It started out to be a beautiful day, clear skies, and cool temps. An uneventful climb other than loosing one of our 7-person team to illness at the Palmer ledge. We talked to many down climbers, gathering beta about the most desirable route near the top. We were told that there was about a 50% turnaround rate at the Pearly Gates do to a 15’ solid water ice section. Some were using rope, and some weren’t. We were also told that it would be best to go the old chute route because of the traffic jam at the icy Pearly Gates.
We dropped our packs at the Hogsback, climbed to the left entrance of the Pearly Gates and inspected the crux of the route. We decide to go for it with no ropes. The reports were right. It was a 15’-20’ section of solid water ice, although with all the recent climbers, there were nice deep step pockets carved for an easy climb through. Down climbing this route was a bit hairy, but with a little confidence and a good pick hold, it wasn’t too bad.
Once at the summit we saw the weather system moving in so we skipped lunch and headed for the bar…I mean car…
after reaching the summit we hiked down to our skis which were just above the highest lift on the mountain then skied down toward the parking lot.
5 Apr 2007 - South Side Old Chute Variation
Climbed from Timberline leaving at six. Was able to skin up to below Crater Rock before it got too icy. Booted the rest of the way up to the Hogsback. Started up the Hogsback but ended up following a guided group's steps (pingzingr?) up the Old Chute. Reached the summit after 3.5hrs. I left the skins on to traverse to the top of the Old Chute, and had to sidestep down ~30' of some icy sastrugi before hitting the snow which was perfect down to Crater Rock. It was extremely icy down to the Palmer lift, then I got fresh tracks on the groomers down to the lodge since the lift wasn't operating yet! 4.5hrs RT.
28 Apr 2007 - Sandy Glacier Headwall
Didn't leave the parking lot until 3:10am, but made quick time up to Inspiration Saddle. Skied down the Reid Glacier to ~7400' to cross below Yocum Ridge. Roped up for the Sandy Glacier and experienced slow postholing all the way up to and including the headwall. We could only manage ~500'/hr in the conditions. We simulclimbed the route using pickets a couple times, and I placed two ice screws to protect the Hourglass. It became very windy as we got higher, and there was considerable amounts of small ice falling on the route, especially in the Hourglass. We reached the summit after 12.5hrs and skied down in another leisurely 1.5hrs. Too warm to do this route, but having skis saved a lot of time.
26 Jun 2011 - Reid Headwall/Wy'East Route
Left Timberline at 5 with the intention of climbing Leuthold Couloir and skiing it. Had no trouble crossing the Reid - a few crevasses and lots of avy debris. I ended up going up the leftmost of the Reid Headwall Routes (I think), and eventually reached a ridge overlooking the crater, right before the ridge gets craggy. That was fortunate, because it was easy to traverse to the normal route which I took the rest of the way to the summit. I skied down the Wy'East Route. It was a little late (~10:30) for descending the east facing snow, but since the route mostly traverses I could avoid any large sloughs building up. Some steep turns in the entrance couloir let to a longish traverse to a final exit chute which was only a ski-length wide. Side-stepped down this and then ran over to the top of the Wy'East Face. Great skiing there, until I had to bend it around to Timberline. Managed to make it to the top of Palmer without having to take off the skis, then great groomers back to the car! Interesting tour of the Mount Hood Crater!
1 Jul 2011 - Upper Cooper Spur from Mt. Hood Meadows
Left the main ski area (park outside the gate) at 3:20 am and wound my way up through the trails trying to stay on snow. Traversed easily across the Newton-Clark Glacier (some rockfall though) to the spur some distance above Tie-in Rock. Slow progress from there because of soft snow that hadn't frozen the night before - collapsing footholds. Reached the summit at 9:30 or so, and skied down around 10. Pretty exposed at the top, but easy skiing. Knocked a lot of slough down on the main face, but good steep skiing. Crevasses and rockfall more apparent on the exit across the Newton-Clark, but still safe and easy. Skied snow all the way back to the Meadows Base area.
Fisher and I had a great weather window with blue-bird skies. It was a great climb and a fun ski down!
went with a guide service. Had a nice trip up the Old Chute. Pretty mushy on the way down.
How do you feel when you have only 3 HP left to finish your quest... Well, you get the best amunition you can... Blue;
Thanks a lot for the company......
Solo hike Icy but fun.
Took a day to head down to Oregon and climb it during stunning conditions. Windy in the morning and evening, but calm while we were on top. Took the Old Chute variation.
Climbed from the Timberline Lodge in a "conga line" with very high winds. Still fun though.
Complete whiteout at the summit, but otherwise a great climb.
First mountain I climbed that required ice ax, crampons, etc. Great experience.
tried the sunshine rte twice. first time my bud got poison oak outbreak and we turned had to turn around 500ft short, then he got us lost in a white out. We couldn't agree which way was the right way and he was persistent so we went his way...1000 ft down the wrong way. so we climbed back up and went my way and got to camp. the 2nd try we did from the car and made it with no problems.
Weather reports were a bit dubious with regards to the wind but I decided to make the long drive anyway and give it a shot. The weather and route conditions turned out to be quite proper. Climbed via the old chute with my brother. First time on hood for both of us. Only saw 5 other climbers all day, had the entire upper mtn to ourselves.
Definitely a fun route. We watched 'The Shining' at the lodge before our 1 am start. The pearly gates were completely dry and we went up the left chute. Wish I had my skis for the ride down.
starry midnight start....sunrise summit. great people, great cause, great day
Why didn't I bring my board?!!!!
I left the car at 1:00 AM knowing that bad weather was comeing in, I packed light to try and beat it, but it caught up with me right as I reached the hogsback. Zero visibility and screaming west winds sent me back cold and dissapointed, I reached the car just before 6:00 AM.
It was still a great experience, I was the only person on the mountain (or at least on the south side of the mountain), and the full moon made for good scenery.
The sun rising in the early morning provided an encredible shadow of the volcano on the horizen as we walked up the scree along the groomed slopes. The boot pack to the top was chill, no need to rope up. We missed our skis on the way down even though conditions were poor. But, it's always fun to glissade.
Great climb via hogsback
This was the first mountain of any type that I attempted to climb and that was probably a mistake. I was 15 and a sophomore in high school in the spring of 1976. The climb up was pretty uneventful until we reached the area around Crater Rock. I became spooked by the exposure there and was dreading what I'd find nearer the summit. At the base of the Hogsback, we took a break and prepared to rope up for the final push to the summit. The summit was obscured by clouds and I (and a few others in our group) used this as an excuse to stay there and wait while the rest of the group went on. The clouds cleared off about the time the group reached the summit and I immediately regretted my decision. 30 years later I am still kicking myself for blowing that opportunity.