We went up the left side of the east slope in the bowl. Some loose rock but not too bad and it was a nice class 2/3 scramble. Descended the use trail on the right side of the east slope. Seemed loose and miserable. We were glad we went up and down the way we did.
Up via East Slope variation, down via regular East Slope route. The latter must be much better as an ascent route, as Secor claims, since there is a use trail most of the way up. I found the variation very loose and slow going, especially the portion just above Convict Lake. I would recommend going up the normal way. On the plus side, neither option involves much in the way of routefinding issues, and the scrambling is very straightforward (nothing harder than class 2).
Beautiful mountain to look at, tough one to climb. East slope route had one nice stretch of firm footing and that was the area noted in the approach description as a "jumble of boulders", the creek bed. There's no boulders here. Only flat, firm rock.
Further up, above the upper saddle, the route became enjoyable class 3 to skirt snowfields. That rock also was 90% firm.
I was pushed off this peak at last Oct. due to high winds, low temps. at 10,500. Really nice to make the summit this time.
Went up with Sierra Mountaineering Club. Took the East Slope Variation. Slept up at the ~11,000 ft saddle, hit the summit the next day. Perfect weather, great climb.
With Mark from Convict Lake.
7 hours car to car.
The Northwest Ridge in my opinion is mostly class 2/3 with some class 4 moves sprinkled in. The class four seems to be concentrated in the first quarter of the climbing. The rock was of course loose, and it seems far too dangerous for much off ridge exploring. Saw some destroyed cordelette up there and couldn't imagine the party that decided to even try and protect or build an anchor in that rock.
Car to car in 5 hours.
Did not study the route beta enough and tried gaining the ridge from the North cirque instead of lower down. Ended up in what I believe is the famed "Death Couloir." Climbed the majority of it before ditching; deep, unconsolidated snow was making it nearly impossible for us to get onto the rock and finish the route. We had enough time for another attempt via a shallower couloir, however snow had begun falling and the winds were starting to whip, so we retreated back to the relative warmth of Convict Lake.
It's hard to ignore this prominent summit when driving down 395. It's been on my 'want' list for quite a while, and I'm so happy to finally have summited. The class 2-ish scramble is fun with some tricky routefinding along the way. Lots of dead ends in steep terrain, but very rewarding once figured out.
An unexpected bonus while on a trip with a DPS group finishing on Glass Mountain the day before. The last time up there was in 1970!
Had intended on climbing Baldwin but I think I had food poisoning, so decided to just crawl up the west slope. And no idea it was White Fang until I looked over the east side. Fun traverse from north rock cropping to true summit - this is not choss, it's CHALK!
Reading the descriptions online is misleading with this peak, we did a lot of research and ended up underestimating it. It is only 3 mi from Convict Lake, but that last mile is a lot of altitude gain and either class 2/3 or choss. Around 11200' the route finding becomes quite difficult, a lot of the cairns up there are misleading and we ended up doing some unexpected Class 3 when we followed the wrong ones. With some luck we were able to summit, but ended up getting down a lot later than expected. There were some afternoon T-storms in the valley that concerned us (I didn't like the idea of trying to climb down that rock when its wet) however they never came over to Morrison. All that being said, I had a blast and would do it again, just would probably leave a lot earlier so I could take my time on that last part and not have to worry about weather.
I did not particularly enjoy this route, and if it weren't for the obvious beauty and prominence of this peak, I probably wouldn't recommend it to anyone. The approach up to the Hanging Valley from Convict Lake was hellacious without trekking poles. Also, after the saddle between Little Morrison and Morrison, I headed too far south before attempting to ascend the East Face and missed the line designated in red on the photo in the route description. I think I ended up ascending somewhere in between the red and blue lines on that photo. This was a bad mistake. I've never climbed so slowly--and out of cautious fear and trepidation, no less. The rock here was extremely loose, and the runout behind me involved big drops over the steep side of aretes and/or cliffs. I was so glad after I finally made the summit to see an obvious use trail below it. This was the standard route I missed on the way up, and I followed it back to the saddle. This route was far less stressful. If you're going to attempt the East Face for the first time and want some beta, my advice is to make every effort to locate the cairns and follow the use trail to the summit; getting off route on this mountain greatly increases your risk of a fatal slip.
Definitely got to do some bushwhacking but a great day out, anyway.
From day use parking lot, headed straight uphill and met the dry creek. I just make a bee-line. Found myself in some Class 4+ territory cuz I wasn't interested in a mile of scree. A little tense for a moment but I pulled it off by climbing 2 different rock formations. Beautiful day up there. Was drinking a beer at the Convict store 7 hrs later. :)
Crotch-deep powder to barely front-pointing on thick 6" crust...we climbed NE face of Mono Jim and had a splendid ski descent....until we got to the frecious bushes and rocks barely covered in powder. AARRG!
Did not find the use trail on the way up, so I stayed on the ridge all the way up. It was a good choice since rocks were more solid than the loose. Found the used trail on the way down.
Solo first time 95, with Brent, Francisco, Jesse 98, baptism in tarn following climb.
Accended the northwest ridge from Convict lake with an SMG team of nine climbers at 6:15 am. Returned back to base camp via the east slope at 7:15 pm. The loose rock and exposure on the accent route made for an exciting and dangerous climb. I think everyone should climb this route at least once. It's tedious that for sure but very rewarding at the end of the day.
Climbed with brother Andrew, winter soltice 1986 -- hanging out in Mammoth waiting for enough snow to ski; we did this just to have something to do other than play bridge.
5th peak in 5 days. Decided I had had enough Sierra 4th/5th class and the bigger packs associated with the,. Did this one as a nice easy day to finish the trip.