via South side; perfectly clear and warm out with freezing level at something like 14000 feet when we started at Timberline at 1:30am. After sunrise snow was very soft. Snow bridge is there but definitely unsafe, so everyone was going around the berg. Group that went around left side seemed to have a very difficult time and had to turn around, so we went around the right side. On the way back down some of us successfully belayed across its narrowest end, but one of us fell in (me) [on belay, thankfully]. :) Good times and GREAT views. check out my pictures
Great snow. Windy until reaching the summit.
This was my second summit of Hood. We left the car at 3:00am and hit the summit at 8:00am. We were back to the car by 11:00am. The Berg only had a small bridge in the middle. One person at a time with other people a safe distance not to load with weight. It should be completely open within the next couple of days especially with the recent heat wave. ZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
Worked all day and drove down from Seattle. Climbed the mountain and drove all the way back to Seattle next day.
But fun climb and finally doing a route on Hood besides the HogsBack.
Excellent weather with views for miles from the top. The snow was nicely packed and the bergshrund was no problem. I started at 5am, and got back at 2pm. More on my website.
Nice 7th summit on Hood. Classic morning on the mountain. Jeff and I left the car at 4:30am and took it easy all the way up, summitting at 9:00am. The weather was ideal, the snow perfect and the 'schrund is still far off on either side. It is fine if you stay right on the Hogsback... that said, be careful.
We a great day for my second summit on this mountain. It was clear and very windy at the start around 2:30am, and a few teams turned around. We pushed through knowing an improving trend was on the way and shared the top with only two other climbers. The ice through the Pearly Gates was great for climbing up and down between 8-8:30am, and we were able to glissade from below Crater rock to around 6500'.
Went up the Hogsback route, in the most beautiful weather imaginable. Not a single cloud, and nearly wind less at the summit. The Hogsback seemed very steep in some sections, and almost even a small section that is nearly vertical. The traverse to the normal "gates" is a little exposed, but managable. I opted for the "chute" instead. These is a small hole in the Bergschrund, but the snow bridge was quite stable, as many climbers where crossing it this day.
Alhough, later in the day, the snow seemed to turn into the consistency of a slurpee. Go early, we had lots of firm snow and ice...
Beware the bergschrund! It's covered by a very weak snowbridge at the moment. Someone actually broke through and fell in yesterday! Fortunately, they were OK and rescued by another climbing party. The bergie will be very dangerous for the next several days/weeks until the snowbridge melts out. Until then, pay very close attention to where you step and consider roping up.
Other than that, conditions on the upper mountain are superb. There a staircase up the hogsback and through the Pearly Gates. (Actually, the route currently goes through the left chute, not the normal right 'Gates').
Thanks to my patient climbing partner, Scott Towsey, who put up with me laying down for extended periods of time several times on the way up due to my lack of proper rest over the previous 4 days. A firm tug on the rope from him usually was all it took to get me going again.
This was my first "real" snow climb. Climbed with my friend and climbing partner brettwilli along with our guide, Joe. The fumaroles were pretty cool, yet a little intimidating knowing I could end up in one if I screwed up. Jumped the Shrund, that was a bit scary but cool at the same time. Had a great time!!
A+ for accessibility coming from the Portland area. Easy grab in one day's time but it has some pitfalls along the way!
Great climb with Matt G., Kim W., Buddy A.
Almost didn't leave the car it was so windy and cold on the 18th. Ended up skinning up to the top of Palmer and set up camp with my partners. I just got back from Denali this May/June and with the exception of high camp I have never camped in colder weather. It nearly touched -10 at 8,600 feet and there was wind. The next day we got a late start and finished off the south route. The shrund is totally filled, no need to rope up. After breaking camp I got some sweet turns in on the way back to Timberline.
Nice Mountain !!!
a great winter ascent with a great pair of partners. nothing is like the alpine experience. this one reminded me of the reasons why I started doing this. beauty that cannot be described in words, comradarie among friends, and the mental test of one's self made this my best summit. my thanks to foreverwild and Kevin Cannon, you guys are awesome.
Ideal conditions. Nice consolidated snowpack, low avalanche conditions. Stinky at the top!
Skied from Timberline at 7:15AM, very cold (10 degrees?). Roped up in a team of two at Illumination Saddle and protected with vertical pickets from below Hourglass to Summit. Four experienced buddies soloed the route ahead of us without any problems. Excellent conditions, relatively warm when in sun, little ice/rock fall. 10 hrs round trip. Check link below for climb photos:
2006-02-19 - Climb - Mt Hood - Leuthold Colouir
Great winter ascent with Madmallard and Kevin Cannon, one of my favorite climbs.