Mount Hood Climber's Log

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Noah (Oregon)

Noah (Oregon) - Mar 15, 2004 11:04 pm

Route Climbed: South Side / Hogsback Date Climbed: March 13th, 2004  Sucess!

This was my fifth time (fourth on this route). I love it and will never refer to it as a "slog" even though it is little more than "uphill hiking on snow" to use the words of a good friend and summit partner. The Hogsback was narrow and I didn't like the snow conditions personally. I felt like something wasn't quite right but we headed through the masses (left and 4 a.m. and were on top at 8 a.m.) and made it out and back safely. I don't understand why so many people go so late. There were still hordes going up at 10 a.m. and frankly I was happy to be getting out of there at 8:00... Perhaps I am paranoid about large numbers of novices crowded onto a sunny 40 degree slope all of them on no sleep. Call me crazy. - NOAH


climberkristin - Mar 15, 2004 5:58 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: Mar 12/13. 04  Sucess!

Couldn't have had better conditions or better company. Clear skies at midnight when we started, huge orange moon greated us at the top of Palmer.

We were making better time than expected so we had to kill a COLD hour below the hogsback to see sunrise.

Great views from the top, Sisters, Broken Top, Adams, St. Helens....

Solid snow, loose ice made the decent hairy only because of the mobs coming up at that time.

Overall, amazing experience!

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Mar 13, 2004 7:43 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: March 13, 2003  Sucess!

Headed up with jhalz to do Leuthold Couloir. Got a late start (4:10 am) and had some beta from dkantola that it was a warzone of ice so figured it would be a mess by the time we got there so decided on West Crater Rim instead. When we got just below Crater Rock the sun was already on that one and worried about the slab slides we could see so decided to do South Side instead. My fourth time doing it. Conditions were great except in the Gates where lots of little ice pellets and sugar-like snow had accumulated. Up in 5 hours, down in about 2 hr 45 mins and I was holding up jhalz at that pace. A bit of icefall even in the Chute.

Saw fellow summitposters crirwin on the route and Martin Cash in the parking lot. After talking to Martin, I felt better about not doing Leuthold this time. I MUST get back and do that route though.


cluck - Mar 13, 2004 3:14 pm

Route Climbed: Leuthold Coulior Date Climbed: 3/12/03  Sucess!

With a fine weather and favorable avy forecast for the weekend, we decided to blow off work Friday and hit LC before the masses.

We traded crowds for slighly less favorable weather conditions, as a weak weather front provided us with 30MPH sustained winds, low vis and a coating of rime ice.

Think we were a little off route after the hour glass because climbing stayed steep, including couple of short pitches estimated at 60 degrees while climbing around some obstacle or another. Without being able to see much, up was good, so up we went.

Just as we topped out before the airy traverse to the true summit, the clouds parted. Wouldn't have been happy to try and make that traverse in a white out.

Very little ice fall (almost every TR I've read insisted the route was likely to be a bowling alley) was a blessing.

Our group typically is a bit faster than average, but it took us over 8 hours to get up.

Food for thought.....while not technical, this route is a pretty big step up physically from South Side slog unless you get better snow and weather conditions than we had. 2000+ feet of sustained 40-45 climbing isn't for the timid or physically unprepared.


dkantola - Mar 12, 2004 11:00 pm

Route Climbed: Leuthold Couloir Date Climbed: March 11, 2004  Sucess!

Snow was solid neve thanks to an unusual melt-freeze cycle that started the previous few days. The route never felt steep or exposed, but frequent barrages of ice fall made it more interesting to say the least. Stay away from this route in warm weather.


esugi - Mar 6, 2004 11:07 pm

Route Climbed: South Side (Hogsback) Date Climbed: July 1999  Sucess!

This mountain is always special for me because it was my first ever climb, back in 1999. My friends Mike, Philippe, and I carried something like 45-50 lbs and camped above Palmer chairlift for one night. Crazy, after looking back (I would just start from the parking lot with a 25 lb pack next time). Plan to head back there in spring 2004.


cmc56789 - Mar 3, 2004 5:29 pm

Route Climbed: South Side / Hogback Date Climbed: March 2, 2004  Sucess!

Started out with a clear sky. about the time I passed Illumination Rock some clouds moved in but stayed below the 9000' ft level, leaving clear blue sky above. the clouds limited the views from the summit and I could only see the very tops of the Sisters, Jefferson, and Rainier. I could see Adams and St. Helens a little better. The Bergschrund was completely filled in. I saw about 12 other climbers mostly ski/snowboard mountaineers. on the way back down, there were a few points near the ski area where i could only see about 5 feet in front of me due to the clouds. It was nice to not deal with the big crowds, Rockfall, and crevasse danger that are more frequent later in the season.

Jeff H - Feb 26, 2004 8:28 pm

Route Climbed: Southside Date Climbed: Feb. 21, 2004  Sucess!

Second trip to the summit in the last two months. Had a great view this time. Everyone on the route enjoying a great weather day.


cluck - Feb 22, 2004 9:38 pm

Route Climbed: South side Date Climbed: 2/21/04  Sucess!

What a nice day on the South side.

Not super cold for Feb. Little wind. Steps from the parking lot to the summit. Pearly Gates super easy. Views on top. As tame and easy as a Hood climb will ever be.

Lots of climbers due to the nice weather. Saw parties on two different routes on Devil's Kitchen headwall, which appeared to be in fine shape.

Ran into a group from SF bay area, climbing Hood as a bachelor party. Boy did they luck out on the weather. However, poor form for a bach. party as there wasn't booze or strippers on the summit.

Left parking lot at 6:20AM. Up top in 5.5 hours.


dkantola - Feb 17, 2004 12:24 am

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: February 10, 2004  Sucess!

Solid windpack above the Palmer made for good walking conditions going up. It was warm and windless with unlimited visibility on the summit. The 'schrund was completely bridged and covered.

burn'n - Feb 11, 2004 4:28 pm

Route Climbed: Steel Cliffs Date Climbed: Feb 10,2004  Sucess!

Traversed across head of White River @ 3am, Cimbed the main chute to the east of the main rock outcropping. 5.5 mixed ice/rock. The only real troubles were the holes/cavities created by the hot rocks, creating mini crevases/holes that would suck me in. The rime coating was a little weak for some the exposure to put too much faith in my tools. Had to leave a pair of poles at about 10,500 on the west side of the ridge, they kept getting caught on ovver hangs and walls. So if you find them they are all yours. Stayed on the ridge the whole way and only hit the Wy'East when it meets the ridge. But the day was beautiful and the night moonlight was plenty to climb by. Took 7 hrs from the parking lot to summit, solo.


farkenclimbin - Feb 10, 2004 7:58 pm

Route Climbed: Hogs back Date Climbed: 2-09-2004  Sucess!

Great day. It was a little gusty hiking up palmer, but not too bad. We had to cut our tracks so it was slow going. 7 hours to the top. It was well worth the effort. The summit was amazing! No wind and very good visibility. Awsome day.


vertx - Feb 9, 2004 8:36 pm

Route Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: February 9, 2004  Sucess!

Perfect day. No clouds. Very warm. No wind on the summit. A lot of postholing after the Palmer Chair. It made for a log day to the summit. Over 6 hours from Timberline, 2 hours down. We spent 30 Minutes enjoying the view on the summit. Helens, Rainier and Adams on one side, the Sisters on the other.

Dave in Bend - Jan 26, 2004 9:08 pm

Route Climbed: South Side/Hogback Date Climbed: May 20, 1995....June 12, 1999....April 8, 2000....June 24, 2000  Sucess!

I have climbed Mount Hood a total of 4 times and fell off it once. That's what happens when you get too cocky. I did my third successful summit of the volcano on a crystal-clear morning, April 8, 2000. Everything was going great until I started down from the top. Just as I was descending into the steepest part of the Chute (without crampons), I lost my footing and fell down 300 vertical feet of steep ice to the bottom of the crater bowl just behind Crater Rock. That fall kicked the living crap out of me, but it could have been much, much worse. I signed up for a mountaineering course with Timberline Mountain Guides a month or so later and summited the mountain again in June, this time with ropes and a guide. Mount Hood is a great mountain and a very enjoyable climb, but if you underestimate it and don't treat it with the respect it demands of all climbers, it will kick the shit out of you. If you're lucky, you might live to talk about it.


dkantola - Jan 23, 2004 9:05 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: January 21, 2004  Sucess!

Temperature was in the mid-20s, but with no wind and high altitude solar radiation it was the hottest day I've experienced on Mt. Hood. The bergschrund was almost closed and bridged across the middle. In the winter you should approach the Hogsback by heading straight for Crater Rock and staying as close to the rime-encrusted rock as possible. Don't cross the avalanche prone slope between Devils Kitchen and Crater Rock like you would in late spring/summer.

Jeff H - Jan 18, 2004 3:56 pm

Route Climbed: South Side/Hogsback Date Climbed: January 17th, 2004  Sucess!

First trip to the summit. Left he parking lot at 6:15am and had a easy hike to just below Crater Rock. Meet three climbers from Portland who were postholing up to the Hogsback. Thanks guys for the steps. Continued climbing with this group (gave me a chance to payback some of their hard work) over the bergshrund and thru the pearly gates. We were the first to the summit. Clouds were thick but the wind wasn't terrible. Pictures of an untracked summit are great but guess the view will have to wait until another day. Climbed back down and was home in Camas by early afternoon. Awesome day for a climb.


kovarpa - Dec 23, 2003 12:38 pm

Route Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: August 18, 2003  Sucess!

Very late in the season - icy and loose rock in Pearly Gates (or whatever you call that gully above the bergshrung) - it was very stupid from me not to wear a helmet...


jverschuyl - Oct 24, 2003 12:56 pm

Route Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: July 02 1994  Sucess!

Reached the summit in driving rain and ice. I hear the view is nice, so I'll be back. Hopefully next time to try Cooper's Spur.


IdahoSummits - Oct 12, 2003 10:58 pm

Route Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: June 15, 2003  Sucess!

Great trip, perfect weather!


vertx - Sep 28, 2003 11:31 am

Route Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: June 29, 2003  Sucess!

Started about 11:45 at night to try to avoid any crowds. Nasty weather through 9000 feet.

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