We started Friday afternoon and reached the summit from Ingraham Flat 6:30 AM on Sunday. We were unusually lucky as far as weather goes. Only one white-out on the way to Muir and mild wind all day Sunday. We missed a giant avalanche on the cowlitz glacier by about a half hour. It looked like it came down from Cadaver Gap. One rock was the size of a large house. Eleven of our party of thirteen summited.
Three of us left at about midnight, so we ended up dealing with the RMI people all the way up. The weather was perfect this weekend and made this climb very enjoyable. We hit the summit at about 7AM, as we were taking it pretty easy. We headed back to camp for a nap and some food. The hike out treated us with visits from a marmot and quite a few friendly deer. The flowers were amazing. Looking forward to next year, maybe we'll try the Ingraham Direct.
THE THREE HUNT BROTHERS JEFF,TOM,AND DAVID SUMMITED WITH RMI LEAD GUIDE BRENT OKITA, HIS 300TH SUMMIT.
After an unnsuccesful summit attempt the day before (high winds at 12.5K), we left Emmons Flats among some 10-20 other teams at 1:30AM.
Despite frequent traffic jams, we made good progress and reached the summit near 7:30AM. The most interesting obstacle of the route was the bergschrund near 13.5K.
I suspect that the kick-step ladder-bridge would be gone within the next day or two, which would make for a long traverse over the
saddle to the north from the established route.
It was quite windy near the summit, so we opted to stay on snow (rime ice) and head southwest directly into the crater rather than for the
Just over the crest, large sections of warm, steaming soil were exposed and there was not wind, making for a great place to make some miso soup!
We walked over to the summit, met some friends who ascended the DC route,
took some pics, walked over to the summit register, packed up and headed down shortly after 10:00AM.
Overall, a great climb and a great mountain. Would do it again any time!
I departed from Paradise at 8am. After reaching Camp Muir, I was thinking of turning around with the high winds and storm clouds moving in. I decided to go, until it was to dangerous to climb. Towards the last 1/2 mile was the slowest, storm clouds rushing by so fast. The only way I was able to stay on my feet, is having my ice axe stuck deep in the snow, and attach to my harness. The last 100 yards was worst, I had crawl up to the summit ridge. Well, it took a long 7 hours to the summit, and 3 hours down. This is my third summit on this route.
Rob O. and I packed our skis all the way to the summit, but the snow never softened up enough and we downclimbed all the way back to the Corridor before we could ski. And the skiing was terrible! death crust over slush. We saw the helicopters flying by - unknown to us at the time a rescue was taking place on the south side.
nice weather and great views both times. emmons was more of a slog though less crowded than dissapointment.
Our 5 man rope team (all but 1 had never done any mountianeering) made summit in 5 hours. As the first team up that day we had the pleasure of breaking trail and even had to re-route up a 15 foot near vertical face due to a crevasse. What a great day!!!
Afternoon sun sent several large ice avalanches through Camp Hazard.
Fantastic Climb - Clear weather, extremely cold on the summit. We summitted in our down parkas.
Picture perfect day for a summit. Blue skies as far as the eye could see.
Was part of Old Ickabod's team. His summit log is posted with detail a couple before mine. It was a much rougher day than I anticipated and very humling with the crevasse incident. Being dragged towards the crevasse was quite a rush, Wahoo!!! Our team did a good job pulling it together and reaching the summit. Thanks to my buddies for a great experience.
Our enthusiasm was curbed somewhat by the news that a fellow climber had died on our planned ascent route (Gib Ledges). Rest in peace Mike, and may your friends and family find comfort.
We decided to do Ingraham instead. We found the going not technically difficult and route-finding was not a problem. However, it was physically strenuous (it is a big mountain). We reached the rim just after sun-rise expecting to be the only ones there, but a group of hardy Czechs were camped out in the crater!
Thanks to my partners Al and Pat, with extra thanks to Ed, who did most of the planning and led the entire climb.
Spectacular feeling to reach the summit! As I led through the Ingraham Icefall, a snowbridge I was crossing collapsed and I plunged 30 feet before being arrested by my two team members (dragging one of them 10 feet toward the crevasse). I sustained no physical injuries, but I was rocked emotionally. They hauled me up with spectacular leadership from the RMI Guides that came up behind us. My nerves were shot, but my commitment to the team was strong. We continued cautiously with Kevin Wright leading and we summited after 9 hours. We retraced our steps from 13,000 to Camp Muir in a whiteout. 13 hours roundtrip with two spectacular teammates. It was a true life changing experience, but I learned a lot on the trip. Rainier is now a huge part of my life. Special thanks to Kenny Hays who self arrested the moment he saw me disappear into the crevasse and to Kevin Wright for setting the anchor and assisting in the rescue just as quick!
We successfully summitted; however, we had a couple near disasters including one crevasse rescue. Please see the trip report for details, and if you're considering this route this year, be hyper-vigilant and always ready for a crevasse rescue!
Summited on a very busy day. Difficult to attend to bodily functions on summit, as stage fright overcame me. Some nuts camping in crater, selling soft drinks and programs.
Excellent weather: sun, almost no wind, warm, great visibility.
May 26: ascent from Paradise to Camp Muir (~6-7 hrs)
May 27: rest, play around
May 28: ascent to the top (~13 hrs round-trip; ~9 hrs up, and ~4 hrs down; started ascent at 2am, summited by 11 am)
May 29: rest, play, descent to Paradise
Team: Dmitry Eremin, Lev Gorenshtein, Anton Karnoup, Polina Savchenko, Serguei Pachtchenko, Vitaly Autin, Sergey Mikhailov.
Began at 1am from Muir under perfect conditions. Light snow at 3am turned to full blown blizzard conditions at about 5am (13,200') so we had to turn back. ID route was in great shape but is expected to fall apart in the next couple of weeks.
Andreas (from Switzerland) and I climbed the Gibraltar ledges on Friday.
Had the mountain all to overselves with just one other team
going up the ID route. We got lost below the Gib rock on the way
up and wasted more than 1.5 hrs traversing some 55 degree snow
and ice (and traversing all that hard parts back:). Got back on route
and finished the technical part under perfect conditions. Andreas was
feeling tired and hence we decided to turn back once we could
access the gentle upper slopes. The ID route was way on the right
side and there were a lot of crevasses in between. So we decided to
go up all the way to the crater. At around 13,500 ft, we saw the wands
on the ID route to our right, and traversed the glacier towards
them. Headed down after a brief rest.
ID was in great shape. I got fried by the sun (and altitude) on the
way down and was quite happy to get to Camp Muir.
Overall, a fun route under great conditions!
other than having to dig into 45 degree slope to camp before the summit, it's pretty similar to Disappointment Cleaver route (except a bit more technical and a few more Ice Falls to cross under.