Mount Hood Climber's Log

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Rob Ricks

Rob Ricks - Aug 23, 2004 8:43 pm

Route Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: April 23, 2004  Sucess!

Went with Timberline Mountain Guides on my first trip up Hood. Unusually good weather for climbing in April. Not a lot of people on the mountain, but they all populated the Hogsback at the same time so there was a nice little gathering of rope teams all trying to get to the Pearly Gates. Snow Bridge well intact. Minor ice and rockfall at the gates. Made the crowded summit at 7:30 a.m. Descent went well until midmorning when we began postholing. Back in time for lunch. Beautiful day all the way around.


ungerfeld - Aug 9, 2004 6:51 pm

Date Climbed: April 11, 2004  Sucess!

Good and enjoyable experience. Climb guided by Eric Chalumeau from Timberline Mountain Guides, very competent and professional.


lostman - Aug 3, 2004 4:32 pm

Route Climbed: South Side (Hogsback) Date Climbed: July 22, 2004  Sucess!

Perfect weather and snow conditions, despite a 90 degree day in Portland. Pearly Gates were melted out so we veered west as the Bergschrund and took another chute further west. A bit longer, Steeper terrain (40 degrees), and a some crumbly Class 3 rock at the top of the chute made for a more exciting finish than we expected. Probably the last weekend of decent conditions, but seeing the gaping 'Schrund upclose and stepping over some tiny crevasses on the Coalman Glacier higher up made it definitely worth visiting late season.

Andrew McKenzie

Andrew McKenzie - Jul 14, 2004 1:01 am

Route Climbed: South Slope Date Climbed: August 10, 2003  Sucess!

This was a great mountain to climb on short notice. We got to Timberline lodge around 12:30 a.m. and quickly made our way up the mountain. Crampons required to walk on the icy ski runs at this time of day. Once above the ski hill the hiking became mixed, with frequent scree patches making consistant crampon use a pain. Fog over the top of the mountain really lessened the thrill of summiting, but I do have to say, took all the exposure excitement out of the steep snow above the bershrund. Funny how you forget just where you are when you can only see about 50 feet in any given direction. Summit by 8:30 then a fairly quick desent thanks to slick pants and the heavy snow pack. A word of advice, I dont think the ski area likes it when climbers use the slopes to desend during hours of operation. Stay to the left side of the ski hill as you desend. Oh yeah, and the kids love to see a full grown man skidding on his ass at 20 mph down the side of the ski slope.! Cheers!


Bentley - Jul 10, 2004 8:25 pm

Route Climbed: Palmer Glacier/South Side Date Climbed: July 18, 2003  Sucess!

Bluebird day in the middle of the week--saw three other climbers and had the rest of the hill to ourselves!


Pawkala - Jul 2, 2004 12:12 am

Route Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: June 3,2004  Sucess!

This was the second time I have climbed Hood. First was a midnight climb from Timberline in June of 2002 with a summit at sunrise. Was a long experience due to my seemingly constant promblems with my crampons. The second time was June 3,2004. We got a climbers lift pass and left at 8am and arrived at the top of the ski area at 8:20. Had a perfect day with no wind and awesome snow conditions. Summited in about 3 hours. Had a great glasade down. I am glad I experienced the climb from the parkinglot but probably won't do it again. The chair ride made it so much nicer than the slog up the ski slope.


dkantola - Jun 28, 2004 1:52 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: June 28, 2004  Sucess!

I've been wondering how long it would take for me to do the South Side. So I headed up solo and took 3:53 to the summit, 25 minutes there, then 2:00 down. In the process I passed the twenty or so people ahead of me and reached the summit first in time for sunrise.


cluck - Jun 16, 2004 8:17 pm

Route Climbed: South Side -standard Date Climbed: 6/15/03  Sucess!

Went left of bergie and up a slope between two choss piles, then traversed right above the bergie to rejoin the hogsback. Although this is only a slight variation on the standard route, I've never done this or seen people doing this. Lots of rime on cliffs above made me nervous on traverse. Sun was on 'em by the time we were headed down and sooner of later those things are going to crash down, some large and hopefully not onto a climbing party.

chickenhawk34 - Jun 16, 2004 4:35 pm

Route Climbed: Southside(Hogsback) Date Climbed: April 16,2004  Sucess!

Due to significant memory challenges, I've done gone and forgotten my true summit date - but I'm sure I'm close. Due to some flatlander attitude problems, Our intrepid party of three made an two day "expidition" out of this one. Really lucky here because we summited in beautiful weather...

...but ever so late in the afternoon.. (3:00!)

Congratulations to Becky Kanya of Madison, WI. on her first summit!


Scott Wesemann

Scott Wesemann - Jun 10, 2004 1:18 am

Route Climbed: South side Date Climbed: 6/01 and 6/03

2001 we encountered a severe storm that stranded us at 8,500 in a ski shack. The storm raged for hours and we decided to head down, as the visibility low, the winds were high and the snow was falling hard.

2003 Cloud cap at 8,500. Storm below and sun above. The mountain was absolutely beautiful.


toclimbon - Jun 8, 2004 2:58 pm

Route Climbed: south Date Climbed: 6-7-04  Sucess!

Pretty dicey weather But, still managed to summit. Lots of soft snow above palmer to summit. Much work But, worth it!


koz - Jun 7, 2004 4:44 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: June 3, 2004  Sucess!

Phenomenal red sunrise from up top. Also saw the sky turn to daylight for some inexplicable reason on the way up -- found out the next day a meteorite had exploded high up. Glad to claim my 27th state highpoint.

Zzyzx - May 31, 2004 3:53 pm

Route Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: May 25, 2004  Sucess!

Beautiful morning. I started at 2:45 am from the lodge and summited at 7:15. More of a hike than a climb as the only fairly steep section is above the hogsback. I really regreted not bringing my skis as hiking down along the ski run was really boring.

Jeff H - May 27, 2004 12:23 am

Route Climbed: South Side (Hogsback) Date Climbed: April 28th, 2004  Sucess!

Watched a beautiful sunrise while alone on the summit and was back in Portland in time for work by mid morning. Great way to start the day.


esugi - May 26, 2004 5:15 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: May 23, 2004

Tried for my second summit of this mountain.

We set out with full conditions at 2:30 am. There were 2-3" of fresh snow at timberline lodge. Driving snow at higher elevations with 6-12" of fresh snow. We made it to base of crater rock (approx. 9600 ft) but the weather showed no signs of improvement. We turned around due to poor visibility and concerns of avalanche up higher. Descended in whiteout using a compass. Talk about vertigo! Couldn't tell if I was going up or down!!

good experience climb eventhough we didn't make the summit.

modeboy - May 21, 2004 12:30 pm

Route Climbed: south side route Date Climbed: 5/20/2004  Sucess!

left the lodge around 6am. great weather until the hogsback. from then on clouds moved in and out the rest of the climb. summited at 10am and stayed long enough for something to eat and a few pics. little to no wind the whole time. the bergschrund has opened up a lot. several climbers were traversing around to the left, yet still were sinking in. suggest the mazama variation for the rest of the year.


cluck - May 18, 2004 9:14 pm

Route Climbed: South Side -standard Date Climbed: 5/16/04  Sucess!

Climber's beware.

Ran into a party who was doing a high traverse above Palmer snow field to get on Wyeast. Apparently, as they were headed East, not more than 50-100' off the right side of the boot pack leading straight up from the East side of the the top of the Palmer lift towards triangle moraine, the 1st climber fell 20-30', un-roped, into a hidden crevasse. He only hurt his ankle and his partner was able to drop him a rope and he climbed out with 2 tools and one good leg.

Today, other climbers were higher up on the mountain, near triangle moraine and a climber fell 50-60' into a crevasse that was very difficult to see, in an area that usually isn't crevassed this time of year. Apparently, there were several gaps that were just opening. Climber was rescued and flown to hospital to treat injuries.

Bottom line, even on the dog route, bad things can happen. Suggest folks doing the South side stay more towards the center of the snow field leading up to triangle morraine and pass the morraine on the West side, versus heading straight up. Ditto on descent. Pay attention to where you glissade/ski/plunge step and steer away from the East side of the snow field closest to White River canyon.

e.acar - May 16, 2004 11:33 am

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: May 15, 2004  Sucess!

Started to climb at 1:00 am and reached the summit at 7:30 am with Tom Wiemer and Bill Kelley. Got back at 11:00 am. Day started with stars then turned into white out before reaching the summit. At the summit cleared up with great views. On the way back again turned into white out from Hogsback to lodge.


jhalz - May 11, 2004 12:18 pm

Route Climbed: South Route Date Climbed: 5-10-2004  Sucess!

Started out with clear skies, no headlamps needed, moon was great. Had clear skies up to the Hogsback. Schrund is now open, we went right , I'd recommend left. Noticed some clouds moving in rapidly as we topped out of the Pearly Gates. Still sunny on the summit, with high winds. Didn't stick around long. As soon as we got back to the Hogsback we were in a whiteout. 4-5ft visibility made for an interesting descent. Route finding all the way to the lodge was fun.


IdahoClimber - May 5, 2004 5:54 pm

Route Climbed: South Highway Date Climbed: May 2, 2004  Sucess!

Left the parking lot at 4:30, were greated by a lenticular that was sitting at the top of ski lift. It lifted soon after and all that remained were about 100 other climbers. Snow was great and the skis were clear. Roundtripped it in 5 1/2 hours.

When the wind whipped up in the parking lot the night before the climb, it would kick up lots of dirt (Made for gritty teeth in the morning) would recommend a bivy or to sleep in a vehicle.

Spur looked great, wish I had the time/knowledge of the mountain to access that route.

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