Awesome climb! I did it through RMI with a group of 9 guys that my good friend Alan put together over the past year. We nailed it for weather. Climbing school was cloudy, so we kept cool. Then for the climb to Camp Muir we had sun and blue skies. The alpine start at 1:30 a.m. was under a clear star filled sky. Sunrise at the top of the Cleaver was cold, but beautiful. We set the standing season record for an RMI group doing the D. Cleaver route in 5 hours and 20 minutes.
Party of 4 made up this ascent, 2 from Nevada, including myself, 1 from Georgia and 1 from Alaska. From the Paradise upper parking lot take the Skyline Trail to Pan Point, continue to Pebble Creek and follow the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir at 10,100 ft. At Camp Muir, there is a ranger station, guide hut, client hut and toilet facilities. We took a rest day here and enjoyed the camaraderie, even had a gourmet meal. We chose to camp outside at Muir and did not even set up our tents. The moon and stars were great. The views from Muir out at Mount Saint Helens and Adams were spectacular. At about 1:30AM, we took off from Camp Muir, crossed the Cowlitz Glacier to Cathedral Gap and continued along the scree ridge to the Ingraham Glacier and Ingraham Flats at 11,100 ft. Another climbing camp exists here, but I do not see the need if you are in any shape at all. The sunrise soon followed and was postcard perfect.
Gain the cleaver on a ledge system of crumbling rock 300 ft above Ingraham Flats. Watch out for ice-fall from the Ingraham while accessing the lower cleaver. While on the cleaver, be conscientious of other parties that are moving more rapidly or slowly. This is an extremely dangerous area with a high potential for rock-fall. One good size rock took a piece off of my helmet and if it would have been a direct hit, I would not be writing this with normal concentration. We ascended the rocky/snowy cleaver to 12,300 ft. From here, only 2 of us continued on. Matt and I climbed the Ingraham Glacier to the summit, negotiating crevasses and unstable snow bridges. You will reach the crater rim at 14,150 ft. It's about a 30 to 45 minute round trip walk to the true summit (14,411 ft) and climber register. Great day even made a cellular phone call home from the crater.
We descended all the way out to the parking lot and spent a night at the Paradise Hotel.
We could'nt have asked for better weather. Our summit day was nearly perfect. Myself and six other team members climbed to the true summit of this awesome mountain. What a great time with great friends!
Dave & Jared Cook , Kevin Clawson (Rochester, NY); Ryan, John, Justin, Colin Holbrook (Spokan, WA); summit at 6:30 am, back at Paridise by 1:30. Great trip. Gumby legs on the return.
Great climb on a beautiful day. My first big mountain summit; climbed with brother Doug. Fantastic views.
Enjoyed a wonderful trip with three climbing partners in warm conditions. Late start on Monday got us to the Inter Glacier. Slept in and eventually made it to camp Schurman on Tuesday. 2 AM start in soft snow made for slow going at first but it finally firmed up and the summit was reached at 9 AM. Cold and windy on top. Only two other climbers on the route. Advantage of going during the middle of the week I assume.
Once you see Rainier, if you have the slighest disposition toward adventure, you have to climb it, and, having lived in its literal shadow for two years, I did. Twice. Or at least I tried.
The first time was in 1994, as part of a (too-) large party up the Emmons-Winthrop route. We got to 13,700ft., could see the rocks on the crater rim, and turned around. The descent was where most of my memories come from, and I have a trip report I wrote from two perspectives--mine and my rope-team member's. (The names of the others have been change to protect the, er, innocent.)
The second time was five years later, in 1999, when I went up the Disappointment Cleaver, solo and successfully. That climb was all about the back-story, for me. An (off-site) trip report can be found here and here.
Brother Mark and I summited via the DC. Warm day with high freezing level made for a beautiful early a.m. climb but a hot and slippery descent (especially on the Cleaver itself). Awsome mountain!
Nearly 10 years to the week from my first attempt, I summitted in perfect conditions. Som blue ice near the top, and we took a little too long to get down (post-hole city), but other than that, it was a nice clean route and some beautiful weather. Good times. Pulled off one crazy glissade back down the Interglacier...
My team summited Mount Rainier this past week by way of the D.C route. Our summit team included Bob McCullar, Russell McCullar and myself. The day we left Camp Muir (May 23) REI turned 3 ropes teams back due to a wind slab at about 12400 ft. Our team left Muir and set up a high camp at Ingram Flats. We left Ingram at 3 am on the 24th and Summited in six hours. The slab didn't look like it was in any immeadiate danger of releasing but it should be noted by other teams. After reacing the crater rim we rested and descended back down the DC. Once back at Ingram we packed our site and went back down to Paradise. The total time of decent wasabout 4 hours.
We were awakened in our tent at Camp Muir at 2:00 AM, 4:00 AM and 4:30 Am by guided parties getting ready to leave. We didn't get away until after 7:00 and worried that we were being foolish for the late start. But one by one those guided parties came by us on their way down in defeat as we ascended. We summitted a little before 2:00 PM, the only party to summit that day from Camp Muir.
My two buddies, Scott Patterson and Clay Parks, and I reached the summit in a GALE. Started out from Ingraham Flats. It began as a very calm night, then the wind and clouds blew in at about 3 a.m., just as we reached the top of the cleaver. I kept wondering when it would get bad enough to force us to turn around. Then, at about 4:30 or so, it hit me: We weren't turning around. The winds on the crater rim must have been around 70 mph. Our eyelashes were frosted. But boy, were we happy. We had the summit to ourselves but ran into a ton of climbers on the way down. I was surprised and pleased to find three teams of guided climbers behind us. By 10 a.m., the weather was clearing and stayed beautiful for the next several days. No regrets about summitting in bad weather. It added to the drama.
Wet and cloudy below, but broke above the clouds at about 10000, and it was all blue skies from there. Absolutely beautiful.
Awesome climb. We were blessed with clear weather for the summit, but it was unseasonably cold.
Because of the lack of acclimization, I experienced my first case of altitude sickness. I don't recommend it. It makes you stupid.
Left Muir Camp at 12:30 am and were on the summit at 6:30 am. Clear sky's up high. Nice view.
Magnificent mountain, great climb.
First climbed Rainier via Emmons Glacier in 2000. We made it a three day trip. First night spent at Glacier Basin, second night at Emmons Flats, and summit on third day and hike all the way out.
Second summit of Rainier via DC in June 2001. Spending one night in Muir.
Third summit of Rainier was again by Emmons Glacier in July 2002.
We have always had beautiful weather on summit days. We've been lucky! This year, I would like to try Kautz Glacier or Gibraltor Ridge.
best trip on rainier ever
Late June of '84 attempted Liberty Ridge with John Pfieffer-Spent 3 days tent bound on the Carbon Glacier. Backed out and drove around the mountain, waited a few days for the weather to change and climbed the Emmons Glacier Route. Returned in early June of '87, again with John Pfieffer, and climbed Liberty Ridge to the summit. Returned again in '89 to hike to the summit of Burroughs Mtn. from Glacier Basin with my wife Trudi. Fantastic views of Rainier from its summit.
Climbed with RMI on the 5 day seminar. RMI did a great job helping me learn the skills to feel comfortable on the mountain.