3,5 hours from Timberline up and 2 hours down. Weather was superb, sunny and no wind, and clouds only up to Timberline, so only Adams and the rest of the volcanoes were visible. Soloed old chute, where there were nice steps. Started at 2 am.
I took Timberline extending my spring pass for a few weeks to be a sign that I was meant to ride lifts up to 8600 feet... Summited around 11:30 and snowboarded down the west face of the crater. Really fun trip.
Climbed a variation of the Hogsback route through the Pearly Gates. It involved 1 pitch of AI2. Well worth doing to avoid the Saturday crowd.
Great Snow... good bit of traffic, but still very enjoyable.
Summitted yesterday a bit before 5:30 a.m. on the SS Hogsback route. We were the first ones up there, other than a solo climber. Definitely not the last, though—we counted 75 people at one point!
Most people were taking the main Old Chute route. We headed left from the Hogsback and hugged the cliffs, taking the 2 o'clock (first, climber's rightmost) couloir to the summit ridge. I probably wouldn't recommend that, though, due to risk of ice/rockfall.
Not much ice was falling when we went up, other than small, harmless crystals, but we were up there early. We crossed a couple places were there was a constant flow of small ice crystals coming down.
Safest route right now is to head left (west) immediately after reaching the top of the Hogsback, then cross the bare rock near the fumaroles, then up the Old Chute. That will keep you out of the way of most ice/rockfall.
Three people were injured and two took major slides on consecutive days on this weekend. Two of the three made the paper as airlift rescues and the last one walked away from the Hogsback under his own power.
One person was hit by falling ice suffered substantial leg injuries rendering her incapable of walking away from the Cathedral Rock area. Another guy slipped, shot 500 ft out of the Devil's Kitchen, and sustained serious facial, wrist, and leg injuries. Lastly a climber, just five minutes behind me was knocked off his feet by a careening dinner plate and slid, unharmed, 200 ft back down to the start of the Hogsback. Witnessing this incident occur, 14 climbers turned around to descend.
Without knowing that such drama was happening, I witnessed an ice wheel go zinging down the mountain just meters away, and then, seconds later, took a baseball size chunk of ice in the chin and mouth, thinking it broke several of my front teeth. I (literally) poured on the speed to get up and out of the gully to reach the safety of the summit ridge.
The summit was amazing, not a cloud in the sky. All the big Cascades were visible, including Shasta!! To top it all off, I had good cell coverage and called my wife back in Juneau with a wake up call.
On the descent, I moved quick to get down without incident. I descended the Old Chute in a face first clipity clop and literally ran the traverse to reach the Hogsback without incident.
We started at 2:00am from Illumination Saddle and descended Reid Glacier then up and over Yokum at around 7800 ft. Went up the headwall while attempting to dodge ice and summited around 10am.
Climbed solo on my birthday. 2 hours 15 minutes from Timberline. Skied old chute and made it to Seattle by noon.
Done deal. But I will go back many more times. What a beautiful climb! See both on April and May TR's
Climbed with Timberline Mountain Guides. Summited at 6 am in a cloudbank. I have heard that the view is great.
Craig and Greg and I set out at 10pm and made it to the Hogsback by 4am. Craig having been on the summit twice was fully prepared to continue on. Greg and I dizzy from altitude sickness and sulfur dioxide fumes decided to turn around. I thought we could probably make it up the chute in our condition but it would have been an unnecessary risk coming down.
UPDATE: My second attempt was successful via the Leuthold Couloir, December 4th, 2011
Very nice conditions (clear, warm, mild wind an not as crowded as other times I've been). The Pearly Gats are still iced up; the Old Chute route that is stomped out went a little bit West of where I remember, making a bit of an exposed stretch to the true summit. The (half) moon when it first rose was so orange, it looked like mars.
Partner Tony and I did the normal route. Fairly straightforward.
Good time all around.
Barely got to the summit before being chased back down by a storm. Great intro on glacier climbs. Climbed with WoundedKnee and Timberline.
Two friends and I set out to climb 3 peaks in one week. Mt Hood, the first, we used to warm up for Mt. Adams. the first day we climbed up to the Devils Kitchen,(p.u. sulpher) set up camp and reviewed rescues. In the morning we got up to make a short climb to the summit. Beautiful clear weather. We could see 200 miles in each direction. Climbing down sucked seeing all those skiers, and I didn't have my skis. Onto Mt. Adams
Two of my French business colleagues Joel and Luc climbed up from timberline lodge early afternoon on Saturday and camped out about a 1/4 mile or so above the top of the upper ski lift. Really nice weather and an enjoyable evening apart from the sound of the ski slope grooming equipment backup alarms active until almost midnight.
We were up with the crunch, crunch, crunch of other climbers walking past our tents and heading toward the summit. Very busy morning as we climbed above the bergschrund and through Pearly Gates ice chute. The number of people, and poor climbing techniques would have made this really dangerous if not for the fairly soft snow conditions. My friend Luc, a very experienced French mountaineer, couldn’t contain himself with 3 groups, asking “do you guys know what you are doing?” These dangerous climbing practices taking place just a few weeks after the multiple fatalities in exactly the same place.
We reached the summit at first light providing a truly amazing site. On the summit was a very intricate snow cave complete with a window out the steep North Slope.
Are decent was marred with more questionable climbing parties including a group of 3 roped together equality dividing a 60 meter rope with the climber in the middle. We took our time on the descent enjoying the spectacular setting.
This is a really great summit; however it was sobering to think of the three deaths as we passed the 'shrund just a few weeks before.
Solo climb in 9 hours roundtrip after frustrating attempt on Rainier. Winter wonderland!
This is the easiest way to the summit when the Hogsback moves too far left of the Pearly Gates.
We climbed through the fumaroles to avoid ice falling across the standard traverse on a warm day.
A 2am start in snowy conditions turned into a full on blizzard at 4am. Four of us skied down at 6am (from 9,100ft) without regret. The other four continued and eventually broke through the clouds at the Hogs-back (swine-spine). Steep ice with wind-packed snow over it created avalanche danger so they turned around 300ft short of the summit. Fun trip though.
Hog's back, Pearly Gates, very exciting and beautiful.