Began the ascent under a clear sky @ 3am. Cached skis at Illumination Saddle, began the traverse to the base of the couloir. Roped to my partner, we had no problems up through the Hourglass. Boom---whiteout conditions almost instantaneously. Continued up as conditions got worse---we figured it was best to downclimb the Hogsback than the couloir. The traverse on the summit ridge was dicey to say the least, especially after I fell through a cornice! Luckily we set solid pro, and continued to the summit. Ran into a solo climber on the way down, and convinced him only a nut would continue up to the summit in white out conditions with snowfall. :-) He returned with us to Timberline Lodge. A 9 hour summit, but I'd never climb in that weather again. That's where statistics are made!
Left Timberline at midnight and summited around 6:30 with a party of 10. Had clear skies and fairly light winds. The last slope after the bergschrung was a lot nicer than the icy conditions I encountered in May last year.
I joined a party of six other climbers, Tim from St.Louis, Dave from Rapid City,SD, Mike and Al from Mass, Kent from Titusville, NJ, and Mike from Portland. Guided by Eric and Bob with Timberline Mountain Guides, we began our ascent (after taking the snow cat up to 8500 feet) at 2:30am. After making only two stops (I would have preferred a couple more)we summitted at 6:30am. Virtually no wind. Clear skies. Quite a beautiful mountain. We were soon joined at the top by an 80 year-old man from Las Vegas and his 46 year-old son along with another Timberline Mountain guide. Thought to be the oldest to have ever made the summit of Mt Hood. "
Anchorage, Alaska USA
Climbed the Devil's Kitchen Headwall solo, and had quite an experience. Read about it in this trip report.
Easy cruise on a beautiful day. Nice ski down.
Began climbing just after 4:30AM.
Good weather until about 9:00AM when winds picked up significantly. Gusts estimated over 50MPH at summit.
Hogsback in great shape, shrund filled in. Snow in pearly gates was a little softer than ideal.
Snow conditions were favorable for a rope team or individual arrest of a fall. Chose to climb unroped as team of 2 was solid and safety factor of rope didn't outweight extra time to rope up, particularly given approaching weather.
Descended through cloudy, low visibility conditions below 9500'. Back to car a little before 1:00PM
I've made it 9 out of 11 tries. Only once climbed in summer, it was awful. February and March have had the best climbs. Favorite route: Leuthold Coulior. Worst climb: Taking a bunch or raw beginners up the Wy'East in icy October conditions. Best memory: Guiding two of my 13 year old students to the top, along with a fellow teacher\friend who lived in Hood River (with Mt. Hood in his backyard) was just diagnosed with Leukemia, and decided he had better climb the mountain, or he never would. Seeing him call his wife from the summit was one of the most rewarding moments in my climbing life.
Incredible route! We took the longer original route that goes through a prominent gully at the top of the glacier then traverses over an exposed snow rib and then up another long gully. We could see the easier/shorter variation over to our right as we were ascending. Had great views looking down on a party climbing Leutholds and again when we topped out above West Crater Rim. Conditions were icey in spots making sustained frontpointing the desired mode of ascension with two tools. We summited at 5:30 P.M. in time to watch a beautiful sunset. Even rode the shovel down once we reached the Palmer . Quite an experience in the dark!
Left the lodge at about 4:45 AM and climbed up to about 9,000 feet then accross to the east then up the Steel Cliff Gulleys. The Wy'East route was in excellent shape. A ton of exposure and lots of scary traverses. Definately bring 2 tools. We got ice particles rained down on us several times. I got calf flameout from frontpointing on 55 to 60 degree ice gullies a few times. The route was really long. It took us 9.5 hours to summit and I've done the Hogsback in 4. Incredible weather all weekend, but it got a bit windy on the descent. We encountered other parties doing Sandy Headwall, Reid Headwall, Leutholds, and West Crater Rim. All were happy with conditions.
Great conditions on a rare weather window in February. Views to Diamond Peak in the south. Sunny but solid conditions. Summited with friend Steve I met in an expedition course last year.
Route was much more difficult this year due to both the steepness of the couloir and the snow conditions being really soft. Due the warm weather we were pelted by ice and rock fall from 9000' to 10500'. the others on my rope and myself came down with minor injuries due to the icefall but nothing serious except some good bruises, facial scraps, and possibly a broken finger. Weather was beautiful (probably too warm to be climbing) and we enjoyed a clear summit with only one other party sharing the top.
Route took a couple of hours longer than anticipated and what wehad done it previously. Watched a climber take a reverse fall over a 30-40 foot cliff and fall another couple of hundred feet trying to downclimb a variation of leuthold's at the base of Yocum Ridge. Luckily he was unhurt. The descent was uneventful except noticing that the std berg was not visible but another smaller one is open on the east side of the hogsback not far below the pearly gates. The hogs back is extremely narrow compared to previous years.
Attemped to do West Crater Rim, but our group chickened out after discovering there was no boot track, the conditions on the route were very icy, and the wind chills of approximately 30 below. The Hogsback was a good climb. Signifacantly harder in winter conditions than a trip up in late spring or summer. 16 out of 19 members of our party summited. Spectacular sunrise as we climbed above the clouds at about 9,500 feet. All of our eyebrows, eyelashes, and facial hair were frozen into icecycles on the summit. We looked like the Yeti! Glissaded part of the way down, then had some beer and pizza and celebrated.
It was a beautiful climb in May of 1995, when El Nino was in full force, dumping massive snow on the Cascades. The Bergshrund presented no problems at all. I recommend leaving very early, as we had to negotiate a group of Snowcat climbers on our descent of the Hogsback, even though we left at midnight on a weekday in the early season.
In case you don't know this route... you climb the S. Side (as normal) until just below Crater Rock, head West towards Illumination Rock and then turn into the gap between Castle Crags and Crater Rock, heading up to the summit in a direct, stinky (due to the sulphur fumes) line over steep snow. I managed to get to the summit ridge in around 4 hours (including one failed attempt to reach the ridge more directly via a little couloir and frozen waterfall which ended in my rejection and retreat). I made the top of the West Crater Rim but couldn't move to the right without downclimbing beneath some sketchy, loose rock and regaining the ridge closer to the Pearly Gates. I will post a picture soon showing the crux, a stack of poorly covered rock no wider than a diving board and totally exposed. I was solo so I never even considered trying to take it head on. Going around it on the N. side was out of the question and I didn't really care enough to cross all the way over to the Hogsback and reclimb just to get the extra 20 feet of elevation and "bag the summit" as I have been up there twice before.
The climb was much more intense than anything I have done on Hood before because despite the "Winter" date on the calendar, there was a lot of loose rock and ice coming off the West Crater Rim and it was hot and sunny. This is a real bowling alley and I hope to never climb it again unless everything is under a solid sheet of snow (though this is also a big avalanche area). I took a chunk of ice the size of a softball right in the middle of my pack as I descended and many fying-pan-sized rocks went whizzing down the mountain on both sides of me. Obviously this route is technically pretty straight-forward (or I wouldn't have been able to do it), however the objective dangers seemed a lot greater than the Hogsback and I wouldn't do it again without better snow conditions.
Let's hope for some good snow. Enjoy and climb safe, NOAH
p.s. Technically I didn't reach the absolute highest point on the summit ridge, but don't hold it against me :)
Soloed this in just under 3 hours (from lodge) while on a retreat for grad school =) Watch out for loose rocks!
Nice route- overcrowded though. We got an early start to avoid crowds - even with the recent deaths, people are still acting stupid on the slope above the bergschrund - roped up teams descending/ascending, crossing over eachother.... when are they gonna learn?
Parked at cooper spur ski area. Climbed with JZ. The glacier was covered well. Took a break in a snowcave below the bergschrund to eat and brew and nap. There were a couple of steep steps and we used a few screws. Summited late morning. Cooper was too loaded to downclimb as was the Sunshine route, so we hiked down the chairlifts and hitched a ride back to the truck with some guy who told stories of meeting all of the famous climbers of the previous generation. Interesting guy.
This turned out to be an epic climb. Perfect weather the entire day, but lots of rock fall and tricky climbing up rock couloirs. I would recommend climbing this route earlier in the season.
Had a great time in May on the Hogsback route, so I came back for a harder route. Slept in the car then took a snowcat to the top of the lift. Cut to the left of Crater Rock and around the scree patch, then straight up to the summit ridge. Was about as steep as between the bergschrund and pearly gates on the hogsback route, but the steep section is much longer. The weather this time was much better with almost no wind. It was a lot easier trip than last time with a daypack, the cat, and no 50 mph winds!
Climbed with my friend Scott on a beautiful day. 6 hrs roundtrip from the Lodge. Bergschrund was a little dicey, but negotiable.