Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge / Stujack Pass Date Climbed: June 8th, 2003
Beautiful day for climbing. Most peaks were clear and viewable except for Glacier Peak and Big Four Mountain. It was extremely hot, early on from Lake Matan up to the basin meadows. From there, we had a very welcomed cool breeze. For some reason, as we headed through the col, it felt very hot again. I knew getting acclimated to the heat of the area's first summer heat wave of the year would be added challenge. We were sweating like pigs and moving at a snails pace at this point. This was the most difficult part of the climb for me.
Once we gained the ridge just below Stujack Pass, we took a brief break, and watched a dramatic avalanche come off the butte above the basin on the north side. Climbing through Stujack Pass with the current snow conditions was very tricky and had lots of exposure. One slip here would mean certain death, due to massive rock below and deep snow cracks in the basin below, without any run out of any kind. So... the nice, trivial kicked in steps I made suddenly became non-trivial. After crossing the adrenaline charged traverse, we found the steep summit ridge was considerable safer. We enjoyed great views of Sloan, Bedal Peak, Mt. Baker, and Mt. Shuksan. Two quarts of extremely cold water and two pints of frozen yogurt was our motivation and reward for getting down.
Based on the transitioning snow conditions of Stujack Pass, I would recommend waiting about two more weeks before attempting this one again. Sometime around then, Stujack Pass should be much safer.
Route Climbed: North Ridge via Stujack Pass Date Climbed: November 30, 2002
Road is gated at Mtn Loop Highway 1.5 miles to TH, bring bikes for an easier descent Trail is nice all the way up to stujack pass, then once on the other side of the ridge there is solid snow that is hard and requires crampons and ice axe. Even the higher south east facing slopes had some snow on them which made the scramble to the summit a little more interesting. 13 miles RT little under 5 hours to summit, 2.5 down
Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: August 4 2001
Hike time Round trip 10.5 hours. Me and Neika (malamute) went up to the summit, and she made it this time. A few years earlier when she was a pup had to turn back on the ridge as there was a large rock block she could not get up. This time however, she made it with a bit of pulling and pushing haha. No bug's, no snow, plenty of wildflowers. On the descent neika stopped on the trail ahead of me and cocked her head funny and down below us a baby bear cub scampered straight up a large pine tree, being instructed by her mom below. We quickly left them alone and continued on. Limited people and on a Saturday only saw 3 other's.
Route Climbed: Northwest ridge Date Climbed: July 5, 2002
This became our back-up climb when the road leading to three fingers was washed out with over 4 miles remaining to the trail-head. Beautiful day, not a cloud in the sky. Fairly cold in the early morning with dense forest blocking all warmth from the sun below 4200 feet. We lost the trail in the numerous snowfields leading up to the summit but we were able to follow several lines of foot prints leading up. surprisingly, we were the only people on the mountain that day considering that it was the day after the 4th of July which many people have off. It was a very nice hike up to Metam lake and beyond to the snowfields. the snowfields were still iced-over from the night before, and easy to walk on. the route followed many switch-backs up to Stujack Pass just above 5700 ft, which offered an amazing view of the surrounding peaks to the north and south. following up the northwest ridge which became razor thin with a dropoff to the south looking over the basin towards the road and the small glacier to the north that presented a view of mt Baker. We followed the small scrambler's trail that led through class 2/3 scrambling over large boulders and talus and small snowfields that led to the summit. spectacular views in all directions. with clear skies we were able to see the entire expanse of the Cascade range including the snowcapped peaks of BC's Coastal Range far beyond Baker to the north.
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge #644 Date Climbed: 08/25/01
Beautiful Day, no clouds, and the bugs were on vacation. Great hike up to metan lake, then the switchbacks up to Stujack Pass were great. Some overgrown shrubery up to the pass, and then some nice exposure along the ridge towards the summit. Left the trailhead at 815am, and made it to the summit at 12 noon. Hung out on top for about 1 hour and soaked in too many rays, and then descended down the long arduous trail. 5.3 miles one way, and 5000 vertical feet. It's a grind, but well worth it. Can't wait to hit this in the winter!
paule - Jun 9, 2003 2:19 pm
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge / Stujack Pass Date Climbed: June 8th, 2003Beautiful day for climbing. Most peaks were clear and viewable except for Glacier Peak and Big Four Mountain. It was extremely hot, early on from Lake Matan up to the basin meadows. From there, we had a very welcomed cool breeze. For some reason, as we headed through the col, it felt very hot again. I knew getting acclimated to the heat of the area's first summer heat wave of the year would be added challenge. We were sweating like pigs and moving at a snails pace at this point. This was the most difficult part of the climb for me.
Once we gained the ridge just below Stujack Pass, we took a brief break, and watched a dramatic avalanche come off the butte above the basin on the north side. Climbing through Stujack Pass with the current snow conditions was very tricky and had lots of exposure. One slip here would mean certain death, due to massive rock below and deep snow cracks in the basin below, without any run out of any kind. So... the nice, trivial kicked in steps I made suddenly became non-trivial. After crossing the adrenaline charged traverse, we found the steep summit ridge was considerable safer. We enjoyed great views of Sloan, Bedal Peak, Mt. Baker, and Mt. Shuksan. Two quarts of extremely cold water and two pints of frozen yogurt was our motivation and reward for getting down.
Based on the transitioning snow conditions of Stujack Pass, I would recommend waiting about two more weeks before attempting this one again. Sometime around then, Stujack Pass should be much safer.
scot'teryx - Dec 7, 2002 9:00 pm
Route Climbed: North Ridge via Stujack Pass Date Climbed: November 30, 2002Road is gated at Mtn Loop Highway 1.5 miles to TH, bring bikes for an easier descent Trail is nice all the way up to stujack pass, then once on the other side of the ridge there is solid snow that is hard and requires crampons and ice axe. Even the higher south east facing slopes had some snow on them which made the scramble to the summit a little more interesting. 13 miles RT little under 5 hours to summit, 2.5 down
leejams - Sep 9, 2002 11:39 pm
Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: August 4 2001Hike time Round trip 10.5 hours. Me and Neika (malamute) went up to the summit, and she made it this time. A few years earlier when she was a pup had to turn back on the ridge as there was a large rock block she could not get up. This time however, she made it with a bit of pulling and pushing haha. No bug's, no snow, plenty of wildflowers. On the descent neika stopped on the trail ahead of me and cocked her head funny and down below us a baby bear cub scampered straight up a large pine tree, being instructed by her mom below. We quickly left them alone and continued on. Limited people and on a Saturday only saw 3 other's.
Joe Hanssen - Jul 29, 2002 8:50 am
Route Climbed: Standard-West Date Climbed: Summer '95Easy hike to the top, and one of the greatest vantage points of Glacier Peak.
ClimbLer - Jul 6, 2002 10:09 am
Route Climbed: Northwest ridge Date Climbed: July 5, 2002This became our back-up climb when the road leading to three fingers was washed out with over 4 miles remaining to the trail-head. Beautiful day, not a cloud in the sky. Fairly cold in the early morning with dense forest blocking all warmth from the sun below 4200 feet. We lost the trail in the numerous snowfields leading up to the summit but we were able to follow several lines of foot prints leading up. surprisingly, we were the only people on the mountain that day considering that it was the day after the 4th of July which many people have off. It was a very nice hike up to Metam lake and beyond to the snowfields. the snowfields were still iced-over from the night before, and easy to walk on. the route followed many switch-backs up to Stujack Pass just above 5700 ft, which offered an amazing view of the surrounding peaks to the north and south. following up the northwest ridge which became razor thin with a dropoff to the south looking over the basin towards the road and the small glacier to the north that presented a view of mt Baker. We followed the small scrambler's trail that led through class 2/3 scrambling over large boulders and talus and small snowfields that led to the summit. spectacular views in all directions. with clear skies we were able to see the entire expanse of the Cascade range including the snowcapped peaks of BC's Coastal Range far beyond Baker to the north.
scot'teryx - Aug 26, 2001 11:31 pm
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge #644 Date Climbed: 08/25/01Beautiful Day, no clouds, and the bugs were on vacation. Great hike up to metan lake, then the switchbacks up to Stujack Pass were great. Some overgrown shrubery up to the pass, and then some nice exposure along the ridge towards the summit. Left the trailhead at 815am, and made it to the summit at 12 noon. Hung out on top for about 1 hour and soaked in too many rays, and then descended down the long arduous trail. 5.3 miles one way, and 5000 vertical feet. It's a grind, but well worth it. Can't wait to hit this in the winter!