 1986Incredible views!
Desert Solitaire - Sep 13, 2005 9:17 pm
Route Climbed: Starr's Route Date Climbed: September 11, 2005Dayhike from N Lake over Lamarck Col with Bob B, Matthew H, and Rick K. The peak is a long way in, but a fun and picturesque approach through Evolution Valley. We ditched the class 2 Starr's route and forged a spicy 3rd class climb up the toe of the same buttress. A long, gruelling day made all the more fun and rewarding with great views and such inspiring company.
tiogap - Sep 8, 2005 10:42 pm
Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: September, 1979long way in
Matthew Holliman - Nov 17, 2004 11:43 pm
Route Climbed: Starr's Route Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2004A loooong dayhike out of North Lake via Lamarck Col. I'd recommend trying this with a full moon and/or fresh batteries in the headlamp--cross-country at night with cloud cover and a weak LED can be slow going. I think I'd also try one of the passes out of Lake Sabrina next time.
I got soaked on the way back and had to wait out yet another thunderstorm over Lamarck Col. The pass had a few inches of fresh powder on the way out, making it look quite wintery.
This is the standard by which every subsequent dayhike has been judged. Tough day, but a memorable one. Great fun... I think?
mthilgard13 - Sep 22, 2004 4:57 pm
Route Climbed: West chute Date Climbed: September 9, 2004Climbed with CPSLOKorny. One of the better class 3's. Can aviod the talus and romp on the nice schist. Best summit view in the Sierra..so far. Quite an intense approach...all 30 miles of it.
CPSLOKorny - Sep 14, 2004 4:23 am
Route Climbed: West Chute Date Climbed: September 9th, 2004Part of an 85 mile, 6 day adventure (we did a loop, we saw a lot) starting at Wishon Resv. An easy class 3 with a breath-taking view. Climbed with mthilgard13, this man finds the best routes for adventures
RSN473 - Mar 4, 2004 11:52 am
Date Climbed: Sept 8, 2000Climbed in 3 days from west side
dinkeycrew - Dec 5, 2003 5:45 pm
Route Climbed: West Chute (i think) Date Climbed: August 17, 2003Camped just below Martha Lake with chad and started for the summit early. Spent some time scrambling up an obvious avalanche chute in between Martha Lake and Goddard Lake. Pretty sketch Class 4 climbing up to an obvious point to the right of a gentle saddle. Bad handholds, falling rocks and other issues gave me a huge burst of adrenaline. Took a break on the point and then began rock-hopping up to the summit. Absolutely breathtaking, special spot with incredible views. Descended on the easier southeast side, practiced my scree-skiing moves and took a dip in Martha Lake in the last moments of sunlight. Next day, we left King's Canyon NP by way of Confusion Lake and were lucky enough to see late blooming alpine columbines.
Dave K - Aug 3, 2003 9:25 pm
Route Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 27, 2003Great views from the summit! We managed to summit before a developing storm system hit us.