Started on Friday, 5-27-16 with the intentions of the Kautz Route, but couldn't get across the Nisqually-Wilson glacier due to socked in weather, super foggy, and lots of rock fall. We stayed the night at about 6500ft on the Glacier Vista trail to see if the morning provided us a better chance. Bad weather caused us to turn tail and head up the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Got up to Camp Muir on Saturday, 5-28-16 and weather kept us there until Monday, 5-30-16. We had a bluebird day and summited on Monday, 5-30-16. My lack of hydration caused a longer descent and we ended up camping one more night at Camp Muir, then down to Paradise on Tuesday, 5-31-16. Would certainly love to return someday to do the Kautz Route, but would do the DC Route again in a heartbeat!
Participated in Denali Prep course February 25 – March 4. Unable to summit due to weather. Perfectly gnarly conditions for excellent Denali training. Experienced 70 mph winds and minus-20-50 (C) temps and wind chill.
Superb ski trip. Awesome weather and conditions.
Summited via the Ingraham Glacier/Disappointment Cleaver route with Alpine Ascents International. Fantastic group of guides: Jangbu, Connor, Don, and Kristie. Perfect weather. No wind even at the summit, no precip, no clouds, freezing level above the summit, very hot descent. Wildfire haze obstructed most of the views.
Can't wait to return and try a more technical route like Emmons
Was with my buddy John, another guide in training. Summited in great style on the DC. Participated in a rescue with IMG. Fantastic learning experience. Definitely had a lot more of the glacier things I've been craving.
Very cold with gusting snow storm at the summit. Harrowing descent.
Easiest day of mah life. Just kidding but after climbing 50-some mountains in the prior 2 months I started from the Paradise parking lot at 6am with running shoes on feet and was back in 12 hours. Perfect conditions for my first glaciated peak.
Went with AA up the DC route both times. Tried in June 2016 but was blown off of Ingraham by a nasty storm. This time we had perfect weather and good conditions, although the crevasses were causing problems once the sun hit them. Had to take a different route back to the cleaver which swung us well to the Emmons side and below the DC, so much so that the guides half-jokingly said we should just head to Schurman instead of going back to Paradise. Great time.
The warm temperatures of the year really broke up the glacier. We observed multiple rock falls off Gibralter rock and heard ice cracking. Turned around at 12,500 above the DC because of unsafe conditions, high winds and all the guided groups turned around, but we were treated to an unbelievable sunrise among the huge penitentes.
17 hours car to car via the DC route. With Fletcher, Damon, and Reed.
Standard DC route. Tougher than expected with the route having a 400' descending traverse after the cleaver and traversing all the way around the mountain to merge with the Emmons route. Beautiful clear day & night.
- Conditioning hike to Camp Muir on 10/23/16. White out. Party of four.
- Attempt of Gibraltar Ledges on 1/28/17. We turned around at 12,100 past the last Gibraltar crux due to stormy weather. Party of four to 10,000 and two to 12,100. This is the FA route of Mount Rainier by Hazard Stevens and Philemon Beecher Van Trump in 1870.
- Attempt of Ingraham Direct on 4/22/17. We turned around due to a white out at 10,000 elevation.
- Car to car attempt of Fuhrer Finger Route on 5/31/17. We completed the Fuhrer Finger Couloir Route but did not summit due to a team member being out of shape, overweight and refusing to continue. We turned around at 13,933. Team of three.
- Ascent of Emmons-Winthrop Route on 6/29/17. My first successful ascent of Rainier. Party of three.
- Ascent of Emmons-Winthrop Route on 8/1/17. Party of three. #2
A challenging but beautiful summit via Emmons from Camp Schurman. Alpine start at 1am with the total 6hr15min moving time.
Many thanks to RMI Expeditions for organizing All Women Emmons Expedition Training Seminar. Three out of 8 women stood on the top of Mt.Rainier that day
The way down was slushy and we had to move fast through the corridor of ice fall.
Weather was perfect, with only 15-20 m/hr winds on the summit
Amazing conditions on the DC Route! After having to turn around at Camp Muir a week before due to high winds and avalanche risk on the upper mountain, we made a second attempt a week later. This time we were met with perfect conditions and a well-maintained route all the way to the summit. Super hot on the descent across the Muir Snowfield.
I did this climb with RMI. They were great. It was really amazing. For me,seeing the glaciers and crevasses up close was a highlight. It was tough as well. Ascending 9k is no easy task. There were really strong winds on the summit. We went all the way to the Columbia Crest. It was difficult, but it was a great experience. Rainier is such an amazing mountain.
Summited with new friends back in June of 13. Cannot wait to go again on another route other than the Cleaver.
Super hot summer, my brother and climbing partner and I did the DC. Route blown out a bit, lots of re-routes, ladder crossings over big crevasses but lots of fun.
Climbed the Emmons route with Jason and Kim when she was three months pregnant. We were the first ones to summit that morning and had the summit to ourselves in perfect weather....for about 15 minutes. Then the teams from the DC started coming over the crater rim.
Awesome route. Went with IMG to build my skills.
Larry flew in from Oakland and I drove from Idaho with plans to do the DC in a day. Leaving at 8pm and hoping to get to the summit early morning.
Looking back, we we didn't get enough rest being up all that day. By the time we hit Camp Muir we were exhausted and not feeling well.
Will try again next year but will leave earlier and get a few hours rest at Muir