Mount Humphreys Climber's Log

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Climber Dave

Climber Dave - Feb 2, 2011 1:52 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010

Freezing Winds on the Southwest Slope  Sucess!

Climbed the Southwest Slope, freezing cold winds 30+ Mph was blowing snow from storm on the other side of Humphreys Basin on us. By the time we reached the summit we were so cold and the wind was blowing so hard, that we just signed in and bailed to get off before getting caught in a storm. Never even got to enjoy the view. Hope to be back, next time maybe the East Arete.

PlanIt

PlanIt - Jan 28, 2011 12:49 pm

Long walk in God's country  Sucess!

Postholed in and soloed until a slide in a northfacing couloir almost killed me just below the summit of 13,123. Climbed up and over shaking and a little bloody. No harm done, lesson learned.

gordonye

gordonye - Sep 7, 2010 1:50 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010

SW side  Sucess!

Climbed with Hakan from Marmot Lake, belayed one pitch of class 4 (above the platform). The climb looked intimidating from the adjacent ridge above the notch, but it was a mellow one. We descended into a different gully based on a tip from climbers we met at the notch. Ended up making a 4th class traverse out of a lower gully, the traverse was over ledges covered with lots of loose rock. All in all a great day, we had the whole Humphreys basin to ourselves.

Daria

Daria - Aug 15, 2010 9:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2008

Great climb  Sucess!

Great summit, fun 4th class route

kraymes

kraymes - May 22, 2010 6:15 pm Date Climbed: Oct 4, 1991

East Arete  Sucess!

I really loved this route. I think more than anything is that I had the most vivid dreams of my life on the bivy.

Tom Kenney

Tom Kenney - Oct 24, 2009 7:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2009

Nice Birthday Gift  Sucess!

Great climb! Very thrilling. Thanks, Sean.

sardude

sardude - Sep 23, 2009 6:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2003

Did it  Sucess!

100th anniversary climb

Augie Medina

Augie Medina - Aug 30, 2009 8:31 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009

Nice 3d and 4th Class  Sucess!

Did day hike via SW Slope/NW Face. Very nice scrambling up from the little notch about 600 feet below the summit. But didn't care for the loose scree chutes below the notch.

seano

seano - Aug 13, 2009 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009

Normal route  Sucess!

Alternate for 2009 Sierra Challenge. Good: took the middle of 3 main chutes to do more class 3 and less scree slogging. Bad: traversed too far right on final class 4 ridge, wasting time.

WML

WML - Jul 30, 2009 1:52 am Date Climbed: May 14, 2009

North Couloir Direct

Topped out on the couloir for a snowboard descent. Mountaineering boots in snowboard bindings = bad decisions. Decided against climbing to the summit to bag it, as we planned to summit the next day VIA the East Arete. I got injured on the way down and that never occurred. Will be back to get this one FOR SURE.

TheRootster

TheRootster - Jun 21, 2009 1:14 pm

East Arete Bail-out

This one got away. Climbing with Carter and a friend of hers. Going up to the first notch, we were fanned out across the width of the slope but at various levels of vertical. Friend, in the lead above, dislodged a small rock which sped toward Carter at warp speed. It missed her head but knicked her hand. We continued up to the notch, where Carter decided she had had enough. Friend and I continued, soon breaking out the rope. I led up some fourth or easy fifth class to a large belay "ledge" and was belaying Friend up when I shifted my weight a bit and the whole massive ledge rocked! It was one enormous loose, flat boulder. I shouted down to friend to reverse course and we beat a hasty retreat, tails between legs.

soslaw

soslaw - Sep 29, 2008 12:10 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2008

SW Slope & NW Face  Sucess!

Good class 3-4 from @13,400 to summit.

Sam Roberts

Sam Roberts - Jul 31, 2008 6:42 pm

Normal Route  Sucess!

Up the normal route and down somewhere on the west face. Solo day hike from North Lake.

graham

graham - Jul 22, 2008 4:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2008

East Ridge Route

Climbed the East Ridge with Tony & Jim under cloudy skies. Luckily we didn't get any rain. A superb route. C2C in 11 hours

Timmyb

Timmyb - Jul 14, 2008 10:05 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2008

Climbed South East Buttress  Sucess!

Climbed with Dave S. and Seth V.. Super fun!

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Apr 14, 2008 8:34 pm Date Climbed: Apr 13, 2008

North Couloir Direct  Sucess!

Trip Report

ripper333 - Apr 4, 2008 1:36 am

east arete

very cool trip with dave and the grund...got a flat tire on the approach road... which
tore the hell out of daves' subie... ..great weather and route.. grund and i soloed to
the summit... dave waited below for us.. fun climbin..

BCL

BCL - Aug 5, 2007 12:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007

SW Slope/NW Face  Sucess!

Started in the Bob Burd chute, exited to the left at the chock stone and climbed the face all the way the notch. This route avoided all the loose crap and did not exceed class 3. The NW Face was pretty straight forward. On the second class 4 section the variation right around the corner seemed easier to me. Finished it with a swim in upper Humphreys Lake.

Romain

Romain - Jun 19, 2007 9:55 pm Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2007

East Arete (II, 5.4)  Sucess!

With Rene' Renteria. Via East Arete, from the notch at the top of the Southeast Gully. Even with the abbreviated arete, this is a long climb. The climbing is moderate (nothing in excess of mid fifth, mostly 3rd and 4th class). Excellent conditions and weather. Trip report here.

yaknjorgl

yaknjorgl - May 2, 2007 2:47 am

a kids dream  Sucess!

been on pile of summit rocks twice (1st with Kevin Ball and 2nd with Jeff Perry and Bob Ghanall) chugging up the normal route both times with a rope. It was great growing up in Bishop and seeing it everyday and finally climbing it. I tried climbing it in the 80's when I was a teenager before I knew what guidebooks were and the people at the climbing store had egos too large to have meer mortals ask them questions- Troy Pino and I didn't make it all that far up the east arete but it was fun as was the dip in the tairn at the bottm. Good times, good times...

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