Climbed in 1 day from Lupine meadows via amphitheater lake. Koven was mostly melted out but the chimney above it was not and we got a bit of a shower. Interesting views from the top with smoke from wildfires filling the valley. Took just under 20 hours car to car.
We did the Koven. Long route with lots of variety (crampons on/crampons off/crampons on/crampons off). The snow in the couloir was steep and icy. The crux chimney seemed harder than 5.4. Had to climb through a literal waterfall in the first chimney. Memorable route with many amazing views. We had it to ourselves.
With Chris & Reza
I climbed the Koven Route on Mt Owen with JD Sacklin in July of 2012. We did it in a "day" meaning we brought no camping gear, although we spent almost 36 hours out. We started from the car at about 3 AM and were on top of Owen by about 5 PM. By the time we got back down to the Teton Glacier it was getting dark, and we ended up spending the night disoriented, exhausted and shivering as we made our way down the endless glacial moraine. We made it back to the car just as the sun was rising.
8/16/12 Via Koven Chimney/ Traverse from Teewinot (Part of Grand Traverse)
Climbed this with an Exum Guide. One of my favorite Teton experiences
Fun mixture of rock/snow/mixed climbing, with an amazing view of the Grand. This is an awesome mountain.
where do start?
climbed an east ridge/koven combo w/steve on this thrilling, challenging and exhausting 17 hour day! we climbed to the teewinot-owen saddle and spent hours on end making our way through technical snow and rock(5.6/5.7) pitches on our way to owen's summit.
if that wasn't enough, we had a thrilling decent adventure of 11 rappels down the koven couloir and the ledges to its immediate west. at its terminus, we found ourselves on the teton glacier leaving us with only a long stroll back to camp, yet we were able to gather some much needed water en route.
Did the Koven Route. This was the last of the Teton Cathedral peaks that i bagged. this was a really cool climb.
August 13-14, 2008: Did the upper Koven with dunsum as part of the Cathedral Traverse from Teewinot to Owen to the Grand. A great two days in the mountains.
Lots of snow for the 4th of July. Steep and challenging. I gained some snow climbing experience. Amazing view of the North Face of the Grand. 5 star route.
We bagged the go for the full traverse due to a sick partner, but rallied up the Koven route before we bailed. Three steps on snow at the time, but it looks like we caught the last weekend of summer in the Tetons.
Tagged Owen from the upper Koven after summiting Teewinot earlier. We were gunning for the traverse, but our third climber was feeling the altitude. Down the Koven we went!
Had the route to ourselves.
Up the Koven solo on a good day. Only saw on other person up high on the peak. My only time there, but what an amazing peak. The view of the Grand is mystical. The Koven route is such a great scramble.
Successful both times.
Koven-- long day, fun, easy climbing in flawless weather.
Serendipity in a day-- Started on the wrong Arete-- oops! Nasty choss and death blocks until we got back onto Serendipity several pitches later. Aid chimney pitch is a lot of fun! We planned to bivy on the Grandstand for a linkup of Serendipity and the North Ridge of the Grand. Weather turned nasty, so we scrapped the idea and bivied on the Upper Bench. Beautiful and exposed- the best bivy spot I've ever had! The next morning we had 3 options- descend the Koven, traverse to Teewinot, or descend via the Teewinot-Owen cirque. We did the latter, but I would highly discourage it! Unprotected downclimbing on wet 5.7 slabs and steep wet grass with heavy packs, all while the many gullies spewed down big boulders.
A note: Serendipity can be done in a day by a fairly fit and fast party.
My first big lead on rock. Not bad for leaving the route description in the car.
This was my first climb in the Tetons. We did it car to car which made for a very long day.
Started @ 4:30 from Lupine Meadows trailhead quickly getting lost in the dark searching for a shortcut into Glacier Gulch. Eventually we regained the regular trail and ascended to Delta Lake. Our leader, Max, decided he'd gotten too little sleep and we took a 2 hour nap. We awoke and headed up the couloir just South and East of the East prong. We reached the summit at 2 p.m. or so and my hair didn't hesitate 10 minutes to promptly stand on end straight into the sky; due to the thunderstorm that developed directly overhead. It took us about 5 seconds to decide we needed to descend immediately! About 3 rappels from the summit, still 2 raps from the Northeast snowfields, rain and snow began to fall in earnest. Not only did it start snowing, it also started to thunder and lightning. Lightning struck the summit while we were still trying to rap off the East ridge onto the Northeast snowfields--scariest place I've ever been caught in a T-storm. About 3 inches of fresh snow now covered everything, making rock very slippery. We finally ended up finishing rappelling the Koven couloir at dark. We got lost one more time on the descent from Delta lake--in the dark. After being on the trail for 20 hours we returned to the car and endured a completely exhausted and delirious ride back to Jackson. Jimmy, Niels, and Max---09-13-2006
Made an awesome day of it by first ascending Teewinot mountain. We then came down the Southwest couloir of Teewinot to gain the ridge connecting the East Prong and Mt. Owen We were going to take the East ridge but ended up traversing around to the Western couloir leading up the summit knob. Easy but very exposed climbing--soloed up the last pitch and down the entire summit knob... Thinking about attempting the Cathedral Traverse we headed to the Gunsight notch but decided we were too late and descended beautiful Valhalla Canyon into Cascade Canyon. 16 hours parking lot to parking lot... Took only 3.5 hours to climb Teewinot... Took longer to get from Teewinot to Owen than to climb just Teewinot.
Summit panorama video