We read the description saying, "obvious diehedral" and didn't take any further beta with us. The result was that we climbed, then down-climbed Joyless. A week later I went back and we climbed Joy then walked off the back.
Down-climbing Joyless in the rain was not my favourite route of the summer. We made a few single piece anchors to downclimb from and therefore left some gear behind.
SarahThompson - Aug 27, 2017 5:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2017
Joy + Traverse
First climbed Joy, then slogged over to do the highly aesthetic traverse between the two summits (which I think I enjoyed more). Right after we returned to the parking lot a ranger stopped by to warn us he'd just had a grizzly encounter not far from the trailhead!
First knife-edge ridge, and it certainly won't be my last
Matt - Aug 3, 2012 9:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012
North to South Ridge Walk
First mountain I've climbed! Gotta say I think I'm hooked.
Excellent views although the wind almost blew us off...
We went to the false summit then the North Peak and did the ridge walk over to the south.
attimount - Oct 11, 2011 6:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2008
Traverse S to N.
Nice hike to S peak and afine ridge between he peaks.
Perfect weather, perfect views.
William Marler - Jul 2, 2010 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2010
Finished it off
Fine outing with good friends on Canada Day, great view. All the snow that prevented me 3 weeks ago was gone. Cheers
William Marler - Jun 7, 2010 1:13 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2010
Hiking route
Got as far as the snow conditions would allow. Nice day just the same.
BlueFoxCA - Aug 24, 2007 4:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2007
First attempt at a scramble
Since the trail has now been decommissioned, they've blocked it with a bunch of boulders... easy enough to get over, but initially we missed the trailhead and wound up out of time & water, so we didn't summit.
Parisa - Feb 3, 2007 11:38 pm Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2006
Joy Route
Climbed with pvalchev and agree with everything he said. Great views, but the monotonous slab climbing gets pretty boring after awhile.
pvalchev - Sep 14, 2006 1:10 am Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2006
Joy Route (5.5)
Fun day with Parisa. The climbing portion took about 5 hours, I placed from one to max 3 pieces per pitch, and still had trouble finding decent belays sometimes with the gear I had left. Due to the parallel nature of the cracks it's hard to make passive nuts to work, so doubles of the small/medium cams/tricams would've been nice, I carried a small rack and wore approach shoes. Some uncomfortable belay stances. Spectacular view but did not find the climb that much of a joy, it's long and monotonous, would be more fun to simulclimb.
T Sharp - Aug 5, 2006 3:29 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2003
South Summit
Came to climb Mt. Joffre, avy conditions up Fossil Falls were very high so climbed Indefatigable instead, very enjoyable hike and beautiful views.
Route Climbed: South summit hike Date Climbed: May 13, 2005
a long day on the mountain, hip deep snow from about half way up the mountain. Wished I had snowshoes for the first time cause its sure beats kicking steps in the slushy snow for 4 hours. The most interesting hike that I have done so far because I got to see a bear and a cub and using the tarp to slide down was awesome. Kind of dissapointed that I forgot my camera and my friend's camera battery died on her when we reached the south summit. Oh well, now I have one good reason to come back and do the traverse.
June 24, 2006 - Finally did the traverse and it was quite enjoyable. Although I probably should have waited maybe another two weeks cause the lakes were still not full so it wasn't as nice. A great day with good friends for sure.
Route Climbed: Summit Traverse Date Climbed: September 2003
Summited with Shane. Great views until it started snowing--it was foggy at the top and cold, but a nice climb. The upper lakes is one of my favorite areas in K-Country.
Route Climbed: Joy Date Climbed: August 28, 2005 and October, 2003
We got started on the route late and were lucky enough that the party above let us pass or we could have been stuck on this route for a very long day. A team has spent an evening on this route according to a filed accident report. Get an early start if you know you are going to take it slow. Going to the south summit after the climb was worthwhile as it always is to top out. Enjoyed a large moose on the drive in located in the marshes to the left. Great route to practice placing protection and setting up stations. Grand day on the rock!
I also did the scramble traverse in 2003, from the north summit to the south summit. So I can say I have attacked this mountain from several angles. It is accessible and offers great views. A mountain with various routes to entertain good mountaineers in bad weather and avid peak baggers in good weather.
GilmourB - Sep 22, 2018 3:07 pm
Joy and Joyless, July 2018We read the description saying, "obvious diehedral" and didn't take any further beta with us. The result was that we climbed, then down-climbed Joyless. A week later I went back and we climbed Joy then walked off the back.
Down-climbing Joyless in the rain was not my favourite route of the summer. We made a few single piece anchors to downclimb from and therefore left some gear behind.
SarahThompson - Aug 27, 2017 5:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2017
Joy + TraverseFirst climbed Joy, then slogged over to do the highly aesthetic traverse between the two summits (which I think I enjoyed more). Right after we returned to the parking lot a ranger stopped by to warn us he'd just had a grizzly encounter not far from the trailhead!
NNourian - Oct 10, 2016 8:53 pm
Traverse South to North PeakFirst knife-edge ridge, and it certainly won't be my last
Matt - Aug 3, 2012 9:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012
North to South Ridge WalkFirst mountain I've climbed! Gotta say I think I'm hooked.
Excellent views although the wind almost blew us off...
We went to the false summit then the North Peak and did the ridge walk over to the south.
attimount - Oct 11, 2011 6:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2008
Traverse S to N.Nice hike to S peak and afine ridge between he peaks.
Perfect weather, perfect views.
William Marler - Jul 2, 2010 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2010
Finished it offFine outing with good friends on Canada Day, great view. All the snow that prevented me 3 weeks ago was gone. Cheers
William Marler - Jun 7, 2010 1:13 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2010
Hiking routeGot as far as the snow conditions would allow. Nice day just the same.
BlueFoxCA - Aug 24, 2007 4:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2007
First attempt at a scrambleSince the trail has now been decommissioned, they've blocked it with a bunch of boulders... easy enough to get over, but initially we missed the trailhead and wound up out of time & water, so we didn't summit.
Parisa - Feb 3, 2007 11:38 pm Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2006
Joy RouteClimbed with pvalchev and agree with everything he said. Great views, but the monotonous slab climbing gets pretty boring after awhile.
pvalchev - Sep 14, 2006 1:10 am Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2006
Joy Route (5.5)Fun day with Parisa. The climbing portion took about 5 hours, I placed from one to max 3 pieces per pitch, and still had trouble finding decent belays sometimes with the gear I had left. Due to the parallel nature of the cracks it's hard to make passive nuts to work, so doubles of the small/medium cams/tricams would've been nice, I carried a small rack and wore approach shoes. Some uncomfortable belay stances. Spectacular view but did not find the climb that much of a joy, it's long and monotonous, would be more fun to simulclimb.
T Sharp - Aug 5, 2006 3:29 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2003
South SummitCame to climb Mt. Joffre, avy conditions up Fossil Falls were very high so climbed Indefatigable instead, very enjoyable hike and beautiful views.
couchclimber - Sep 8, 2005 2:29 am
Route Climbed: South summit hike Date Climbed: May 13, 2005a long day on the mountain, hip deep snow from about half way up the mountain. Wished I had snowshoes for the first time cause its sure beats kicking steps in the slushy snow for 4 hours. The most interesting hike that I have done so far because I got to see a bear and a cub and using the tarp to slide down was awesome. Kind of dissapointed that I forgot my camera and my friend's camera battery died on her when we reached the south summit. Oh well, now I have one good reason to come back and do the traverse.
June 24, 2006 - Finally did the traverse and it was quite enjoyable. Although I probably should have waited maybe another two weeks cause the lakes were still not full so it wasn't as nice. A great day with good friends for sure.
CdnRockyGal - Sep 1, 2005 8:54 pm
Route Climbed: Summit Traverse Date Climbed: September 2003Summited with Shane. Great views until it started snowing--it was foggy at the top and cold, but a nice climb. The upper lakes is one of my favorite areas in K-Country.
Dow Williams - Aug 31, 2005 10:52 am
Route Climbed: Joy Date Climbed: August 28, 2005 and October, 2003We got started on the route late and were lucky enough that the party above let us pass or we could have been stuck on this route for a very long day. A team has spent an evening on this route according to a filed accident report. Get an early start if you know you are going to take it slow. Going to the south summit after the climb was worthwhile as it always is to top out. Enjoyed a large moose on the drive in located in the marshes to the left. Great route to practice placing protection and setting up stations. Grand day on the rock!
I also did the scramble traverse in 2003, from the north summit to the south summit. So I can say I have attacked this mountain from several angles. It is accessible and offers great views. A mountain with various routes to entertain good mountaineers in bad weather and avid peak baggers in good weather.