Attempted to climb McLoughlin during the winter. Turned back at 8000+ because of time considerations so we would not get stuck in the woods at night time. Proved to be harder than expected because of the length of the snowshoeing and tree cover that made it difficult to know where you were on the mountain. I recommend if you want to improve your chances for success to climb it in two days during the winter.
An alpine ridge that didn't seem to end, a few high angled snowfields, nice donkey stable on the top. With Beth Filip, a ski racer from New Hampshire. Hammered this out in preparation for Shasta, taunting me in the haze to the south. Loved it.
The original plan was to climb Mount Rainer, but my work didn’t allow me to get Friday through Tuesday off so I had to change plane tickets/destinations. Plans were changed to Mount McLoughlin since it’s a solitary mountain and I had too many peaks on the wish list for areas like the Three Sisters or Crater Lake that could be completed in just a weekend.
My son wanted to join me as well so we flew to Medford late Friday night. The next morning we picked up a rental car and had to go shopping, so we didn’t begin the climb of Mt McLoughlin until 10:30 AM. We made good time up the mountain and found ourselves on the summit for a late lunch.
The skies were completely cloud free, but there was much smoke in the air from forest fires down south, so the views were a bit disappointing since we couldn’t see Mt Shasta or the Three Sisters. It was still a nice climb and we made it down the mountain rather quickly and with plenty of time to set of camp at Lake of the Woods and to have a nice BBQ buffet there. The only mishap was that there were many hornets on the way down and I got stung twice.
By the time I got to the TH parking lot, there were already 25 cars there, and a couple more came right after me. Made it to the top in 2:22, 30 min. on top, and down in 2:08, which included going to help rescue a hiker who had lost the trail on the way down and was yelling for help. I met a group on the way down that I had passed going up and he asked if I did this every weekend. I said no, I'm retired and do it every day. Actually that was a bit of an exaggeration, I just checked and this was only my 16 mountain so far in August. But most of the non-peak days included hiking, as well as driving. Have had a great time in the Cascades this month! Now heading down to California for some more. BTW, there is a glass jar on the 2nd of the summit rock piles with a few pieces of paper in it but no real notebook type register.
I car-camped at the Mount McLoughlin TH before setting out at 5:20 AM for an early morning hike. 4h40m roundtrip (2h30m up, 10m summit, 2h0m down). I found the trail to be a little boring, but the final 1000' of scree-gain and the summit views made it worth the trip. No summit register, though.
I had enough time to backtrack to Medford midday and see "The Dark Knight Rises" during its opening weekend. Then I had dinner with a peakbagging friend and his wife, before heading east for a few hikes in Lake County the following day.
This was the first of seven Top 100 peaks summited in Oregon during a 3-1/2 day timeframe.
Fri the 13th, spent more time getting the car unstuck from the snow than climbing, but the climb was superb.
Great hike. Tons of mosquitoes down below. Glissading down was epic.
My Dog made it to the top. Got lost on the way out. Mosquitoes chased us to the car. Good times
Awesome workout, with awesome rewards on top... climbed to the top in 2.5 hrs with no stops on the way up. If you are experienced I totally reccomend doing what we did. Climb with headlamps before light, so you reach the top before the heat of the day.
Bush whacking through the Doug Firs in white out conditions to cut a few turns off the summit ridge
Double ice tooled my way up 45 degree NE face about half way to summit. With warm temps and late start, snow got too slushy so joined back to E ridge half way up. Will go back when colder to solo ice climb entire NE or NW face. Very nice summit, views (Shasta to Sisters), and environment. Great mountain.
Climbed to the summit in a little over 4 hrs. Great ski down the upper part of the mountain, but ended up descending the wrong way and wound up at Four Mile Lake. A couple miles of hiking on snow-covered roads brought me back to the car in a little over 7 hrs round trip.
Access roads were still snowed in so a long approach from the Summit SnoPark. Beautiful sunny cool day provided excellent views from the top.
Beautiful trip up from the lot and screaming descent on the board.
Climbed in snowing conditions with my wife Anna and enjoyed a memorable 100 ft. of visibility on the summit; interestingly enough, we were not alone! The trail (painted dot route) above treeline is difficult to follow if not a crappy route in general; we moved quickly once deciding to stay on the rocks near ridge line while ascending. On the descent, we again attempted to follow the "painted dot route", but lost it a few times. A word of warning: don't be stupid and descend below the dot route; you may get lost like a few people that day and/or find yourself surfing on some loose as hell scree -- if you loose the route on descent, just traverse to the ridge and you will certainly pick it up again. We both thought the route was enjoyable despite the weather however the people we saw climing in shorts and cotton T's might have a different opinion. This was my 5th Cascade Volcano.
This is my third time summiting Mt. McLoughlin. Surprisingly this year there was a lot of snow (previous years I had done it on October 14th the previous year). Luckily the trail wasn't too bad to start (patches of snow in places), up to the shoulder of the ridge at around 8000 feet. From there the snow got progressively deeper until the summit which was around 3-4 feet deep (for the last 50-100 feet). Not a bad climb for someone in shape...I enjoy doing it every year.
Update: Found the pictures from the first ascent and now I have the date of that.
The weather in Oregon has been really cruddy the entire month of June, so the 4th of July weekend was perfect for a quick scramble. Zero clouds and almost no wind on the summit; was perfect with the view easily extending to Shasta and the Three Sisters.
I may have sort of sandbaged my friend Abby a little on this trip. The weather was worse than expected, especially for wearing a t-shirt and shorts, and the mosquitos were kamikaze! But the climb was fun and a fellow climber shared the most delicious mango with me on the summit.
Fun XC ski ascent and descent with a friend.