I took the route described by Eric Hoffman. Class 3 and the start was very close to my campsite in the upper basin. Camp at the moraine between 7FJ and Maude if doing both in a two day trip. The wide scree gully below the normal route was a quick dirty descent back to camp. Gaiters are recommended.
Started at 4:30 a.m. from Leroy Basin to climb two unfamiliar mountains. Except for a nasty snow gully the trail led us right to the Maude/Ice Lake cirque. Contoured up from there. Easy climb, great views. 4 hours from camp.
Climbed the north face with Keith and Chris via Ice Lakes and Entiat glacier. The route was in good shape, the climbing never too difficult, in a very remote setting. More details from the climb are in my trip report.
The North face was in good condition, what a bomber climb!
Great Conditions, fun route.
Nice fall weekend summiting 7-finger and Maude, and spending some time wandering around the Ice Lakes.
One day car to summit. It's hard carrying a three-day pack up that Leroy Creek Trail.
I could spend a long time in this area. Hope to reture soon and do Seven Fingers and a few others.
Traversed over from Seven fingered Jack above the Leroy Creek Basin. Ran into a deep loose morraine and scrambled across it at its head on very loose granite. Eventually I found the Carne Mountain Trail and took it up to the saddle on the west ridge of Maude. From there I could see the traverse over to the Southwest Ridge. On my way there I ran into a father and son who were quite overweight and panting sitting down. The father was dressed in silver shiny shorts with red suspenders (no shirt). All he said was, "Contrary to popular belief, there is no ice in Ice Lake." Well...........uh.............ok, and I was off again.
I made the saddle from the saddle on 7FJ in an hour. Another half hour and I was on the third saddle of the day on the SW ridge. From there, you can see the heartbreak ahead as you have to descend several hundred feet to a boulder field to then catch the ridge back up to the summit. So, down I went constantly thinking about how much daylight I had left. Made the other ridge in about 45 minutes and my second wind began to fade. The slopes from there on up to the summit are easy but go on for a while. It's like one of those nightmares where you are in a hallway that never ends while you run down it. Was about another 45 minutes up to the summit where I found a register to sign. All in all it was 3 hours for me on a fast pace from the saddle on 7FJ to the summit of Maude going this way. Got down and then bushwhacked back to the basin from the morraine where I lost the trail again. Took me about an hour and a half and was at camp before sundown.
Apparently, silver shorts walked through our camp and my friends saw him so it turned out not to be a hallucination I had. Also, be careful crossing that morraine gully. It was like 4th class boulders sitting in sand. I knocked down some couch-cushion sized rocks that would have taken anyone out who had been below me. That was probably the crux of the whole day.
Very cool area. Amazing place.
Fogged in the entire time. We ended up doing some w face variation.
The standard approach via the Leroy Creek camp. Very little snow to cross, mainly in the bowl above Ice Lake. Mainly just a slog up the scree and rock fields to the summit. Glorious day!
Climbed Fernow and Sevn Fingered Jack in the previous 2 days. Again set out from the basin at 5:30 a.m. Weather was a factor (started moving in) but continued the climb. Summit was great but a bit cloudy and overcast. Came down soon after reaching the summit to avoid the storm that was approaching.
It was extremely dry and temperatures soaring close to 100 degrees. We had a grueling climb from Leroy Basin of 6000+ feet of large rock and scree.
Shortly before setting up camp, a couple of climbers came down. One of them had a badly busted knee with blood all over his pants, and another climber suffered injuries to two of his fingers. They had started up the west face, but didn't get very far (probably a blessing in disguise considering their injuries). The uninjured climber looked frustrated and unhappy. I didn't get all the details of their accidents, but they appeared to be otherwise okay, and were headed down after being treated.
On our way down, I sent an end table-sized rock hurling down to my partner. He demanded that next time I put his name on it. Despite all the rock fall and scree nastiness, it was a worthwhile climb. Once on the southwest ridge, the climb was more straight forward, and we had much more stable rock to deal with. On the west face below, we experienced major rock fall and nasty scree. It was so hot and arid that despite after drinking a gallon water up to base camp on the first day, and 1 1/2 gallons on summit day, I only had to pee one time!
The unique summit views were awesome. Unfortunately, we also had the incredible view of wildfires in the distant NE (Twisp area?). One of the smoke clouds had the uncanny look of a mushroom cloud. The strong winds quickly scattered all the smoke into a brown haze that blanketed the NE horizon.
We did this climb as a day trip from a basecamp in Leroy Creek Basin. An awesome route from camp to summit. Highly recommended!
A fairly thin line midway between the North Face wall proper and the Entiat Icefall. Early season (now) the entire route is hard firn snow and ice, the first ascent party reported a pitch of rock to enter the couloir. The ascent is very direct - you can see the Northeast ridge (cornice) from the avalanche cone at the base of the route and it is subject to objective hazard from rock and ice fall. Make sure it is cold and solid, finish the route early. We were on the glacier apron at 8:30am and topped out on the NE ridge at 12:30pm or so. A short scramble to the summit. Beware the cornice. Rock was generally loose and there were very few belay or rest platforms. The couloir is about 1800 ft or so of 50-60+ degree ice and snow. None of the ice was hard or thick enough for us to trust a screw. Snow was hard and solid. Started snowing while we were on the summit. Very nice alpine climb. FA party (Yoder and Spanager Aug '78) did not grade it. We call it Alpine III+/ IV. We had screws and pickets but used neither. The 2nd tool was required! See the route photo from Beckey Vol 2, p.173. We approached from Ice Lakes and around Marmot Pyramid.
It was perfect weather for the climb from our climb in the Leroy Creek basin. After arriving on the south ridge at the saddle above Upper Ice Lake we dropped to the east side of the ridge and climbed on snow to a point where the ridge could again be attained. Then it was a romp on the wide ridge to the summit. The scenery is magnificent. On the way down we tried another route on the SE slope that eventually led back to the same snowfields we had ascended. A very enjoyable mountain!