First Mountain climb, Great views. Summited via Old Chute.
Our plan was to climb June 7th, but a pretty heavy storm was passing through with snow and winds up 75mph. We decided to start climbing and see if the storm passed, which the forcast predicted, but at 7600 feet, with goggles freezing over and winds still averaging 35 mph keeping the snow blowing sideways, we turned back. The next morning we started climbing at 1am without a single cloud in the sky and a slight breeze. We were above Palmer lift with the sky just begining to get light when we saw the first groups start to come down. They said the snowpack above hogsback was very unstable and turned back at that point. So we went up to hogsback and enjoyed the gorgeous views and the perfect weather. A few people risked going up to the top, but it wasn't worth the risk to us.
we summitted despite the whiteout. One mistake was I packed for summer climb, not snow climb. I would recommend goggles, neck gaiter, spare gloves, etc.
The Old Chute was crowded, so we traversed over to the West Ridge for some spicy exposure. Amazing weather and conditions.
nellis and i climbed an icy chute just left of the pearly gates. it was a fun challenge at 50/50+ degrees with several turns which left us wondering if we'd top out or get closed in. nice route! name?
Left Timberline parking lot at Midnight. Climbed under starry skies and on good snow for climbing. Reached the summit about 5:30 AM with son Ryan, and friends Ed, Dawn, and Doug. Beautiful views from the summit. HP#33.
Tried to Hogsback route, got up to the pearly gates but they wernt looking very nice so we looked at the old chute variation. However the sun hit the ice above and it was way too warm so we bailed.
Climbed as far as the hogsback, but couldn't summit since it had shifted west away from the Pearly Gates (see photo). Still a great climg with my son Patrick, in the bright moonlight and early morning sunshine. Great views. A fun day.
Climbed solo from Hogsback to Old Chute then to summit. Great temps, no wind, great early snow but got soft in late AM. Moderate traffic. An enjoyable, moderate, straightforward route. No ropes needed if you don't mind some slight exposure on the ridge (very moderate).
Camped out above Palmer the night before and awoke to a perfect day! Took the skis and board to just below crater rock, then enjoyed a nice boot pack up the hogsback (headed left off the hogsback) The climb was done with two of my best friends (The Vandervorts) and countless others, great mountain.
The weather was perfect and the fumaroles were potent. The trek seemed much longer than anticipated. Once the sun came out, the snow softened up rather quickly. Beautiful scenery and many good conversations with other travelers. Then went back solo on June 15, to give my dad a special "Fathers Day" message from the summit.
Our team of 3 were the first to summit this spring. Left Timberline at 2:30 by full moon. It was a chore to break trail over the hogsback and the gates were icy; it took some to navigate both up and down, in the shade and cold wind. Up top, only a light wind and lots of sun.
6/11/07 - First attempt failed due to pouring rain. Second attempt the following day started in a snowstorm, but we climbed above the clouds and it was a beautiful day. Pearly Gates area was covered in water ice and we were lucky to have an ice climber with us. Used rope and ice screws. Had the summit to ourselves and only saw a few other people all day.
5/1/16 - Windy as hell, luckily upper portion of route was mostly sheltered. Gates were alpine ice. My first time downclimbing ice (unroped), thankfully I had a 2nd tool along because my mountaineering axe was useless. 6 1/2 hours round trip.
We took the standard route up from Timberline Lodge. We camped up above the lifts to avoid the congestion the next morning but still stood in line to get to the summit. A popular but spectacular peak.
Old Crater Variation
I broke my own rule. We arrived later than expected this year and didn't summit until 10. Many groups left before us due to ice fall which improved as the Sun warmed the upper slopes . Not what I expected. We enjoyed an empty summit on a perfect day.
Early season conditions. The weather was perfect! Chunky loose ice from Palmer to Crater Rock turning to the soft stuff all the way to nearly the summit. The hogsback is way left again this year. The Pearly Gate chutes look technical and slow, so I think the Old Chute Variation will be the standard south side route for a while. We didn't use a rope, but I could have used a second tool.
WARMUP FOR LVMC CLIMB OF RANIER ON THE 28TH. CLIMBED FROM THE TIMBERLINE LODGE PARKING LOT UP THE HOGSBACK ROUTE WITH ALAN NAKASHIMA AND HOWARD HERNDON OF LAS VEGAS
Climb the hogsback. Very icy. Heard all sort of rock fall. Cloudy day and not much of a view.
Not much to see with the bad weather. A couple of peeks of the sun offered a nice view here and there though.
Made good time to the Hogsback a little after dawn, but turned back because of deteriorating weather.