Wiley - Aug 25, 2021 8:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2021
Late season choss fest
My brother and I got to the top of Mt. Jefferson this Saturday, it was really quite a tricky endeavor but it went about as well as I could have hoped for and I am very grateful to finally check off the last of the technical Oregon volcanos.
I don't know if it really is that bad or I'm just getting older and more cautious, but this one really felt like it had a lot to throw at me. We started from our camp around 5:45AM and got blasted for the first few hours by a horizontal rain/ice storm and whiteout, but we kept climbing since we didn't have anything else to do. We went pretty slow because we didn't want to sit in the wind, and when we got to the red saddle around 11AM it was actually starting to clear up a bit and we decided to climb.
I've gotten a lot of conflicting beta about this route, everyone I've actually talked to in person hated some part of it but I was more concerned about the "terrible traverse" in these drought conditions than the summit block. The traverse was totally snow free besides one patch, even the part in the back that the map claimed was a permenant snow field, but I was able to protect most of it with slings and it wasn't quite as bad as I expected.
The summit block on the other hand was pretty awful, what a goddamn pile of rocks this one is. I really did my best to pitch out every vertical part and we simuled and pitched out the traverses, but everything on this mountain seems like it moves if you pull on it hard enough. I just did my best and took my time with it, we spent 5 entire hours on the ropes from the red saddle to the top and back, almost all the rockfall happening on the summit block was induced by us so caution seemed in order.
There have only been 2 other groups up to sign the book since the fatal accident, possibly that explains my facial expression in my summit photo! I've been preparing for this summit attempt pretty intensely, and since it was successful I don't particularly feel like I'm going to want to go back anytime soon.
If I ever change my mind about that, I guess I would do it as an ice climb, the choss fests just aren't as much fun as they used to be! Still, super grateful to check it off the list and really happy that I decided to spend 3 entire days on the climb and use protection for all of it. I don't think I'd be willing to touch this one with less!
triyoda - Aug 6, 2020 12:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2020
Seekseekqua
South ridge, very physically strenuous overall climb. Fortunately the traverse and the summit block were not as difficult as I expected.
yadahzoemtn - Jun 7, 2020 10:10 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2020
Jefferson via the West Rib
One of the most technical climbs I have ever done on a Cascade Volcano. Took us 10 hours to reach the summit from base camp at 6,100'. Quite the magnificent mountain.
Moogie737 - Jun 6, 2020 4:29 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2020
Via the West Rib
#1 06-02-2020 With Lana and TMG Brandon Seymore. A 3-day trip starting at the Pamelia Lakes TH. One of the toughest mountains I have ever ascended. Brandon has done this mountain many times and commented that the conditions were "the gnarliest" he'd ever seen. Steep upper slopes studded with unending rime ice led to 6 pitches en route to the top. This Cascade volcano is by far the most challenging I've done. We were fortunate to make it. Rainier, Hood, Glacier, Adams, Shasta - take a back seat and bow down to Jefferson!
Our climb of Jefferson turned out to be at reconnaissance. John Shea and I went up Woodpecker Ridge starting a trailhead elevation 4400 feet, crossing the Pacific crest Trail at 5000 feet and then headed up a sketchy climbers trail through fallen burnt trees until we could reach snow field at 7000 feet, the first source of water for us. We used the most of our fuel melting snow into water and then headed up the Ridge at 5 AM. We turned back at about 8 AM realizing that we were low on energy and would not have been able to make to the summit and all the way back down to the trailhead at a reasonable hour in the evening. Not all was lost. We learned we need three days a for a successful climb and four canisters of fuel.
Plan to reattempt August 25-28. Want to join us? I am reachable at 541-829-1182 or mchuntington@gmail.com.
Was just going to play on the lower slopes since i had an ice axe but no crampons...but points beckoned. Ascended jefferson glacier to below the shrunds and traversed south over the ridge and just scrambled below the ridge traversing upwards across the west face to the summit pinnacle. Some loose scree but mostly stable boulders and no exposure. Followed the snow trail down the whitewater glacier route. It was a long day but great fun as i hadn't been there before.
Our climb of Jefferson turned on August 24-25, 2019 turned out to be at reconnaissance. John Shea and I went up Woodpecker Ridge starting a trailhead elevation 4400 feet, crossing the Pacific crest Trail at 5000 feet and then headed up a sketchy climbers trail through fallen burnt trees until we could reach snow field at 7000 feet, the first source of water for us. We used the most of our fuel melting snow into water and then headed up the Ridge at 5 AM. We turned back at about 8 AM realizing that we were low on energy and would not have been able to make to the summit and all the way back down to the trailhead at a reasonable hour in the evening. Not all was lost. We learned we need three days a for a successful climb and four canisters of fuel.
Plan to reattempt August 25-28. Want to join us? I am reachable at 541-829-1182 or mchuntington@gmail.com.
Forestcouple - Jun 26, 2018 7:44 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2018
South Ridge
Turned around when it appeared the pinnacle was covered in rime (strong guess) because we had rock pro instead of ice pro. Darn! Went in via the suggested forest road #750. FS has a couple flyers posted to trees encouraging you to use another route. The ridge at the road's end is burned (perhaps intentionally by the FS?). Slower going because of this. PCT had snow about a mile from Shale Lake. FS signs about the Pamelia Lake area include the Shale Lake area as part of the Limited Entry Area (we thought you only needed a permit for Hunts Cove or Pamelia Lake based on trip reports). Their sign says it is illegal for climbers to pass through the area to access the South Ridge. Take this info as you will.
Mt. Jefferson
Our climb of Jefferson turned out to be at reconnaissance. John Shea and I went up Woodpecker Ridge starting a trailhead elevation 4400 feet, crossing the Pacific crest Trail at 5000 feet and then headed up a sketchy climbers trail through fallen burnt trees until we could reach snow field at 7000 feet, the first source of water for us. We used the most of our fuel melting snow into water and then headed up the Ridge at 5 AM. We turned back at about 8 AM realizing that we were low on energy and would not have been able to make to the summit and all the way back down to the trailhead at a reasonable hour in the evening. Not all was lost. We learned we need three days a for a successful climb and four canisters of fuel.
Plan to reattempt August 25-28. Want to join us? I am reachable at 541-829-1182 or mchuntington@gmail.com
utclimber - Jun 24, 2018 5:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2018
South Ridge Day Hike
Hiked the South Ridge in a little under 15 and a half hours round trip. Tried going up the SW Ridge but couldn't find the trail and turned back when the bushwhacking got bad. Summit pinnacle was still mostly snow covered.
Harvest - Aug 15, 2017 3:47 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2017
Jefferson Adventures
* July 8, 2017: Ascent of the South Ridge Route. The approach is long but scenic. The camping was nice. The cruxes started at the Red Saddle and were lots of fun.
* June 4, 2018: Ascent of the Milk Creek: North Lobe Route. The approach is along Milk Creek and then heads Northeast along the small glacier to join the North Ridge Route. The Pinnacle was involved this trip and took us until the third pinnacle variation to gain the summit.
Rejected. The bergschrund at the very top of the the Jefferson Park Glacier was a moat and wall that completely shut us down. Still, it was insanely beautiful and fun to climb with two axes and a lot of front pointing. We protected the climb with a lot of pickets. I'll be back to get the summit.
seano - Aug 2, 2016 6:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2016
SW ridge
I came in from the forest road just north of Pamelia to avoid the permit nonsense -- it may even be faster, and there is almost no bushwhacking. The climbers' trail is easy to miss, but pretty decent. The snow traverse is legit. Trip report.
setrent - Jul 6, 2016 11:38 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2016
Jeff Park Glacier
A surprisingly aesthetic, challenging and varied route on a volcano. No others on the route, a difficult looking but surprisingly easy bergschrund, a no kidding knife edge ridge, and steep snice to finish. Early season critical for conditions.
YEM - Jun 27, 2016 1:45 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2016
South Ridge
This was my second attempt on Mt. Jefferson this year and it was very memorable. We were treated to hurricane force winds on the first night at our 7800 ft. camp along with 6 inches of snow. The next day we moved up to 8900 ft. and waited out the weather. Joel did a great job leading the technical sections and the traverse turned out to be the easiest section. The slope steepened as we made our way around to the North Ridge then encountered a short section of nearly vertical ice and a 5th class move to gain the summit ridge. This pushed both of us right up to our technical and physical limits. On our way down, we encountered three rope teams from the Colorado Mountaineering School. We were on the summit at 9:30 am and I was fortunate to make it back to see Flight of the Conchords live in Portland at 8 pm. Truly a magical day!
Josh Lewis - May 24, 2016 2:51 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015
From the South
After crossing the snowfield beyond the red saddle, traverse as far as you reasonably can onto the north side. From there traverse westward as you go up towards the summit. Eventually you will end up on the right side of the summit. Go through the gully which will take you to the top.
This method will help bypass any class 4 stuff. My route is class 3 and is the easiest way to the summit. And I mean easy class 3. :-) Mostly solid rock too which was a pleasant surprise.
scgrant - Sep 16, 2015 12:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2015
Mount Jefferson
Awesome climb with Jobe Wymore. Very straight forward hike up to the Red Saddle and then not so much. By far the sketchiest part of the entire hike is getting across the snowfield to reach the other side of the summit pinnacle. The scramble up to the top wasn't too bad although there were a couple sections of class 4 climbing.
olsenn - Sep 1, 2015 3:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2015
SW ridge
The snow traverse was short, but still sketchy. At 11:30 on a reasonable warm day (in August!) the snow was just softening a little. I was very grateful I was on belay when I fell there. The team descending as we ascended hadn't gone far enough north to find the class 4 route. Go almost all the way to the north side before turning up or you'll be stuck. Descending the ridge that ends at Pamelia was almost as bad as I remembered. Next time I'd go the extra distance by going by Shale Lake hoping for a better route.
Mike Lewis - Jul 20, 2015 9:13 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015
S Ridge not much water
Very dry trip. We had to ration water carefully. Pamelia Lake looked nearly gone as did Shale Lake. Like Craig said, the traverse was serious business but the scramble turned out easy. Neat climb and glad I went.
Redwic - Jul 20, 2015 8:57 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015
Great climb!
With Josh & Michael. Don't be fooled... there *is* an easy Class 3 climb of the summit block. It is not immediately obvious but it is there. The sketchiest part of the whole journey was the traverse after the Red Saddle. We were able to make some use of the moat, with two pitches using a 60m rope. Fantastic weather and views. I dedicated this climb to my recently deceased peakbagging buddy, Edward Earl.
Wiley - Aug 25, 2021 8:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2021
Late season choss festMy brother and I got to the top of Mt. Jefferson this Saturday, it was really quite a tricky endeavor but it went about as well as I could have hoped for and I am very grateful to finally check off the last of the technical Oregon volcanos.
I don't know if it really is that bad or I'm just getting older and more cautious, but this one really felt like it had a lot to throw at me. We started from our camp around 5:45AM and got blasted for the first few hours by a horizontal rain/ice storm and whiteout, but we kept climbing since we didn't have anything else to do. We went pretty slow because we didn't want to sit in the wind, and when we got to the red saddle around 11AM it was actually starting to clear up a bit and we decided to climb.
I've gotten a lot of conflicting beta about this route, everyone I've actually talked to in person hated some part of it but I was more concerned about the "terrible traverse" in these drought conditions than the summit block. The traverse was totally snow free besides one patch, even the part in the back that the map claimed was a permenant snow field, but I was able to protect most of it with slings and it wasn't quite as bad as I expected.
The summit block on the other hand was pretty awful, what a goddamn pile of rocks this one is. I really did my best to pitch out every vertical part and we simuled and pitched out the traverses, but everything on this mountain seems like it moves if you pull on it hard enough. I just did my best and took my time with it, we spent 5 entire hours on the ropes from the red saddle to the top and back, almost all the rockfall happening on the summit block was induced by us so caution seemed in order.
There have only been 2 other groups up to sign the book since the fatal accident, possibly that explains my facial expression in my summit photo! I've been preparing for this summit attempt pretty intensely, and since it was successful I don't particularly feel like I'm going to want to go back anytime soon.
If I ever change my mind about that, I guess I would do it as an ice climb, the choss fests just aren't as much fun as they used to be! Still, super grateful to check it off the list and really happy that I decided to spend 3 entire days on the climb and use protection for all of it. I don't think I'd be willing to touch this one with less!
triyoda - Aug 6, 2020 12:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2020
SeekseekquaSouth ridge, very physically strenuous overall climb. Fortunately the traverse and the summit block were not as difficult as I expected.
yadahzoemtn - Jun 7, 2020 10:10 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2020
Jefferson via the West RibOne of the most technical climbs I have ever done on a Cascade Volcano. Took us 10 hours to reach the summit from base camp at 6,100'. Quite the magnificent mountain.
Moogie737 - Jun 6, 2020 4:29 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2020
Via the West Rib#1 06-02-2020 With Lana and TMG Brandon Seymore. A 3-day trip starting at the Pamelia Lakes TH. One of the toughest mountains I have ever ascended. Brandon has done this mountain many times and commented that the conditions were "the gnarliest" he'd ever seen. Steep upper slopes studded with unending rime ice led to 6 pitches en route to the top. This Cascade volcano is by far the most challenging I've done. We were fortunate to make it. Rainier, Hood, Glacier, Adams, Shasta - take a back seat and bow down to Jefferson!
Mike C Huntington - Aug 5, 2019 8:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2019
Mt. JeffersonOur climb of Jefferson turned out to be at reconnaissance. John Shea and I went up Woodpecker Ridge starting a trailhead elevation 4400 feet, crossing the Pacific crest Trail at 5000 feet and then headed up a sketchy climbers trail through fallen burnt trees until we could reach snow field at 7000 feet, the first source of water for us. We used the most of our fuel melting snow into water and then headed up the Ridge at 5 AM. We turned back at about 8 AM realizing that we were low on energy and would not have been able to make to the summit and all the way back down to the trailhead at a reasonable hour in the evening. Not all was lost. We learned we need three days a for a successful climb and four canisters of fuel.
Plan to reattempt August 25-28. Want to join us? I am reachable at 541-829-1182 or mchuntington@gmail.com.
Makalu - Feb 3, 2019 1:42 pm
"scramblers route"Was just going to play on the lower slopes since i had an ice axe but no crampons...but points beckoned. Ascended jefferson glacier to below the shrunds and traversed south over the ridge and just scrambled below the ridge traversing upwards across the west face to the summit pinnacle. Some loose scree but mostly stable boulders and no exposure. Followed the snow trail down the whitewater glacier route. It was a long day but great fun as i hadn't been there before.
Mike C Huntington - Aug 5, 2019 8:21 pm
Re: Mt. JeffersonOur climb of Jefferson turned on August 24-25, 2019 turned out to be at reconnaissance. John Shea and I went up Woodpecker Ridge starting a trailhead elevation 4400 feet, crossing the Pacific crest Trail at 5000 feet and then headed up a sketchy climbers trail through fallen burnt trees until we could reach snow field at 7000 feet, the first source of water for us. We used the most of our fuel melting snow into water and then headed up the Ridge at 5 AM. We turned back at about 8 AM realizing that we were low on energy and would not have been able to make to the summit and all the way back down to the trailhead at a reasonable hour in the evening. Not all was lost. We learned we need three days a for a successful climb and four canisters of fuel.
Plan to reattempt August 25-28. Want to join us? I am reachable at 541-829-1182 or mchuntington@gmail.com.
Forestcouple - Jun 26, 2018 7:44 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2018
South RidgeTurned around when it appeared the pinnacle was covered in rime (strong guess) because we had rock pro instead of ice pro. Darn! Went in via the suggested forest road #750. FS has a couple flyers posted to trees encouraging you to use another route. The ridge at the road's end is burned (perhaps intentionally by the FS?). Slower going because of this. PCT had snow about a mile from Shale Lake. FS signs about the Pamelia Lake area include the Shale Lake area as part of the Limited Entry Area (we thought you only needed a permit for Hunts Cove or Pamelia Lake based on trip reports). Their sign says it is illegal for climbers to pass through the area to access the South Ridge. Take this info as you will.
Mike C Huntington - Aug 5, 2019 8:24 pm
Woodpecker RidgeMt. Jefferson
Our climb of Jefferson turned out to be at reconnaissance. John Shea and I went up Woodpecker Ridge starting a trailhead elevation 4400 feet, crossing the Pacific crest Trail at 5000 feet and then headed up a sketchy climbers trail through fallen burnt trees until we could reach snow field at 7000 feet, the first source of water for us. We used the most of our fuel melting snow into water and then headed up the Ridge at 5 AM. We turned back at about 8 AM realizing that we were low on energy and would not have been able to make to the summit and all the way back down to the trailhead at a reasonable hour in the evening. Not all was lost. We learned we need three days a for a successful climb and four canisters of fuel.
Plan to reattempt August 25-28. Want to join us? I am reachable at 541-829-1182 or mchuntington@gmail.com
utclimber - Jun 24, 2018 5:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2018
South Ridge Day HikeHiked the South Ridge in a little under 15 and a half hours round trip. Tried going up the SW Ridge but couldn't find the trail and turned back when the bushwhacking got bad. Summit pinnacle was still mostly snow covered.
Harvest - Aug 15, 2017 3:47 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2017
Jefferson Adventures* July 8, 2017: Ascent of the South Ridge Route. The approach is long but scenic. The camping was nice. The cruxes started at the Red Saddle and were lots of fun.
* June 4, 2018: Ascent of the Milk Creek: North Lobe Route. The approach is along Milk Creek and then heads Northeast along the small glacier to join the North Ridge Route. The Pinnacle was involved this trip and took us until the third pinnacle variation to gain the summit.
Noah (Oregon) - Jul 25, 2017 3:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2017
Jeff. Park Glacier BergschrundRejected. The bergschrund at the very top of the the Jefferson Park Glacier was a moat and wall that completely shut us down. Still, it was insanely beautiful and fun to climb with two axes and a lot of front pointing. We protected the climb with a lot of pickets. I'll be back to get the summit.
seano - Aug 2, 2016 6:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2016
SW ridgeI came in from the forest road just north of Pamelia to avoid the permit nonsense -- it may even be faster, and there is almost no bushwhacking. The climbers' trail is easy to miss, but pretty decent. The snow traverse is legit. Trip report.
setrent - Jul 6, 2016 11:38 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2016
Jeff Park GlacierA surprisingly aesthetic, challenging and varied route on a volcano. No others on the route, a difficult looking but surprisingly easy bergschrund, a no kidding knife edge ridge, and steep snice to finish. Early season critical for conditions.
YEM - Jun 27, 2016 1:45 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2016
South RidgeThis was my second attempt on Mt. Jefferson this year and it was very memorable. We were treated to hurricane force winds on the first night at our 7800 ft. camp along with 6 inches of snow. The next day we moved up to 8900 ft. and waited out the weather. Joel did a great job leading the technical sections and the traverse turned out to be the easiest section. The slope steepened as we made our way around to the North Ridge then encountered a short section of nearly vertical ice and a 5th class move to gain the summit ridge. This pushed both of us right up to our technical and physical limits. On our way down, we encountered three rope teams from the Colorado Mountaineering School. We were on the summit at 9:30 am and I was fortunate to make it back to see Flight of the Conchords live in Portland at 8 pm. Truly a magical day!
Josh Lewis - May 24, 2016 2:51 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015
From the SouthAfter crossing the snowfield beyond the red saddle, traverse as far as you reasonably can onto the north side. From there traverse westward as you go up towards the summit. Eventually you will end up on the right side of the summit. Go through the gully which will take you to the top.
This method will help bypass any class 4 stuff. My route is class 3 and is the easiest way to the summit. And I mean easy class 3. :-) Mostly solid rock too which was a pleasant surprise.
scgrant - Sep 16, 2015 12:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2015
Mount JeffersonAwesome climb with Jobe Wymore. Very straight forward hike up to the Red Saddle and then not so much. By far the sketchiest part of the entire hike is getting across the snowfield to reach the other side of the summit pinnacle. The scramble up to the top wasn't too bad although there were a couple sections of class 4 climbing.
olsenn - Sep 1, 2015 3:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2015
SW ridgeThe snow traverse was short, but still sketchy. At 11:30 on a reasonable warm day (in August!) the snow was just softening a little. I was very grateful I was on belay when I fell there. The team descending as we ascended hadn't gone far enough north to find the class 4 route. Go almost all the way to the north side before turning up or you'll be stuck. Descending the ridge that ends at Pamelia was almost as bad as I remembered. Next time I'd go the extra distance by going by Shale Lake hoping for a better route.
Mike Lewis - Jul 20, 2015 9:13 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015
S Ridge not much waterVery dry trip. We had to ration water carefully. Pamelia Lake looked nearly gone as did Shale Lake. Like Craig said, the traverse was serious business but the scramble turned out easy. Neat climb and glad I went.
Redwic - Jul 20, 2015 8:57 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015
Great climb!With Josh & Michael. Don't be fooled... there *is* an easy Class 3 climb of the summit block. It is not immediately obvious but it is there. The sketchiest part of the whole journey was the traverse after the Red Saddle. We were able to make some use of the moat, with two pitches using a 60m rope. Fantastic weather and views. I dedicated this climb to my recently deceased peakbagging buddy, Edward Earl.