My long time buddy, Tim Bester and I climbed Mt. Lyautey via the north west glacier, then a large gully system, then the faint north west ridge. Tim has skied both north Lyautey glaciers many times, both in the summer and the winter, and when we called me up looking for a peak bagging day, I thought Lyautey would fit the bill.
Our plan was to climb the north west glacier to the high col on Lyautey’s west ridge, then climb the west ridge to the summit. Tim has skied from this col several times, but when we arrived the col was mostly ice and the exit to gain the west ridge proper was too tough for us. We spied a large gully system descending from the summit block. At most the gully was moderate scrambling. The gully ended at a large wall below the summit, here we traversed to the faint NW ridge. We then easily followed this ridge to the summit, descent via the same route.