I was able to ascend the Loft Route without the aid of cramp-ons this day with my friend Dave. I wouldn't recommend crossing the snowfields below the Meeker & Longs saddle without them though. At least bring an ice axe. A slip on this route could be "game over" in many areas.
Total ascents = 4. A worthy partner for Longs Peak ... too bad it missed by only 89 feet of being a 14'er ... maybe not.
My first real alpine climbing season was capped with this one. A 16-hour day and everything from rain, snow to hail. Will remember forever.
Fun scramble along the knife ridge.
A very exciting traverse across the knife-edge. Climbed it twice. One time was an unsuccessful traverse attempt to go from Meeker, to Longs, and then to Pagoda. Unfortunately, got off route from Meeker to Longs. Look out for misleading cairns on the loft. You will be off-route if you follow them.
Mount Meeker is overshadowed by Longs Peak, but it should not be overlooked.
1995 Climbed Meeker via the Loft on the way up to Longs. Descended Keyhole.
2005 Dreamweaver, descended Loft. Mediocre conditions. Very little ice, lots of snow and some short rock steps. We were very sad to read reports of good ice a week or two later. Descent was sketchy. Dislodged a basketball sized rock above the ledge that shattered the shaft of my partner's ice axe. Had he not done the wrong thing by looking up when I yelled rock allowing him to leap out of the way, it would have been his helmet in front of the rock. Also, the sun got very hot very quickly and ledge traverse on loft was very slushy slide prone snow. It didn't help that I was totally freaked about the rock.
Climbed this on the way to Long's. Perfect clear weather and we had the summit to ourselves.
My first real experience with an ice axe and crampons!
Had perfect weather. Completed after doing Longs Peak.
Made it about 50 vertical feet from the east summit and my hiking poles started buzzing. Made a speedy descent in snowstorms...about a quarter inch fell by the time a got back to the top of the iron gates gully. Incredible route, but I want to cross that ridge!! Another day :(
Climbed Loft route with fellow SP'er richardmasoner on Labor Day 2005. Met Richard at 3:10 at Goblin's Forest, where he'd bivouaced, and summitted at 8:45am (after a frozen 5am-6am wait for dawn at Chasm patrol cabin). Route itself was straightforward, but climb was somewhat difficult because gusty winds and cooler temperatures sapped our strength quickly. Decided Layne Bracy's and rangers' interpretation of summit boulder was correct (see that trip report), and attained western high point but did not traverse to eastern boulder, because winds put us off-balance continuously once above the Loft. Original plan was to continue around to summit Longs and descend via Keyhole, but we abandoned this plan because of wind and fatigue, and descended via Loft.
Perfect weather, two other people on the summit. So much better than the summit of Longs!
3:00 am left Sandbeach Trailhead
9:30 reached summit
3:00 pm finished
Great mountain, tiny summit, long day
The weather and trail conditions were perfect.
Be sure to hit Dreamweaver in the right conditions. We didn't.
Good to come back and get ths one - Very Nice!
Weather and route conditions were perfect today! The route had (4) short sections of waterfall ice and the alpine ice was very well consolidated (a pair of ice tools each was key)! Jason & I left the TH at 3:20AM and were complete with the route at 9:20AM (the route itself took us just over 2 hours!). KEEP IN MIND THAT THE CONDITIONS ON THIS ROUTE CAN CHANGE FROM ONE DAY TO THE NEXT... See THIS photo of the route from 5/28/05!
Made it to Chasm just in time to catch the full alpen glow on Long's Peak. Ascended the loft route on a cold and VERY windy day. I was almost blown off the rocks on my approach the summit. Glad to have made it to the top. One of the most memorable scrambles in RMNP.
I was unfortunate in finding that parking this holiday weekend was well below the Longs Peak TH, despite my starting time...hmmm. Regardless, I made excellent time reaching the Chasm Lake shelter and taking a break. I could now look up the couloir and ledges that I would soon ascend and be thankful that there was no early fall snow on the route. Being in RMNP, this route is clearly marked and obvious, unlike most 13ers. The tricky traverse to the east along the north face is an exciting place, but I was thrilled it was dry.
Once on the flats of the Loft, the summit block of Longs is impressive! An easy stroll to the western true summit was made in solitude, as was the entire route up from Chasm Lake. There was a small party on the lower eastern summit, hopefully having reached the true summit, and I didn't encounter another climber on the route until back down in the north facing couloir. Although a long approach, this is a beautiful mountain and route, and worthy of all willing to bypass the crowds on Longs.