We started our climb from the White River Campground at 4400'. Hiked along the White River up to Inter Glacier camp at about 8000' and made camp. The next day we practiced self-arrest on the glacier and climbed up to Steamboat Prow and made camp at Camp Schurman (9500'). Started from Camp Schurman at 2:00 AM. Climbed with guides Jason Tanguay, Tap Richards, Heidi Eichner, and Mason Stafford from IMG under beautiful stars and a bright red planet Mars. Two members of our team turned around with a guide due to altitude sickness. I reached the summit with my friend Ed and Norm from Connecticut. Snow was slushy and crevasses dangerous on way down. Stayed one more night at Camp Schurman and then hiked down. Thought it was cool that 2 of my guides have recently completed the Seven summits (2006) and another has climbed Denali, Vinson, Kili, and Everest. Also had dinner with IMG owner Eric Simonson the night before our climb started. Nice guy. My first mountain climb ever. HP #1.
Part way up (13,500?) both of my climbing partners, Brian Farnsworth and Mike Contos got alltitude sickness, I continued to the crater rim, left my pack and went back down, one of my partners Mike Contos was feeling better so he came with me to the top, we had a hard time finding the summit register, it was my first big Mountain and I loved it.....I was 19
Long approach to high camp half way up the "Turtle". We camped at approx. 9500 ft. Made for long summit day. We turned around at 9am, 200 ft from the summit. We were very concerned about climbing down through the icefall late in the morning.
It was my first mountaineering experience and immediatly fell in love with climbing mountains. Reached the summit in perfectly clear skys, with lots of wind. What a great mountain to start on!
This was my first climbing experience. It changed my life and showed me a new world. I can't wait to get into the more technical side of mountaineering.
An interesting Climb, but a little long and tedious above dissappointment cleaver. Put your head down and go. Also get down early to avoid rockfall.
Crazy winter climb. It was way above my head at the time.
Planned to climb it since the first time I saw it (1951, 4 years old). Was a gunea pig for one of Larry Penberthy's altitude sickness experiments.
My partner and I joined up with another team of 2 to make it safer. Made the top from Muir hut during a slim weather window between 2 storms. Fantastic mountain!
We arrived in Paradise on the 19th and decided on a spur-of-the-moment climb. The same day we headed up and camped on the snowfield after the big warning sign. The next day we headed up to Camp Muir. At 1:30am on the 21st we set out for the summit. I remember being very nervous. It was my first time on a heavily glaciated mountain and my first time above 11,000 feet. As we approached the top of the Cleaver, our flashlight's bulb burned out. Luckily there was a big moon to light the rest of the way. We made it to the top just after dawn. There was no wind or clouds and there were supremely great views. On the descent, coming around the base of the Cleaver, we had to run over verglassed pumice to escape heavy rockfall--it was a terrifying close call. All in all, a great experience but draining due to the dangerous conditions.
I was up on the mountain in early July, on the Emmons route and tried to summit twice, once turned back when some in our group got cold, then with another group we were turned back by high winds at 12, 800'. Back to the mountain solo in September, I hooked up with another guy out of Muir but he turned back after the cleaver, I continued on to the crater alone. Again, about 65 mph winds up there. Great Mountain, will be back!
Perfect weather, with a great bunch of climbers, this was a benefit climb for Big City Mountaineers. Ten on the summit at 7am, five hours from Camp Muir to the top.
Left camp Muir at 2am and topped DC to see the most beautiful sunrise. A snow bridge just above it had collapsed and we had to step over about 4 feet. We returned down the Emmonds and cut across the bottom of the cleaver. Absolute perfect weather no wind and a few wisps of clouds.
Approach in clouds using compass and altimeter. Long summit day, but well worth it. Climbed with my Bro-in-Law, Craig Sanford. My boots were to small and the descent smashed my toes...numb for months!
Climbed with Brian Jenkins and dkantola. Boot track route in good shape. Winds picked up for final 1500 feet to summit, and were very fierce. Fun climb though, and DC route is a little more interesting IMO than the Emmons. Be sure to bring your sleeping bag, lol, and prepare for lots of flying grit at camp when the winds pick up!
Rain to Camp Muir, but otherwise perfect. I would recommend using RMI for this mountain to anyone, my guides were great. Great hike!
Great climb in full moon with fantastic new friends from summitpost.
Made it to 12,400 and got hit with a very unpleasant freezing rain/ice storm, which turned to snow. Very strong winds and very cold above 11,500. Great mountain!!
After failing on an attempt of Ingraham Direct in February, finally was able to tick this one off. Climbed with thundercloud and dkantola. Thinking it would be warmer at Muir, I only took a bivy sack and no sleeping bag. Bad idea, was very windy. Froze and got no sleep. Thermarest pad deflated too. Laid there with the rope wrapped around my legs trying to keep warm.
Anyway, we started about 1:45 am and got up quickly to Ingraham Flats. The Cleaver is a rotting mess but we scrambled up it and then around lots of crevasses on the glacier. Winds got pretty heavy near the top, on the summit we could lean into it and it would hold us up. Glad to get this one done. Now only Glacier Peak and Garibaldi to do to complete the Cascades.......