Nice job Larry. First attempt success is always sweet
Our healthy group of about six departed Timberline just before sunrise. Wow, crazy headwinds all day were taxing to say the least, long slow slog that day for sure. Ski down from the west saddle was all ice & chicken heads during our ski descent. Bleh!
Ben & I departed Timberline around 8am to nearly perfect winter conditions. Not a ton of traffic for a Sunday, sunny and snow already quite soft. Took the southwest chute rather than pearly gates. Ski off the saddle to the west was as sweet as imaginable, snow quite soft for up high, perfect down yonder.
Departed Timberline a little after 4am, stashed skis just above the Palmer catwalk. Snowbridge over the bergschrund was all but gone, had to step over the gap, pearly gates were boney with the last of the ice chipping away with every climber. Summit around 9 or 10, a few snowboarders up there but overall a rather peaceful day on the mountain.
Ended up doing this as an overnight trip; trekked up to near the top of the Palmer Lift on Friday and built a pretty stylish snow cave. Left camp at around 8:00 for the summit. Weather was spectacular up until around 10,000. Past that we were in a whiteout; the summit was blisteringly cold and windy (no view north, but occasional view to the South). Overall route conditions were great; there was a well defined path leading right up the Hogsback (the bergschund isn't there yet). The pearly gates were a bit icy but easily doable with crampons and an axe. I'd estimate that about 40 people summitted; we were one of the later groups to reach the top (too busy having fun sleeping...).
We were fortunate to hit a good weather window following last week's storm. Despite the avi rating at moderate, we found the conditions to be rather stable on the route. There was a fair amount of post holing traversing the Reid Glacier although no open crevasses. The couloir was in "decent" shape. We followed a funnel of run-out for a couple hundred feet in the center of the couloir despite our better judgement due to loose, deep snow elsewhere. We did use a couple of ice screws through the hourglass. The ridge above was in great condition and easy to follow although there were large cornices overhanging the East Face. Overall...a great late-winter climb. We saw at least 3 other teams who approached yet turned around so had the couloir to ourselves.
Left TH at 2am with a 3 day past-full moon. Temps were in mid20's with manageable winds. Climbing partner was having equip. pblms so I went ahead. With excellent snow conditions was able to get thru Pearly Gates with just a walking axe using the shaft as an anchor.
Made the summit by 8:30am with excellent views all around. Came down old chute. Temps were warming up by 10am and was down to a single layer. Heard Pearly Gates had an ice avalanche later that day
Flew in at 6:00 on Thursday night and drove straight out to the TH. Slept in the rental car. Low snow and icy conditions but great start to the weekend.
Conditions were good enough for a late in the year ascent. A bit icy towards the top of the Old Chute, but not too bad. The winds were really whipping on top which made it tricky to stay upright. Up and back with Greg Jagielski in less than 5 hours.
Left the car at 4am, summit by 10am. Such a beautiful day. We stayed on the summit for almost an hour. We were chased by blocks of rime on the way done. Beautiful summit with kick ass views
Summited with Timberline Mountain Guides via the Pearly Gates route on the south side. Small team of one guide and two clients spent two nights camping at Illumination Rock before hitting the roof of Oregon on Day 3. Felt great to finally grab this one after two unsuccessful attempts in 2011 and 2012.
With the help of Timberline and all the Vin Diesel quotes I had memorized the climb was smooth with the best alpine views I'd ever seen.
Great hike and a beautiful day. Couldn't have asked for better weather or overall conditions. Started at 2a and made it back to the Timberline by 10a.
7 of us from Utah summited at 8:30 am on May 28th. We went up the south side route and up the Old Chute to the left of the Burg. Was probably one of the most gorgeous mornings to summit of the year. Hard snow all the way up made for easy crampon placement and zero clouds or wind. Fumarole and Devil's kitchen were as smelly as a volcano should be. Hog's back is super small compared to years past. We roped up and used pickets/ ice screws on the way down the chute just to be extra-cautious. I would say about half of the groups on the mountain roped up and half did not. Great adventure. Organized through the Wasatch Mountain Club.
My 11th State HP.
Link to some really crappy goPro footage of our trip:
Sunny Day. Hard snow above Devil's Kitchen on the way up. Especially high in the Chute. Softer on the way down below the Chute.
Left the TH at 4:00am. (not a big believer that you need to leave Timberline and midnight) Summited around 8:45 via Old Shoot. Snow is in great shape right now. Pearly Gates seems to be looking better as Hogs Back is now almost directly below it. Still I played it safe and went Old Shoot. We had to pass 3 roped teams that were not using running belays, nor any belay for that matter. Please if you choose to climb steep snow/ice understand that roping up just means that you all will go down and most likely floss anybody else of the mountain. Please be safe. Back at TH by 1:00pm.
lots of snow at this time.
Me, my Mom, and Dad got to the Mountain at about 6:30am, and we made our way by a stream. Stupid wet log started to freak me out whenever I walked across, but I made it. Lots of bugs, and its ticking me off( Get it, ticking me off LOL!) but after we got to the cold part it was worth it. But when I reached 12,500 feet I fell 50 feet down an 80 degree slope. That sucked, and hurt, but I kept going. Then when I was at 13,250 feet my mom, and dad said it was time to leave because it was snowing, a blizzard was coming, and It was 15 degrees out. So I just went back, but I will complete it this year.
I joined a party of six other climbers, Tim from St.Louis, Dave from Rapid City,SD, Mike and Al from Mass, Kent from Titusville, NJ, and Mike from Portland. Guided by Eric and Bob with Timberline Mountain Guides, we began our ascent (after taking the snow cat up to 8500 feet) at 2:30am. After making only two stops (I would have preferred a couple more)we summited at 6:30am. Virtually no wind. Clear skies. Quite a beautiful mountain. We were soon joined at the top by an 80 year-old man from Las Vegas and his 46 year-old son along with another Timberline Mountain guide. Thought to be the oldest to have ever made the summit of Mt Hood.
Anchorage, Alaska USA