Sandy Headwall, Sandy Couloir, Hogsback, Leutholds Couloir, Reid Glacier Headwall, North Face
I've been climbing Mt. Hood for over 15 years now, and I've learned that the winter is the only time worth being on the south side. No crowds, no postholes, no one to floss you off the face, and no rocks or ice chucks barreling down at you all the time.
Climbed it at least 5 times as prep for Rainier. The Pearly Gates never got old :).
Best part was the soak in T-Line lodge Hot Tub afterwards
Great climb - beautiful section of the mountain. Our guide started to give me the willies right when we were trying to get around the bergschrund on the north side. I guess all's well that ends well in this instance. Decided to drive back to Seattle that night and became well acquainted with the shoulder warnings on I-5 each time I nodded off. I'm an idiot.
Climbed with pat up the south side route to the devil's kitchen head wall. started at 1:00 am with 1 hour sleep and made it to the summit by 6 am.
Badly sun-cupped chute. Amazingly, I had the summit to myself for about 10 minutes, then shared it for about an hour with two other guys who wanted to ski/board it. I thought it was supposed to be crowded.
Climbed via the standard Hogsback route. Pretty easy climb compared to many of the other mountains because of shorter distance and elevation. Final climb steep but not too bad, several turned around when they saw it though.
Sunshine route (Elliot Glacier)
Started out from Cloud Cap campground @ 4.43. As we'd just gotten there in the dark, somewhat disoriented- took some walking around to figure out the correct way to go. Further confused by sign saying trail @ river crossing impassable.
Fortunately, not too much thought was put into it & we just kept going (never discovered what they were talking about). Before we knew it, we were on the ridge above timberline, looking at the sun catching up to us, with the hulking masses of St. Helens & Adams looming behind us- awesome surroundings!
Roped up at an island below headwall leading to bench below main body of glacier. Passing below main icefall surreal- I'd never been at such close range to such an impressive glacial phenomenon! Climb up to Cathedral Ridge past Horseshoe Rock the most interesting part of climb- traversing & climbing steep slush directly over the huge 'schrund (glad we didn't test those pickets!) airy & thought-provoking! Quite relieved once we attained Cathedral Ridge...
Some delicate ridge traversing directly adjacent some enormous cornices & we were at the top of Oregon! Summited at 13.17. Hung out & enjoyed the phenomenal views from the top, while enjoying some brew & snacks.
Left summit ~14.30. As I didn't desire to downclimb the route we'd ascended after it had gotten even slushier, we made the decision to descend the S side. After taking awhile to identify the correct features of the route, I concluded that there was no way I wanted to descend the steep, slushy nightmare of the Pearly Gates. After some traversing the way back whence we'd come, we downclimbed a variation conveniently situated between 2 debris paths. When looking down from below, it seemed to be one of 2 of the different S side variations. While it was steep (we faced in while downclimbing until shortly above the exit to Devils Kitchen), I was glad we chose this way while watching countless discharges from the rocks & walls above. Besides Faith getting a headache from the notable sulfur emissions, the remainder of the way down was uneventful. Bergschrund on the standard route was absolutely enormous! Got to Timberline maybe 6ish.
Then came the adventure of getting back to my truck, some 30 miles away... Great day on an amazing peak with wonderful company!
Went up from Timberline via the South Side Old Chute Variation. Very windy day with gust over 50 mph. The wind made everything icy. Had to crawl over the knife edge to avoid being blown off!
Hiked from Timberline starting at midnight under a full moon and clear skies. At Hogsback by 3:30. Waited there for friends until 4:45, then proceeded to summit. On top at 5:50. Gorgeous morning, great climbing conditions. More snow than in 2008 at this time of year, and "steps" no near as well defined on last steep push to the top.
We had just climbed Mt. Rainier, then got in the car and drove to Mt. Hood. We slept in the car for about two hours then started our hike around 1:00am. Got to the summit just as the sun was rising and casting a perfect pyramid shaped shadow across the valley.The weather could'nt have been been better.We made it back to the car around 9:00am and flew back to S.L.C with a total trip time of both summits in 64 hours.
Started at midnight, nice compact snow. 15-30 mph winds. Climbed south side, over hogback and up the old chute. Icy, but nice steps carved in on the steeper slopes. Summited around 7 am. Amazing views from the top. Able to glissade from just below Devil's kitchen to the top of Palmer lift. Overall a perfect day.
Big thanks to Dave for all his driving and positive energy. Left Timberline at 10:45PM with EastKing, his friend Dave and my brother. Dave got sick at ~9,000' and we split into two teams with EK sacrificing his summit bid. I continued with my brother. We climbed to Crater Rock, radioed our postion, and climbed up through the "Old Chute" which was steep and uncomfortably hard packed snow. Summit ridge was a hair raiser but no sweat. Summited at about 5:30 AM. Killer views. I mean it though; watch out or it'll kill ya'. Downclimbed the chute and descended original route getting back at around noonish.
I probably climbed too late in the season...shrund was massive. However, I had great weather and few people were on the mountain.
Camped above the Palmer ski lift the night before and went up the old chute route on the 8th. We had to front point up the old chute because of snow conditions. Fantastic views from the summit that morning!
About the coldest I've ever been in June. Camped just above the ski lift the night of a 'Winter Storm Advisory' in June. Our 3-season tent filled with blowing snow all night. Started to pack up in the morning to head down, but at daybreak the winds left and decided to climb on. Went the Old Crater Route due to ice conditions through the gates. Not a bit of rockfall due to the cold, and had a wonderful afternoon on top under sunny skies.
The hardest part of the climb was dealing with all of the people. There was nearly a fistfight at the Pearly Gates and someone from Iowa or Ohio asked my advice for how to get back down because it was so steep. I think I had good advice, "don't sit down because your outer layer is really slippery"
We woke up at 1:30 and left Portland at 2:00. We were at Timberline at 3:30 and climbing at 4:00. We carried our ski boots and skis this time so the slog up the ski slope was tougher than usual. We got to the top of Palmer at 5:40 where we dropped the skis. Lighter and wearing crampons, we got to the Hogsback in good form and dropped down to climb from the base of the West Crater / Mazama route. It was about as steep as the Pearly Gates but obviously much more wide open. The warm air caused a lot of rimey chunks to roll down at us but I didn't think it was going to get worse as the morning went on so I pushed straight up to the rime chutes at the top of the slope and crossed [climber's] right to the main summit area. It was a wonderful day! We were back down at the car by about 10 (thanks to the skis).