Mount Pugh Climber's Log

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TheBootfitter

TheBootfitter - Sep 22, 2008 1:18 am Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2008

Socked in, but fun mini-scramble...  Sucess!

A trip to Shuksan re-routed to Pugh due to the weather. Cloudy, but not rainy until we reached the pass. Then it started blowing and snowing. The scramble along the ridge had a few fun sections... enough to make it worth another trip -- ideally when the views are better. We saw nothin' but clouds and blowing snow from the top. Oh yeah... traveling at a pretty casual pace with a couple short stops, we made it car-to-summit in about 3.5 hours. (And enjoyed a bottle of wine at the top!)

seano

seano - Sep 5, 2008 2:49 pm

North Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed in the clouds, so I had no idea what it looked like until checking out the SP page...

Mark Straub

Mark Straub - Dec 2, 2007 10:44 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2007

Standard Route  Sucess!

Went on an overnight with Josh Lewis, Josh's mom and brother, my dad, and another friend. We hiked up in the dark, leaving at about 7:30. Not a fun experience. We set up camp after reaching the boulder field at about 10:00. Most of the group slept in a ring of boulders, but I actually slept without a tent under a large rock, sheltered nicely. The next morning, we summited and saw a large marmot at the peak. Excellent views, and we only passed one person.

Pantilat

Pantilat - Jun 20, 2007 2:53 am

Standard route  Sucess!

1 hour, 55 minutes car to summit.

Andy Dewey

Andy Dewey - Jun 13, 2007 6:21 pm Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2007

Route Climbed: Trail  Sucess!

Lots of snow from basin below Stujack to the top. Crux section and most scrambling areas are snow-free. Steep snow above pass, several very steep snowfields must be crossed. I had no visibility in snow, freezing rain, and strong winds. Probably better to wait until later summer when steep snow is gone.

osatrik

osatrik - Sep 2, 2006 6:25 am Date Climbed: Oct 1, 1995

OSAT climb  Sucess!

Dick, Charlie, Dave B, and I climbed it. We didn't notice Dave N's truck at the trailhead, inspite of his distinctive "ON BELAY" license plate. When we got to a short gully between Stujack and the summit, there was Dave, sitting at the top of it waiting for us.

ren

ren - Jul 2, 2006 8:45 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006

Route Climbed: Standard 7/1/06  Sucess!

Trail snow free except for a couple patches above Stujack Pass that were steep and turned a couple groups around that didn't have crampons. Also near the fault did a little mote travel. Beautiful day with great views of Glacier Peak and Sloan.

Snidely Whiplash

Snidely Whiplash - Feb 23, 2006 4:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2005

Route Climbed: From Stujack Pass  Sucess!

A little scary on the ridge above the glacier, but otherwise, no problems. I wouldn't want to do it with a lot of snow on the route. Deinitely wait until August.

setrent - Dec 26, 2005 9:42 pm

Route Climbed: Trail Date Climbed: 12 Aug, 2003  Sucess!

A few exposed class three moves, but the view at the summit was well worth it.

dicey - Sep 4, 2005 1:54 pm

Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: April 25, 2005

lot's of steep snow to contend with

easleygone - Jul 31, 2005 10:21 am

Route Climbed: Mt Pugh Trail Date Climbed: Sept 1989  Sucess!

A couple of hairy places above the pass but worth it.

Darren Larama - Apr 27, 2005 2:14 pm

Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: Late April 2005  Sucess!

What a great climb! From Stujack Pass onwards the snow conditions were fairly decent, and the views were magnificent. Every time I wanted to take a picture of Sloan I had to remind myself - it only gets better the higher up we go. From the summit we watched the whole western horizon slowly fill up with clouds. By the time they had flooded the valleys between Pilchuck and Three Fingers we decided that it was time to climb down.



Nothing especially hairy about the climb, a few of the steep snow sections were pretty exposed and made for slow going.

sixsigmafool - Sep 10, 2004 12:44 am

Route Climbed: Normla trail Date Climbed: September 5, 2004  Sucess!

Waited almost a year to return, but it was worth it! An early start from Redmond had us on the trail by 8:30. Low clouds, but no rain and the promise of clearing as the day wore on. Four of us headed up, including my partner from last October. The trail is in great shape, with only one blowdown to climb over or around. Reached the lake in a little over an hour, and the clouds were keeping the mountain from view. Another hour or so, and it was time to climb to Stujack pass. At least we could see it and the ridge this time. The clouds came and went, giving us an occasional view of our goal. Much nicer and safer in the late summer without fresh snow. Some clearing as we approached the base got the others to thinking about family and other earthly things. When we reached the small ridge above the head of the glacier, they decided they didn't like the looks of the scramble ahead. Twenty minutes later I reached the summit, 4hours, 8 minutes total. Views were still poor, but I made it! A long break at the campsite near the hoist to enjoy the views and the goat below us, and then back to the car. 9 hours R/T.

jtostenr

jtostenr - Jul 13, 2004 1:00 am

Route Climbed: North Ridge / Stujack Pass Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!

This was the first time I had been up to Mt Pugh and it was not what I had expected. I really thought the hike up to the base of the pass was going to be more difficult. It was a lot of fun and let me keep some energy for the climb to the summit. The scramble to the top was great, but the exposure freaked me out a little. You would have to be crazy to try that in the winter. All in all, this was a great hike with some of the best views I have ever seen.

jasonconnell

jasonconnell - Jul 7, 2004 12:20 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 5th 2004  Sucess!

Great Hike. 3:10 minutes trailhead to summit - long nap on summit then back down in about 2.5 hours. Awesome views of Glacier Peak. Small patches of snow are still hanging around. brought ice axe and crampons but needed neither.

sixsigmafool - Oct 13, 2003 11:53 pm

Route Climbed: Standard trail Date Climbed: October 12, 2003

Well, the summer had to finally end. Only problem was, I picked that weekend to attempt Mt Pugh. Arrived at the trailhead at 7:30 AM. Raining, foggy, very overcast. On the plus side, the gate to the forest road was open. The trail is in great shape! Nice and gentle all the way to the base of Stujack Pass. Saw the first snow around 4500', but still only about 4" all the way to the pass. A little route finding at the base, and we were on our way up. Reached the pass in just under 3 hours, and the weather hadn't improved. Windy at the pass, with limited visibility. Headed up the ridge toward Mt Pugh, following what we thought was the trail when possible, making it up when we had to. Eventually regained the trail, and followed it to the knife edge ridge. The snow was now about 12" deep, more or less. Eventually lost the trail, and with limited visibility, decided we went far enough for today. Right around 6300', a little past the winch. Four hours from the trailhead. Can't wait to get back. It was a very enjoyable trail.

leftfield

leftfield - Sep 29, 2003 11:47 pm

Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: September 26, 2003  Sucess!

Returned after being weathered off in June. Much cooler climb than i expected. Fun, easy scramble with just enough exposure to keep it interesting. Great views and "stay there indefinitely" summit weather.

sprosseda

sprosseda - Sep 10, 2003 11:16 am

Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: July 15, 2000  Sucess!

Very enjoyable day hike and scramble of 10 miles and 5,000 vertical feet. Sloan looks like a splinter in the sky from this perspective! Glacier peak looks great too.

paule

paule - Sep 8, 2003 12:33 pm

Route Climbed: North Ridge / Stujack Pass Date Climbed: September 6, 2003  Sucess!

After summitting Mt. Forgotten the weekend before, Pugh was calling me back again, and I couldn't resist. The weather was pretty hot, but some questionable clouds started rolling in with the increased wind, and cooled things off. The clouds continued on to the north without dropping any water or lightening, but I didn't want to press my luck with the darker clouds coming in behind them.



Great views all around, but there was a major fire that looked like it was somewhere between Leavenworth and the SE side of Glacier Peak. Very few people on the mountain. Leaves are really starting to come down, and looks like this day might be one of the last hot, dry days for a while. Pugh is such a blast.

paule

paule - Jun 9, 2003 2:19 pm

Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge / Stujack Pass Date Climbed: June 8th, 2003  Sucess!

Beautiful day for climbing. Most peaks were clear and viewable except for Glacier Peak and Big Four Mountain. It was extremely hot, early on from Lake Matan up to the basin meadows. From there, we had a very welcomed cool breeze. For some reason, as we headed through the col, it felt very hot again. I knew getting acclimated to the heat of the area's first summer heat wave of the year would be added challenge. We were sweating like pigs and moving at a snails pace at this point. This was the most difficult part of the climb for me.



Once we gained the ridge just below Stujack Pass, we took a brief break, and watched a dramatic avalanche come off the butte above the basin on the north side. Climbing through Stujack Pass with the current snow conditions was very tricky and had lots of exposure. One slip here would mean certain death, due to massive rock below and deep snow cracks in the basin below, without any run out of any kind. So... the nice, trivial kicked in steps I made suddenly became non-trivial. After crossing the adrenaline charged traverse, we found the steep summit ridge was considerable safer. We enjoyed great views of Sloan, Bedal Peak, Mt. Baker, and Mt. Shuksan. Two quarts of extremely cold water and two pints of frozen yogurt was our motivation and reward for getting down.



Based on the transitioning snow conditions of Stujack Pass, I would recommend waiting about two more weeks before attempting this one again. Sometime around then, Stujack Pass should be much safer.

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