Great route, except for the loose nasty DC itself. Reminded me of N. Maroon Peak in ways. The route seemed like it had to be altered by the hour due to lots of sun and melting bridges. Aboslutely gorgeous mountain! TR coming at some point.
Hats off to RMI for their wanding. That said, watch out for old wand that have not been removed.
Summited with friends Marc Shwartz and Chris Umphres- despite having sore legs from summiting Mt. Baker the day before. We camped at Camp Shurman and left for the summit at 2am. We reached the summit at around 8am and took a nap on a steam- warmed rock at the crater rim. We descended most of the route without our crampons due to soft snow. The glissades down the Inter Glacier were like sliding down a 3000 foot water slide! Totally fun!!!!
Took the Emmons Route with friend Mike Leno from Bend, OR. Got a head start and camped at Glacier Basin the first night, which gave us an easy second day to Schurman, where we camped instead of at Emmons Flats due to rain and sleet. Cleared up that night and we had a great summit day with the best weather you could expect. It was actually almost too warm making the snow very soft on the way down. The next day it was even warmer on the descent, but we could see the storms blowing in and were glad to get back to the car! Overall a great climb on a huge mountain!
Took the RMI Expedition Seminar.
Liberty Ridge was an exiting trip. I had great weather and the route was in best conditions. On the way to summit I met two other climbers who were so generous to me by offering climbing with them as a roped team. A solo climb would not have been possible for me.
Climbed Rainier with Alpine Ascents as part of the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center annual fundraiser. Everyone summited which was quite impressive since there were a number of first time climbers. We all planned to wake back up on July 4 after summiting to watch the fireworks in Seattle, but sure enough, we all slept till the next day. This climb was a dream come true for me!
A nice, if long, snow slog to the top. Conditions were perfect. Snow bridges holding up. Left camp schurman at 12:20 and made the summit at 5:15 am to see the sun rise. A beautiful climb under beautiful weather.
Summit on try #1 with fellow SP'er Jamin. Thanks to RMI for wanding out the route so nicely, and for the fixed ropes. Stunning mountain, clear views..just so much hard work over 2 days. Left Muir at 4:30 AM (much too late) but made good time summiting in 6.5 hours. Slushed up pretty bad on the return to Muir, many small crevasses opening up (but obvious if you are diligent)I hope no one is around when the big serac drops.
Left Camp Shurman late at night with a group of 8 climbers on three ropes. Weather was really good but one climber became ill so my wife and I decided to descend with her so the remaining climbers could make the summit. Will be back next year to climb it again. A tough climb that you really need to be in shape for.
Our party of four from Minnesota (me having just recently moved to Seattle from Minnesota) reached the summit crater at about 14,250 ft in mostly beautiful conditions. (Around 13K or 13.5K, winds picked up as heavy clouds created white out conditions at the top.) We determined that Columbia Crest itself would be anticlimactic in the white-out, so opted to skip the final bit to the highest point with winds tunneling through a gap at an estimated 60-70+ mph. A few crevasses were opening, but nothing major. Great trip!
Our friend John twisted a knee on approach to Libery Ridge. Dirk still cringes the fact that we did not keep going with out him. WE took Thom Capenis up the DC. Beautiful day. We passed everyone. This was again the hugest snow year in history so crevasses were nada.
This is my second time reaching the summit. Our party of 11, led by by Bill Link, ascended the Emmons route spending the first and second night at Emmons flats. There were several large rockfalls sloughing off of little Tahoma throughout the second day. By 12:15 AM on July 17 we we roped up and began the final push. The crevasses were all open and visible making for easy navigation.
Around 12,000 feet the wind began to pick up whipping down from the summit. It got stronger, the closer we got. When we came into view of the crater rim, gusts were blowing bits of ice and snow out over the edge of the bowl at 40+ mph. At this point two of our rope teams decided to turn back. Our rope of 3 continued up and along the ridge. One blast of 55 mph or so sent me flying off my feet onto the rocks. Walking was only possible while leaning far over to the side. It made for some wild fun.
Less rockfall danger than the DC route but many more crevasses and snowbridge crossings.
This was the icing on the cake after finishing my 13-day alpine climbing course with Mountain Madness. Haliku, Axe, and Old Guide flew out to meet me in Seattle after my course, so we could attempt this together. Old Guide stayed at Camp Muir while the rest of us made our summit bid. The weather couldn’t have been better and I was thrilled to take in the views from the summit. I’m so glad the guys came out for this!
7/14/11 - Made a really good attempt in marginal weather with my wife and chicagotransplant. Unfortunately, we had to turn back short of the summit. It was, however, beautiful between the storm up high and the rain/snow mix at Muir.
My fourth visit to the mountain. I climbed with Axe, Old Guide and rkymtn. We left Camp Muir at midnight and returned successful 11 hours later. The route was straight forward and in good condition.
We also ran into gurlyclimber, chicagotransplant and their friend Jody making the trip an accidental Summitpost gathering.
25 Sept 2003
My third visit to Rainier. Dad's goal during his 50's was to summit. Attempt #1 saw me on the top and Dad having turned around. On attempt #2 my brother Axe and I were turned around at 13,200 due to conditions. Dad didn't make it this year. Attempt #3 saw all three of us on the mountain. We woke up at dawn to high winds on the Ingraham flats. We decided to give it a go and enjoyed gusting winds that played with us by grabbing our packs and twisting us around or trying to knock us off the path and bridges. Fighting the wind drained us all more than the climb demands normally. Shortly before noon we made it to the crater rim and soon on the crest. Well Dad got his wish and we all got the mountaineering bug. Thanks Dad!
Beautiful weather, fun, fairly easy climb. Climbed it with Dad; what an awesome experience. I got to play mountain guide on this trip, since I was the only experienced climber in our group of 4 men ages 28-58, and me (19 year old woman). Funny combination. Everyone did great.
The Tetons have greatly changed what I view as steep. I expected this to be way harder than it turned out to be, and therefore it seemed very easy!
Now if I could only convince Dad to let me take him up the Grand....
Climbed with Mark under pretty much perfect conditions - a very lucky weather window.
Approached from Paradise on Friday via the lower Nisqually and Wilson glaciers (the Fan looked like it had a lot of debris in it) and camped around 10300' on the western edge of the Turtle.
Got a 4am start on Saturday, reached 11000' by 5 where we found ropes slung around boulders to descend to the start of the Kautz (about 20' drop down and then a traverse across gully below the ice cliff). Lower pitch was still just hard snow - easy to climb & descend. Second pitch was exposed glacier ice, nice and solid for screws, but took picks & points well. We pitched out this section, perhaps 40m of ice at around 40-50 degrees at most ? Lots of options for fun here - many good features to rest on and multiple variations. I led this pitch with about 3-4 screws (22cm) and basically went straight up the most obvious line.
Continued on up to Wapowety Cleaver and from there on to the summit crater, atop the summit by around 10:45am. There were some nice deep crevasses to cross, but good snowbridges and nothing really wide yet. The upper part from the top of the second pitch on to the summit was pretty well flagged with an easy-to-follow boot track.
The descent was the crux - back at the ice pitch we found an anchor in snow just above (probably buried pickets). This turned out to be about 75m from the base, and we only had a single 50m rope, so we rapped three times, using some Ti leaver screws (probably not very secure) and an ice pinnacle (bomber) as anchors. Probably could have made a couple of v-threads, but I was a bit worried about that with all the water running down the ice in the afternoon (probably a toss-up with the leaver screws though).
Returned to camp in the afternoon and decided to stay an extra night and hike out Sunday, which started out a bit windier and cloudier, but got hot and sunny down low.
Recommended eats in Ashford: Highlander Restaurant :)
July, 2005: attempted the Emmons route with a fairly weak team and poor weather. Took a long time to get up the Inter glacier and dragged into Camp Schurman, where we spent the night in a storm and then turned around the next day. The most fun part though was the 3rd class choss scramble down to the Emmons glacier from Camp Curtis (the "climber's trail" we'd read about was apparently in bad shape).
Summited with RMI on 6/19/06. Beautiful weather/conditions above 8,000 ft albeit cold on the upper mountain. We were fortunate and only had 9 people in our group. The hut was downright luxurious with so few people. We were the first people to summit today after passing many groups. Take that all you non-guided climbers. ;)
I cannot believe I did it. This mountin is huge!!!