Turned around when it appeared the pinnacle was covered in rime (strong guess) because we had rock pro instead of ice pro. Darn! Went in via the suggested forest road #750. FS has a couple flyers posted to trees encouraging you to use another route. The ridge at the road's end is burned (perhaps intentionally by the FS?). Slower going because of this. PCT had snow about a mile from Shale Lake. FS signs about the Pamelia Lake area include the Shale Lake area as part of the Limited Entry Area (we thought you only needed a permit for Hunts Cove or Pamelia Lake based on trip reports). Their sign says it is illegal for climbers to pass through the area to access the South Ridge. Take this info as you will.
Hiked the South Ridge in a little under 15 and a half hours round trip. Tried going up the SW Ridge but couldn't find the trail and turned back when the bushwhacking got bad. Summit pinnacle was still mostly snow covered.
* July 8, 2017: Ascent of the South Ridge Route. The approach is long but scenic. The camping was nice. The cruxes started at the Red Saddle and were lots of fun.
* June 4, 2018: Ascent of the Milk Creek: North Lobe Route. The approach is along Milk Creek and then heads Northeast along the small glacier to join the North Ridge Route. The Pinnacle was involved this trip and took us until the third pinnacle variation to gain the summit.
Rejected. The bergschrund at the very top of the the Jefferson Park Glacier was a moat and wall that completely shut us down. Still, it was insanely beautiful and fun to climb with two axes and a lot of front pointing. We protected the climb with a lot of pickets. I'll be back to get the summit.
I came in from the forest road just north of Pamelia to avoid the permit nonsense -- it may even be faster, and there is almost no bushwhacking. The climbers' trail is easy to miss, but pretty decent. The snow traverse is legit. Trip report.
A surprisingly aesthetic, challenging and varied route on a volcano. No others on the route, a difficult looking but surprisingly easy bergschrund, a no kidding knife edge ridge, and steep snice to finish. Early season critical for conditions.
This was my second attempt on Mt. Jefferson this year and it was very memorable. We were treated to hurricane force winds on the first night at our 7800 ft. camp along with 6 inches of snow. The next day we moved up to 8900 ft. and waited out the weather. Joel did a great job leading the technical sections and the traverse turned out to be the easiest section. The slope steepened as we made our way around to the North Ridge then encountered a short section of nearly vertical ice and a 5th class move to gain the summit ridge. This pushed both of us right up to our technical and physical limits. On our way down, we encountered three rope teams from the Colorado Mountaineering School. We were on the summit at 9:30 am and I was fortunate to make it back to see Flight of the Conchords live in Portland at 8 pm. Truly a magical day!
After crossing the snowfield beyond the red saddle, traverse as far as you reasonably can onto the north side. From there traverse westward as you go up towards the summit. Eventually you will end up on the right side of the summit. Go through the gully which will take you to the top.
This method will help bypass any class 4 stuff. My route is class 3 and is the easiest way to the summit. And I mean easy class 3. :-) Mostly solid rock too which was a pleasant surprise.
Awesome climb with Jobe Wymore. Very straight forward hike up to the Red Saddle and then not so much. By far the sketchiest part of the entire hike is getting across the snowfield to reach the other side of the summit pinnacle. The scramble up to the top wasn't too bad although there were a couple sections of class 4 climbing.
The snow traverse was short, but still sketchy. At 11:30 on a reasonable warm day (in August!) the snow was just softening a little. I was very grateful I was on belay when I fell there. The team descending as we ascended hadn't gone far enough north to find the class 4 route. Go almost all the way to the north side before turning up or you'll be stuck. Descending the ridge that ends at Pamelia was almost as bad as I remembered. Next time I'd go the extra distance by going by Shale Lake hoping for a better route.
Very dry trip. We had to ration water carefully. Pamelia Lake looked nearly gone as did Shale Lake. Like Craig said, the traverse was serious business but the scramble turned out easy. Neat climb and glad I went.
With Josh & Michael. Don't be fooled... there *is* an easy Class 3 climb of the summit block. It is not immediately obvious but it is there. The sketchiest part of the whole journey was the traverse after the Red Saddle. We were able to make some use of the moat, with two pitches using a 60m rope. Fantastic weather and views. I dedicated this climb to my recently deceased peakbagging buddy, Edward Earl.
white out and thick cloud the entire time past 8200. Took me bloody 13.5 hrs from Whitewater trail head. Did climb from car to car.
Traverse melted out for Fruitstripe. Sketchy
We left camp at 4:30am from the east end of Jefferson Park. We headed up a gully that was used by one in the party on a previous attempt. However, the snow petered out leaving us in a dangerous position on steep, loose dirt from a terminal moraine deposited long ago. By the time we made the traverse of Whitewater and worked up ugly scree to Red Saddle, we had reached our turn-around time of 12:00pm. Although it was a slightly below average snowfall year and a warmer than usual summer, a large section of the traverse was still in snow this late in the season. The first half of the snow field could be bypassed by a mote, but not the second half. Although the weather was perfect, we reluctantly turned back. Next time, we'll set a higher camp and get an earlier start.
This was my fourth try on my nemesis, Mount Jefferson. We left the Pamelia Lake TH at midnight on the nose. Approached through Shale lake and went up the South Ridge. We made the Red Saddle at 6:30 just after the sun rose. The traverse was short, 200', and solid. In fact I probably could have placed screws in a couple of spots. However I only brought pickets. Placed 3 pickets and traversed with ease. After some confusing route finding we scrambled an easy class 4 summit block to the top. Had a rope so we rapped down. No need to protect the climb. back across the traverse and at the saddle by 10:00am. Returned the way we came.
7100' Elevation gain
Led the snow traverse in trail runners
Went Jeff Park this time. Saw a bunch of rime on the razor ridge so we traversed White Water then up to the Red Saddle. The traverse under the pinnacle wasn't bad, then headed over to the summit block to find some nasty rime so we turned around 150' from the top. Now I'm just getting pissed, I'll be back in a couple of weeks for try 3! Who knew Jeff takes 21000' of climbing to summit!
via Jeff Park Glacier, 5.5 hours camp-camp at base of glacier, descended North Milk Crk gully and traversed mod snow to top of Russell Glacier... excellent route, highly recommended
We climbed Mt. Jefferson from Coyote Lake, first time up this mountain but not my first try. We got rained out last year. The weather was perfect this time. We carried 2 ropes and a bit of gear. Protecting on the traverse was our main concern and my 70 Meter rope was long enough to cover it. One snow patch left to cross but it was very short. Main problem was loose and damp ground. Only one catch your breath when a large rock came loose on one of us and banged his shin pretty good.