YEM - Jan 8, 2023 10:12 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2022
NW Chute
Came to the high plateau from Meysan Lake a week earlier and got blanketed by a surprise snowfall. By the next week, conditions were perfect. The rope was thankfully still in the waterfall section and the rest of the route was quite enjoyable. Climbed McAdie and Mallory the day before.
Base camped at grass lake with Rick, Waide, and Steven. Climbed LeConte, Mallory, and Irvine with an overnight bivy on Mallory. Perfect weather and stellar views from the top.
wmolland - Aug 30, 2018 1:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2018
Ascending waterfalls
The route up to the plateau was pretty crappy, with lots of loose rock and sand. The waterfall pitch wasn't too terrible with climbing shoes, but we were certainly glad we had a rope.
Diesel - Jun 29, 2018 11:32 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2018
Waterfall Pitch is a winner.
Going up the NW chute I was thinking what to hike first; Mallory or LeConte. I decided for Mallory. I am glad I did. However, looking to LeConte from afar I made the judgement that the way to the summit had to be circling the mountain to the right, since the South/East face looked impossible to free climb. With that in mind I started my climb to the North and I keep dead ending in walls or drops. After 45 minutes of trying I decided to give up and turned around just to see a huge cairn toward the South side. I followed that ledge and I got to the Waterfall pitch, which I had no idea what it was until I saw it. I made my way up but I did not encounter a class 4. Either I bypassed it somehow or is just a very easy class 4. The approach for LeConte is nasty, but that Waterfall climb is very nice. When I got down to the top of the chute, I glissaded all the way down, using the ax to slow myself down and not go too fast. Yes my butt and legs were freezing, but it was a fast descend. All in all it took me 12 hours and 40 minutes car to car from Whitney Portal to bag both Mallory and LeConte.
Simkin - Oct 5, 2016 6:33 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2016
Northeast face
From Meysan lake via Northeast face. Descended West ridge.
Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNDGTjf_y2I
Romain - Sep 1, 2015 2:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2015
NW Chute
Last stop on a traverse from Mount Irvine and Mount Mallory. Short gully climb past a 4th class "waterfall" pitch. Good summit views, but we got snowed on on the summit so we did not linger. The descent back to Meysan Lake was a real pain (must be worse going up!). Trip report
Deb - Oct 25, 2014 10:39 am Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2014
NW Chute
Relatively easy dayhike with some tense moments descending loose chute. Waterfall pitch was fun, rapped down for safety. Gail force winds in the chute made the chute rather uncomfortable but great climbing.
BobD3 - Mar 15, 2014 8:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009
3
The waterfall pitch was my first experience with class 4. Really tough. Going solo, got wedged in the crack. It took 2 attempts to surpass and it was not easy.
Have climbed it twice since. Used a light rope to rappel the waterfall pitch. Same route. Was hoping to traverse further to Corcoran. Failed on both attempts.
One of the worst approaches I've ever been on. (From upper Meysan Lake). Still, a most noteworthy summit to attain.
Donno - Aug 11, 2013 10:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2004
NW Cute
Chris stopped at the "waterfall pitch"
Vic Hanson - Oct 21, 2012 1:28 am Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2012
#3
We hiked up the Meysan Lakes Trail and camped the 1st night on a saddle above the lake on the ridge up to Irvine. Then we traversed over to Mallory and LeConte before going down a gully and camping below Pickering. The next day we climbed Pickering, Joe Devel and Chamberlin and then down to Crabtree Lakes. The following day we went from Crabtree to the JMT and and climbed up Discovery Pinnacle before going down the Whitney Trail.
mrchad9 - Oct 1, 2012 5:26 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2012
NW Chute
Nice climb and view and liked the traverse to Corcoran even more.
Waterfall pitch wasn't too difficult on the ascent. Challenging on the descent if you don't use the sling.
Bill562 - Oct 31, 2011 11:23 am Date Climbed: Oct 30, 2011
From Meysan Lake
With Oleg R via NW chute. Challenging new late fall/early winter type snow.
Daria - Aug 15, 2010 9:13 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008
+
Nice peak, and even nicer summit
becquerel - Aug 2, 2010 10:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010
NW Chute
As SJ wrote, scrambling in loose rock was not so much fun, but the other parts on the solid rock are beautiful. Didn't have any problems in the famous Waterfall pitch, it's little tricky on the way down, but the holds and steps are pretty good.
SJ - Aug 1, 2010 1:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010
Uno
Scramble up to the summit plateau sucked, a lot of loose rock, but the climbing was great once we got to the solid stuff. Took the NW Chute.
Climber Dave - Sep 1, 2009 12:40 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009
Northwest chute
Climbed via the northwest chute, Good snow leading up to the LeConte/Mallory plateau, and loose rock and snow in the actual chute. All in all a really fun climb!!
cab - Aug 31, 2009 3:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2009
NW Chute from Meysan Lake
Left O.C. at 1am, started hiking at 5am. Probably the most miserable scree slog I have ever done above Meysan Lake. Waterfall pitch was a little hairy, especially since I was by myself, but I made it. Went over to Mallory too, and back to the car at 4pm, then drove 4 hours home. Long day! Love climbing peaks like this one that don't get much traffic. No one had signed the summit register for 2.5 weeks before I did.
derbilly - Aug 22, 2009 4:10 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2009
Challenge day 10
After getting past the crumbling gully above Meysan Lake, it was a nice climb to LeConte and over to Corcoran. I was aided by a generous cheater sling on the waterfall pitch, which is certainly class 4+ in my estimation. Overall, I was worn out from the previous 10 days of climbing and had to skip Mallory.
Shirley Lam - Aug 18, 2009 3:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009
up North face, down SW chute
Climbed with bighornmonkey and Miki...who did awesome on her first technical climb at altitude!
YEM - Jan 8, 2023 10:12 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2022
NW ChuteCame to the high plateau from Meysan Lake a week earlier and got blanketed by a surprise snowfall. By the next week, conditions were perfect. The rope was thankfully still in the waterfall section and the rest of the route was quite enjoyable. Climbed McAdie and Mallory the day before.
WayneFry - Sep 4, 2020 2:12 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2020
NW ChuteBase camped at grass lake with Rick, Waide, and Steven. Climbed LeConte, Mallory, and Irvine with an overnight bivy on Mallory. Perfect weather and stellar views from the top.
wmolland - Aug 30, 2018 1:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2018
Ascending waterfallsThe route up to the plateau was pretty crappy, with lots of loose rock and sand. The waterfall pitch wasn't too terrible with climbing shoes, but we were certainly glad we had a rope.
Diesel - Jun 29, 2018 11:32 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2018
Waterfall Pitch is a winner.Going up the NW chute I was thinking what to hike first; Mallory or LeConte. I decided for Mallory. I am glad I did. However, looking to LeConte from afar I made the judgement that the way to the summit had to be circling the mountain to the right, since the South/East face looked impossible to free climb. With that in mind I started my climb to the North and I keep dead ending in walls or drops. After 45 minutes of trying I decided to give up and turned around just to see a huge cairn toward the South side. I followed that ledge and I got to the Waterfall pitch, which I had no idea what it was until I saw it. I made my way up but I did not encounter a class 4. Either I bypassed it somehow or is just a very easy class 4. The approach for LeConte is nasty, but that Waterfall climb is very nice. When I got down to the top of the chute, I glissaded all the way down, using the ax to slow myself down and not go too fast. Yes my butt and legs were freezing, but it was a fast descend. All in all it took me 12 hours and 40 minutes car to car from Whitney Portal to bag both Mallory and LeConte.
Simkin - Oct 5, 2016 6:33 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2016
Northeast faceFrom Meysan lake via Northeast face. Descended West ridge.
Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNDGTjf_y2I
Romain - Sep 1, 2015 2:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2015
NW ChuteLast stop on a traverse from Mount Irvine and Mount Mallory. Short gully climb past a 4th class "waterfall" pitch. Good summit views, but we got snowed on on the summit so we did not linger. The descent back to Meysan Lake was a real pain (must be worse going up!). Trip report
Deb - Oct 25, 2014 10:39 am Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2014
NW ChuteRelatively easy dayhike with some tense moments descending loose chute. Waterfall pitch was fun, rapped down for safety. Gail force winds in the chute made the chute rather uncomfortable but great climbing.
BobD3 - Mar 15, 2014 8:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009
3The waterfall pitch was my first experience with class 4. Really tough. Going solo, got wedged in the crack. It took 2 attempts to surpass and it was not easy.
Have climbed it twice since. Used a light rope to rappel the waterfall pitch. Same route. Was hoping to traverse further to Corcoran. Failed on both attempts.
One of the worst approaches I've ever been on. (From upper Meysan Lake). Still, a most noteworthy summit to attain.
Donno - Aug 11, 2013 10:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2004
NW CuteChris stopped at the "waterfall pitch"
Vic Hanson - Oct 21, 2012 1:28 am Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2012
#3We hiked up the Meysan Lakes Trail and camped the 1st night on a saddle above the lake on the ridge up to Irvine. Then we traversed over to Mallory and LeConte before going down a gully and camping below Pickering. The next day we climbed Pickering, Joe Devel and Chamberlin and then down to Crabtree Lakes. The following day we went from Crabtree to the JMT and and climbed up Discovery Pinnacle before going down the Whitney Trail.
mrchad9 - Oct 1, 2012 5:26 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2012
NW ChuteNice climb and view and liked the traverse to Corcoran even more.
soslaw - Sep 29, 2012 11:18 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2012
NW ChuteWaterfall pitch wasn't too difficult on the ascent. Challenging on the descent if you don't use the sling.
Bill562 - Oct 31, 2011 11:23 am Date Climbed: Oct 30, 2011
From Meysan LakeWith Oleg R via NW chute. Challenging new late fall/early winter type snow.
Daria - Aug 15, 2010 9:13 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008
+Nice peak, and even nicer summit
becquerel - Aug 2, 2010 10:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010
NW ChuteAs SJ wrote, scrambling in loose rock was not so much fun, but the other parts on the solid rock are beautiful. Didn't have any problems in the famous Waterfall pitch, it's little tricky on the way down, but the holds and steps are pretty good.
SJ - Aug 1, 2010 1:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010
UnoScramble up to the summit plateau sucked, a lot of loose rock, but the climbing was great once we got to the solid stuff. Took the NW Chute.
Climber Dave - Sep 1, 2009 12:40 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009
Northwest chuteClimbed via the northwest chute, Good snow leading up to the LeConte/Mallory plateau, and loose rock and snow in the actual chute. All in all a really fun climb!!
cab - Aug 31, 2009 3:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2009
NW Chute from Meysan LakeLeft O.C. at 1am, started hiking at 5am. Probably the most miserable scree slog I have ever done above Meysan Lake. Waterfall pitch was a little hairy, especially since I was by myself, but I made it. Went over to Mallory too, and back to the car at 4pm, then drove 4 hours home. Long day! Love climbing peaks like this one that don't get much traffic. No one had signed the summit register for 2.5 weeks before I did.
derbilly - Aug 22, 2009 4:10 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2009
Challenge day 10After getting past the crumbling gully above Meysan Lake, it was a nice climb to LeConte and over to Corcoran. I was aided by a generous cheater sling on the waterfall pitch, which is certainly class 4+ in my estimation. Overall, I was worn out from the previous 10 days of climbing and had to skip Mallory.
Shirley Lam - Aug 18, 2009 3:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009
up North face, down SW chuteClimbed with bighornmonkey and Miki...who did awesome on her first technical climb at altitude!