This is a great mountain to climb, with superb views of Darwin. I climbed from the Darwin saddle up the East Face in a couple of hours. Perfect weather, and nice climbing in Evolution Basin.
Last with Alois via Right Mendel Couloir
First with Dale via Right Mendel Couloir (July, 1981)
Climbed the east face, then went right to the NE ridge near the top. Followed the NE ridge through a keyhole to the summit.
Dark gray skies all day.
With Steve E. and Mike B.
all part of a long fun day
Mendel Right: Fun climb with Max. 3 ropes of ice with loose snow on some of it.
8/24/2013: 27 hour c2c climb of Evolution Traverse.
Climbed with Kevin and Moosetracks. Nice and easy hike in on Saturday but it was a long Sunday. 3 roped pitches with about half on ice, half on snow and rock.
loose class 2 till the head wall.
E. Face to the NE ridge was the easiest way I could find and that last bit to the summit is cl 4.
No pencil in register
On the way from Tom Ross and Darwin for the Sierra Challenge. Mostly just crappy sand and talus, but I popped up to the NE ridge near the top for some fun. Trip report
couldnt find the left avoidance, so had to lead the 5.9 crack on rap cord. luckily no incident. traverse to darwin from peak 13385 (north ridge aka evolution ridge) with doug
Got within 70 feet from the summit and explored multiple options, included the supposed 3rd class route-was blocked off by 4th/5th class overhanging sections or large 5th class boulders. Tried and exhausted all options, including east approach along summit ridge.
After a nine-month absence from the Sierra - Totally loved climbing this ridge and found it quite aesthetic with beautiful granite and bountiful holds. The east face descent, on the other hand, was total bullshit. Perfect weather and dreamy partner - loved it!
Deb and I made a successful ascent of Mendel via the Northeast Ridge (more like an arete). Been wanting to get on this for years after oogling over the steep northern flanks of Mendel. We both agreed that the route is solid 4th class (especially at the bottom) with fun wild exposure! One of my Top 5 scrambles (4th class and below) in the Sierra. I would HIGHLY recommend this climb! Thanks for the adventure Love!
BTW, the East Face is one of the ugliest sections on Mendel. Unfortunately, this was the option we took for the descent. Lots of loose 3rd class. The only enjoyable part was the downclimb from the headwall (4th class). If you're considering this as an ascent, pass it up! :P
CLIMBED WITH PAUL DANIEL FROM THE DARWIN GLACIER AFTER BAGGING DARWIN
Summitted via the ridge from the first unnamed peak, attempting to do the whole Evolution traverse. We kept thinking we were on top of Mendel after a few false summit plateaus. Then we finally saw the real Mendel, and it was freaking FAR away! Bailed after Darwin due to bonking and heavy pack. Next time: more food, lighter pack.
Secor's directions for the correct chute were confusing but the giant cairn at the top of the chute I took signified that others had been fooled as well. The ridge was the best part of the climb. Peak #6 on JMT adventure.
Climbed the east face after doing the North Face of Darwin but screwed up the route doing the top part of the northeast ridge making it more time consuming than need be. After descending the correct route, I can say that the East Face is not very aesthetic, but the mountain does offer a nice summit view to Darwin and Evolution Basin below.
Climbed the right Mendel couloir with MichaelJ. Conditions as of August 26, 2006 were all neve to the chockstone. After that, you have glassy ice for about one 60m pitch. Then, it's mixed 4th class (low 5th) loose rock for another half pitch. The ice goes all the way to the notch narrowing down to 3ft wide at the top. Michael and I roped up for 1 pitch and solo'ed the rest. Bergshrund is easily crossed on climber's left. I went to take a look at the right side of the 'shrund and it had an approx 15-foot wide separation. Started out at 5:36am from a camp (elev ~ 11,800')near the east-most lake on Darwin Canyon. Took us about 3 hrs from the bergshrund to the notch. Summited around 11:15am or so. Back in camp around 1:30pm (8 hrs camp-to-camp).
Day 4 of the 2005 Sierra Challenge. Thanks to Ron Hudson for leading us up the loose East face gullies