Lenny72 - Jun 30, 2019 12:34 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2019
Awesome Climb
Woke up at midnight on the 23rd to no visibility and high wind so waited until the morning of the 24th. Conditions were still windy but clear and cold. Ascended from Timberline Lodge up the South Side via the Old Chute and descended the same way. The view from the summit was amazing.
bluecappo - Jun 18, 2019 12:17 pm Date Climbed: May 13, 2016
Pearly Gates
Stoked to finally make it up this busy mountain. Took some time to get used to hiking near groomers at night - not your typical NW ascent. Was also the windiest climb I've experienced; I now typically throw in a set of ski goggles with my gear because of this climb.
chrisc - May 15, 2019 3:56 pm Date Climbed: May 9, 2019
Xander Culver - May 12, 2019 11:31 pm Date Climbed: May 11, 2019
Oh Yeah!
So good!
LarryEnglish - May 11, 2019 12:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 1963
Timberline Lodge, Hogsback
With fellow UO grad students Frank and Doug. Started 4:00 AM, summit 8:00 AM, first there. Walked the ridge until the clouds cleared and we could see down the other side. Not sure of date but a Friday in July, '63.
chrisc - May 3, 2019 4:05 pm Date Climbed: May 3, 2019
Liba Kopeckova - Apr 30, 2019 8:16 am Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2019
nice and quick hike up
Started from Timberline Lodge and summited just at beautiful sunrise. The hike/climb went easier and faster than expected. No ropes needed.
theoglick - Apr 7, 2019 8:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2017
Solo climb, standard south side route
A beautiful day for climbing, and Hood was a bucket-lister for me, so I was very stoked to finally get up there. Up and down the Old Chute, and enjoyed 20 minutes of solitude on the summit.
travel_murse - Mar 20, 2019 2:12 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2019
Hogsback
Seeing the perfect triangle mountain shadow made me question reality.
billydheyhey - Nov 19, 2018 7:20 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2017
HP #21!
All snow, minimal trees, with a slight scent of sulfur on this volcano..
Saw sunrise at the top though, with the shadow of the mountain across the wilderness, which was unbelievable.
Awesome day on Hood. All sun with a little breeze at the top. Probably around 12 people that made summit today, pretty small for a weekend (but I guess it is late season). The bergschrund is enormous. It could probably swallow up every skier at the resort and still have room. The Pearly Gates really did not look reasonable to climb. Old Chute is in good condition except for the small crevasse right below it. It was completely dark when I was at the Hogsback, so I made my best judgement with what I could see. You could probably go even further to the left of Old Chute for some even better conditions. Rock fall and ice fall was not bad along the route. I heard a TON of rockfall off route though, kinda closer to the Steel Cliff area. Look out for the other small crevasses in the area. You won't fall in, but you could very well get half of your body jammed in if you misstep.
Tristanh - Jul 16, 2018 9:46 pm Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2018
Summer south side ascent and dilemma on Pearly Gates vs. Old Chutes route to summit
We had beautiful weather and stable late season conditions for a successful summit attempt on Mt Hood via the left alternative Pearly Gate approach (continue reading for more info and see link for at bottom).
We were a team of two and knew that the window is closing fast on summiting safely due to increased risks with rock/snow fall on the higher parts of the mountain. We decided to go up mid-week to avoid crowds and associated risks. We arrived at the Timberline lodge car park late afternoon and hiked up to camp on the right side of the top of Palmer chair lift/ski area. We woke up at 1:30am and left by 2:30am to get a head start on the summit as we planned to be on the way down from summit and below Pearly Gates well before 8am when sun starts to warm
up the mountain and increase chances of rock/ice fall.
We got Crater Rock and at base of Hogsback just as daylight was breaking. We met two other climbers (cousins from from Beaverton, OR) and we were reviewing conditions and options on which approach to take to the summit (Pearly Gates vs Old Chutes). We had printed several images and maps of the Southside of the mountain which helped review options. The Bergschrund ‘crevasse’ was quite wide above the Pearly Gates but there was still a small section on the right side against mountain which was unaffected and could be traversed safely. With the increase in temperature this summer, the Bergschrund will most likely soon cut all the way across to the right making the Pearly Gates approach inaccessible and very dangerous.
We started going up the main Pearly Gate (on the right) but eventually found out that the last section was too steep and icy at this time of the season and would have been extremely difficult and dangerous on the way down (despite being well equipped).
We descended slightly and instead took the left Pearly Gate alternative which wasn’t as steep, icy and felt much safer.
We then made it to the summit shortly after 6am after a short walk on the right side.
We spent 10min enjoying the incredible views of the other major cascade volcanoes and made our way down swiftly without stopping until we were under the Crater Rock and in a safer part of the mountain.
The other climbers we met eventually went up the Old Chute and so did another group of 4 we saw. They however took quite a while to come down and around the Bergschrund onto the Hogsback. There are pros/cons to either approach which you can read about online.
Here is a quick video of our adventure: https://youtu.be/4QdriymUuIU
Kristalea - Jun 18, 2018 1:03 pm Date Climbed: May 7, 2018
Highpoint #21 Via Hogsback/Pearly Gates
One of my favorite climbs! We had a clear day and a view of the mountains' morning shadow. It was beautiful seeing Rainier from the summit and I loved the rock formations around Devils Kitchen. We didn't have to wait too long at the Pearly Gates.
tcingrum - Jun 17, 2018 12:05 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2016
Pearlies
Stayed cool for firm snowpack. All perspiration turned to frost up top. Bit of a bottleneck in the chute. Good day overall.
kevinsa - Jun 16, 2018 11:35 am Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2018
Mt. Hood
Took the left variation on the Pearly Gates as the right side had a short section of water ice that did not look appealing. Left side also required some step cutting to safely ascend. The mountain clouded over as soon as we summited. Glad we had GPS to get us back to 8000’ as visibility was very poor. Seven hours car-to-car.
WayneFry - Jun 15, 2018 2:44 pm Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2018
Mazama Chute
We base camped at Illumination saddle with the intent of climbing the Leuthold couloir the next day. We discovered the route was melted out and chose to climb the Mazama chute. Fun climb on a cold sunny day.
Planned to stay at 9,000' with a weather forcast at the summit of 10mph wind, low of 37 and 0 precip. Stated blowing sustained 35 and alternating tiny sharp hail and rain at 8,500'. Waited an hour before turning back. It was a real bummer, second year coming from Michigan for this mountain just to get onit and be shut down by weather. Glad we did, there were a couple incidents later in that storm.
larch32 - Jun 4, 2018 10:43 pm Date Climbed: May 1, 2016
A break from Smith Rock
It was so icy and loud skiing down that I felt bad for interrupting the conversations of climbers. Otherwise, super!
Yulia Zi - May 13, 2018 11:25 am Date Climbed: May 7, 2018
Smooth climb with Timerline Mountain Guides (South Side)
Elliot from Timberline Mountain Guides was an excellent guide: knowledge and attitude wise. We were a group of three women who met last year climbing Mt.Rainier.
We enjoyed learning to short-rope and were blessed with the perfect conditions. I was wearing my Ice Climbing booth Scarpa Mont Blanc and did not get cold at all.
Thank you, Mt.Hood. Now I will be returning all of your routes unguided with the proper team.
oregonrpa - May 9, 2018 10:51 am Date Climbed: May 7, 2018
Pearly Gates
4 hour summit from Timberline in perfect conditions. We arrived at the Hogsback with no other climbers ahead of us and then decided to take the Pearly Gates route. The Hogsback lined up well leading to base of the gates. Bergschrund starting to widen (less than 12 inches where we crossed). Route to summit was in great shape up the Hogsback and left side Pearly Gates.
Lenny72 - Jun 30, 2019 12:34 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2019
Awesome ClimbWoke up at midnight on the 23rd to no visibility and high wind so waited until the morning of the 24th. Conditions were still windy but clear and cold. Ascended from Timberline Lodge up the South Side via the Old Chute and descended the same way. The view from the summit was amazing.
bluecappo - Jun 18, 2019 12:17 pm Date Climbed: May 13, 2016
Pearly GatesStoked to finally make it up this busy mountain. Took some time to get used to hiking near groomers at night - not your typical NW ascent. Was also the windiest climb I've experienced; I now typically throw in a set of ski goggles with my gear because of this climb.
chrisc - May 15, 2019 3:56 pm Date Climbed: May 9, 2019
Reid Headwall Summit!Summited May 2019. Full trip report here!
Xander Culver - May 12, 2019 11:31 pm Date Climbed: May 11, 2019
Oh Yeah!So good!
LarryEnglish - May 11, 2019 12:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 1963
Timberline Lodge, HogsbackWith fellow UO grad students Frank and Doug. Started 4:00 AM, summit 8:00 AM, first there. Walked the ridge until the clouds cleared and we could see down the other side. Not sure of date but a Friday in July, '63.
chrisc - May 3, 2019 4:05 pm Date Climbed: May 3, 2019
North Face Summit!Summited May 2019. Full trip report here!
Liba Kopeckova - Apr 30, 2019 8:16 am Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2019
nice and quick hike upStarted from Timberline Lodge and summited just at beautiful sunrise. The hike/climb went easier and faster than expected. No ropes needed.
theoglick - Apr 7, 2019 8:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2017
Solo climb, standard south side routeA beautiful day for climbing, and Hood was a bucket-lister for me, so I was very stoked to finally get up there. Up and down the Old Chute, and enjoyed 20 minutes of solitude on the summit.
travel_murse - Mar 20, 2019 2:12 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2019
HogsbackSeeing the perfect triangle mountain shadow made me question reality.
billydheyhey - Nov 19, 2018 7:20 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2017
HP #21!All snow, minimal trees, with a slight scent of sulfur on this volcano..
Saw sunrise at the top though, with the shadow of the mountain across the wilderness, which was unbelievable.
kronshage3 - Jul 22, 2018 12:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2018
Via Old ChuteAwesome day on Hood. All sun with a little breeze at the top. Probably around 12 people that made summit today, pretty small for a weekend (but I guess it is late season). The bergschrund is enormous. It could probably swallow up every skier at the resort and still have room. The Pearly Gates really did not look reasonable to climb. Old Chute is in good condition except for the small crevasse right below it. It was completely dark when I was at the Hogsback, so I made my best judgement with what I could see. You could probably go even further to the left of Old Chute for some even better conditions. Rock fall and ice fall was not bad along the route. I heard a TON of rockfall off route though, kinda closer to the Steel Cliff area. Look out for the other small crevasses in the area. You won't fall in, but you could very well get half of your body jammed in if you misstep.
Tristanh - Jul 16, 2018 9:46 pm Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2018
Summer south side ascent and dilemma on Pearly Gates vs. Old Chutes route to summitWe had beautiful weather and stable late season conditions for a successful summit attempt on Mt Hood via the left alternative Pearly Gate approach (continue reading for more info and see link for at bottom).
We were a team of two and knew that the window is closing fast on summiting safely due to increased risks with rock/snow fall on the higher parts of the mountain. We decided to go up mid-week to avoid crowds and associated risks. We arrived at the Timberline lodge car park late afternoon and hiked up to camp on the right side of the top of Palmer chair lift/ski area. We woke up at 1:30am and left by 2:30am to get a head start on the summit as we planned to be on the way down from summit and below Pearly Gates well before 8am when sun starts to warm
up the mountain and increase chances of rock/ice fall.
We got Crater Rock and at base of Hogsback just as daylight was breaking. We met two other climbers (cousins from from Beaverton, OR) and we were reviewing conditions and options on which approach to take to the summit (Pearly Gates vs Old Chutes). We had printed several images and maps of the Southside of the mountain which helped review options. The Bergschrund ‘crevasse’ was quite wide above the Pearly Gates but there was still a small section on the right side against mountain which was unaffected and could be traversed safely. With the increase in temperature this summer, the Bergschrund will most likely soon cut all the way across to the right making the Pearly Gates approach inaccessible and very dangerous.
We started going up the main Pearly Gate (on the right) but eventually found out that the last section was too steep and icy at this time of the season and would have been extremely difficult and dangerous on the way down (despite being well equipped).
We descended slightly and instead took the left Pearly Gate alternative which wasn’t as steep, icy and felt much safer.
We then made it to the summit shortly after 6am after a short walk on the right side.
We spent 10min enjoying the incredible views of the other major cascade volcanoes and made our way down swiftly without stopping until we were under the Crater Rock and in a safer part of the mountain.
The other climbers we met eventually went up the Old Chute and so did another group of 4 we saw. They however took quite a while to come down and around the Bergschrund onto the Hogsback. There are pros/cons to either approach which you can read about online.
Here is a quick video of our adventure: https://youtu.be/4QdriymUuIU
Kristalea - Jun 18, 2018 1:03 pm Date Climbed: May 7, 2018
Highpoint #21 Via Hogsback/Pearly GatesOne of my favorite climbs! We had a clear day and a view of the mountains' morning shadow. It was beautiful seeing Rainier from the summit and I loved the rock formations around Devils Kitchen. We didn't have to wait too long at the Pearly Gates.
tcingrum - Jun 17, 2018 12:05 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2016
PearliesStayed cool for firm snowpack. All perspiration turned to frost up top. Bit of a bottleneck in the chute. Good day overall.
kevinsa - Jun 16, 2018 11:35 am Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2018
Mt. HoodTook the left variation on the Pearly Gates as the right side had a short section of water ice that did not look appealing. Left side also required some step cutting to safely ascend. The mountain clouded over as soon as we summited. Glad we had GPS to get us back to 8000’ as visibility was very poor. Seven hours car-to-car.
WayneFry - Jun 15, 2018 2:44 pm Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2018
Mazama ChuteWe base camped at Illumination saddle with the intent of climbing the Leuthold couloir the next day. We discovered the route was melted out and chose to climb the Mazama chute. Fun climb on a cold sunny day.
justinveenhuis@gmail.com - Jun 5, 2018 5:07 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2018
South Side RoutePlanned to stay at 9,000' with a weather forcast at the summit of 10mph wind, low of 37 and 0 precip. Stated blowing sustained 35 and alternating tiny sharp hail and rain at 8,500'. Waited an hour before turning back. It was a real bummer, second year coming from Michigan for this mountain just to get onit and be shut down by weather. Glad we did, there were a couple incidents later in that storm.
larch32 - Jun 4, 2018 10:43 pm Date Climbed: May 1, 2016
A break from Smith RockIt was so icy and loud skiing down that I felt bad for interrupting the conversations of climbers. Otherwise, super!
Yulia Zi - May 13, 2018 11:25 am Date Climbed: May 7, 2018
Smooth climb with Timerline Mountain Guides (South Side)Elliot from Timberline Mountain Guides was an excellent guide: knowledge and attitude wise. We were a group of three women who met last year climbing Mt.Rainier.
We enjoyed learning to short-rope and were blessed with the perfect conditions. I was wearing my Ice Climbing booth Scarpa Mont Blanc and did not get cold at all.
Thank you, Mt.Hood. Now I will be returning all of your routes unguided with the proper team.
oregonrpa - May 9, 2018 10:51 am Date Climbed: May 7, 2018
Pearly Gates4 hour summit from Timberline in perfect conditions. We arrived at the Hogsback with no other climbers ahead of us and then decided to take the Pearly Gates route. The Hogsback lined up well leading to base of the gates. Bergschrund starting to widen (less than 12 inches where we crossed). Route to summit was in great shape up the Hogsback and left side Pearly Gates.