Via Koven and then a week later via East Ridge
Beautiful Climb with Anneka. A perfect weather day allowed our late 2:30p summit. I underestimated Koven coulior, much steeper than expected. Highly variable snow was fun/scary but infinitly better than late season scree. Next time i will leave a sleeping bag and bivy sac at ampitheatre.
This was a nasty climb. The Koven, when not filled with snow, is entirely filled with scree, trickling water and very large boulders that move. The downclimb is tedious through this section. We ended up making 7 repells (more like roped downclimbing) through the Koven on the way down. For the pro this peak is probably no big deal, but for the weekend warrior/amateur like myself, this thing was horrendous. I am sure that there was an easier route this time of year, but lack of knowledge of the mountain limits options. To provide prospective, in my opinion the Grand was easier and so was The DC on Rainier. Yes, I would probably do it again though.
I climbed Mt. Owen twice in 1996, including a July 20/21 ascent of the Serendipity Arete. Paul Nash and I started hiking up Cascade Canyon at dawn, eventually crossed the creek, and bushwacked up into Valhalla Canyon. We got to within one pitch of the summit at sunset and bivied right there (we brought gear). Wild! We summitted first thing in the morning and then made an inelegant descent back down to Valhalla Canyon. Glissading down the canyon, I almost got sucked into a stream hole in the snow. Another close call in the Tetons!
My first alpine solo. Took a scary fall getting onto the summit block. A defining climb for me.
My kind of climb! With Paul Dowdy, my Bro. Nice mix of easy snow and rock, with great views and exposure. I think I changed into and out of my crampons twelve times!
Soloed the East Ridge.
Summited via the east ridge on a beautiful and perfect early summer day, after spending the night just below the Teton Glacier. Lots of snow for this time of year but still managed to get in some rock work as well. Descent was via the Koven route.
Serendipity Arete, 8/19/95
North Ridge, 8/6-8/98
East Ridge, 7/3/05
Cathedral Traverse, via Upper Koven Route, 8/13-14/08
Camped on the Glacier below the Koven.
Great climb! Incredible views and nice exposure... it's a long day, though, so if you've got the time camp up by amphitheater lake.
Great mix of snow and rock. The hike in is great. The scenery after Amphitheater Lake is tremendous. Get a good alpine start to ensure good firm snow/ ice in the coulior.
Was there with bthere, and this stands as one of the finest Teton rock routes around. I remember something like 15 pitches of belayed climbing, with superb exposure, exquisite granite and splendid views of Valhalla Canyon and the North Face of the Grand from the Summit. This is a serious undertaking and requires a significant amount of time from any approach, although I would recommend the Valhalla Canyon approach for it's wild beauty and remote location.
When descending from the summit, rappel to the SOUTH and not the east. You will save yourself hours of agonizing traversing and loose downclimbing.
14 pitches of superb Teton rock, and a fantastic look at the Grand North Face. We mistakenly took the rappel for the East side climbs, and had to scramble back up to the Southwest Ridge for the descent to Valhalla canyon. If you go, rappel straight down to the ridga and ignore the nest of rappel slings to the East. This is a great route, solid 5.7 with difficult pitches all the way to the top. The 5.9 (or A0) move on the 11th or 12th pitch was draining after so much rock and in the thinner air at 12,000 feet.
My first non-guided alpine experience. I connected with a great experienced partner (Michael Doyle) who put up with my lack of experience. I had a great time.
Thanks Mike !