On the third try, finally the summit is attained! It took 1.5 hours from the Hogsback to the summit due to multiple parties climbing and descending above the schrung. (see my image) We were three wide in the narrowest part, one guide even crossed his teams ropes with another party on the steepest part(yikes!) We descended the Old crater variation back to the Hogsback, reccomend more parties use this alternate route (up and down), snow/ice was perfect for ice axe plant and crampon grip. Fully slushed out on the way down, leave earlier thatn 4 Am next time.
A very gracious SPer, Don Nelsen, helped me fulfill a dream of two years. Left parking lot at 3:30 and ascended in white-out conditions almost all of the way. The ascent through the Pearly Gates was extremely steep, but the snow was perfect. Softer snow during the descent made for some slower going, but weather cleared near the Hot Rocks and we reached our waiting car 13.5 hours after heading out. An awesome mountain, she is.
A great climb, we had perfect weather.
Climbed with the Late Luke Casady [r.i.p.] and his darling wife Calyn Casady up the steep Reid Glacier Headwall, we were off route we meant to be on the Leuthold Couloir, but turned too soon in white out conditions and persisted to the summit. We descended the south side. It took 4 attempts for me to make the summit, all on the N. side 1] Sunshine Glacier 2] Reid Glacier var. 3] Reid Glacier. This mountain Kicked my Butt!
First big climb of the year! THE FIRST TIME SUMMITING HOOD YA HOO! I was not in the best shape, shame on me. I am extremely happy never the less. It was everything I fantasised it would be Rime,cornices,crevasse and awesome views. I found the fumeroles to be the worst I have smelled on any volcano.
We climbed the southside/hogback route. I took a friend who accomplished his first bigger mountain. Congrats to Dave! The bergshurund was wide open after 3 days of 90 degree weather in Portland ... in May! The only passage was to the right between that and another opening just below it. We decided to climb through the old chute at the top instead of making the traverse to the pearly gates. It was a nice little variation on the route. We had the summit to ourself on a cloudless warm day. We did not spend much time up there as the sun was warming the snow fast and ice/rocks began breaking off and pelting climbers in the chute and above the berg. Lots of people turned around at the hogsback, not wanting to negotiate the berg after they had a look. It was a beautiful day and another fun climb on Hood.
via South side; perfectly clear and warm out with freezing level at something like 14000 feet when we started at Timberline at 1:30am. After sunrise snow was very soft. Snow bridge is there but definitely unsafe, so everyone was going around the berg. Group that went around left side seemed to have a very difficult time and had to turn around, so we went around the right side. On the way back down some of us successfully belayed across its narrowest end, but one of us fell in (me) [on belay, thankfully]. :) Good times and GREAT views. check out my pictures
Great snow. Windy until reaching the summit.
This was my second summit of Hood. We left the car at 3:00am and hit the summit at 8:00am. We were back to the car by 11:00am. The Berg only had a small bridge in the middle. One person at a time with other people a safe distance not to load with weight. It should be completely open within the next couple of days especially with the recent heat wave. ZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
Worked all day and drove down from Seattle. Climbed the mountain and drove all the way back to Seattle next day.
But fun climb and finally doing a route on Hood besides the HogsBack.
Excellent weather with views for miles from the top. The snow was nicely packed and the bergshrund was no problem. I started at 5am, and got back at 2pm. More on my website.
Nice 7th summit on Hood. Classic morning on the mountain. Jeff and I left the car at 4:30am and took it easy all the way up, summitting at 9:00am. The weather was ideal, the snow perfect and the 'schrund is still far off on either side. It is fine if you stay right on the Hogsback... that said, be careful.
We a great day for my second summit on this mountain. It was clear and very windy at the start around 2:30am, and a few teams turned around. We pushed through knowing an improving trend was on the way and shared the top with only two other climbers. The ice through the Pearly Gates was great for climbing up and down between 8-8:30am, and we were able to glissade from below Crater rock to around 6500'.
Went up the Hogsback route, in the most beautiful weather imaginable. Not a single cloud, and nearly wind less at the summit. The Hogsback seemed very steep in some sections, and almost even a small section that is nearly vertical. The traverse to the normal "gates" is a little exposed, but managable. I opted for the "chute" instead. These is a small hole in the Bergschrund, but the snow bridge was quite stable, as many climbers where crossing it this day.
Alhough, later in the day, the snow seemed to turn into the consistency of a slurpee. Go early, we had lots of firm snow and ice...
Beware the bergschrund! It's covered by a very weak snowbridge at the moment. Someone actually broke through and fell in yesterday! Fortunately, they were OK and rescued by another climbing party. The bergie will be very dangerous for the next several days/weeks until the snowbridge melts out. Until then, pay very close attention to where you step and consider roping up.
Other than that, conditions on the upper mountain are superb. There a staircase up the hogsback and through the Pearly Gates. (Actually, the route currently goes through the left chute, not the normal right 'Gates').
Thanks to my patient climbing partner, Scott Towsey, who put up with me laying down for extended periods of time several times on the way up due to my lack of proper rest over the previous 4 days. A firm tug on the rope from him usually was all it took to get me going again.
This was my first "real" snow climb. Climbed with my friend and climbing partner brettwilli along with our guide, Joe. The fumaroles were pretty cool, yet a little intimidating knowing I could end up in one if I screwed up. Jumped the Shrund, that was a bit scary but cool at the same time. Had a great time!!
A+ for accessibility coming from the Portland area. Easy grab in one day's time but it has some pitfalls along the way!