Mount Moran Climber's Log

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Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Jul 19, 2003 7:52 pm

Route Climbed: CMC Date Climbed: July 13-14, 2003

Did not summit. We turned back on our summit day before reaching the technical section due to extreme nausea and vomiting. I think it was something we ate the day before, but maybe it was altitude. Who knows? Either way, this peak requires 100% health and desire which neither of us possessed that day. Don't go away....we'll be back for some unfinished business. It's a spectacular peak and worthy of another attempt.


PellucidWombat - Jun 16, 2003 11:37 pm

Route Climbed: CMC Date Climbed: August, 2002

Beautiful mountain. I kayaked across Leigh Lake and scrambled up the wash below the hanging glacier below the CMC. Definitely the most scenic campsite I've ever had. It's too bad my climbing partners' incessant tobacco and marijuana smoking made me too sick to continue the next day. I'll definitely have to head back to finish this great climb!


asmrz - Jan 2, 2003 7:27 am

Route Climbed: Direct South Buttress, V+, 5.8, A1 all the way to the top, Date Climbed: August 11-12 , 1987

Bill Krause and I climbed this mega-classic and historic route in 1987. Bill told me about this being one of the longest mountaineering routes in the lower US, if you go all the way to the summit of Mt. Moran. I recall thinking how well the route was put together, because on both sides of it, is much more difficult rock. The line weaves its way among very steep, technical terrain. We thought at the time, that this was truly Classic Teton Alpine climb. We found the rating about IV+, 5.8, A1, there was no difficult aid on it. We used BD Stoppers to aid the hard (5.12) section. Once past the top of the buttress, the climbing is never harder than 5.7, but many roped pitches and a lot of scrambling is required to reach the summit. If you go all the way to the summit (recommended and Grade V+) take a three day permit, especially if you are not very familiar with Tetons backcountry. Superb, quality route in great alpine setting.

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