Route Climbed: Emmons/DC Variation Date Climbed: August 24, 2000
Climbed to the summit with RMI Guides Alex Van Steen, Dave Hanning, and Ryan McGriff as part of a 6-day Expedition Seminar.
After a day of practicing cramponing and self-arrest techniques, we set off from Paradise with 50-60 lb packs. We made slow progress up the Muir Snowfield and crossed over onto the Paradise Glacier to establish our first camp at about 8,700 ft. At this camp, we got some practice building various types of snow anchors with an abundance of criticism from Alex.
The next day we moved up to Camp Muir, where we roped up and headed up over Cathedral Rocks. Upon reaching Ingraham Flats, we dropped down onto the Emmons Glacier and established our second camp at 10,600 ft. Our team was contemplating a summit attempt up the Emmons Shoulder, so we spent the afternoon scouting the route and kicking steps up the steep sections which we'd be faced with in the early-morning cold.
When we got back down to camp, several members of our team felt they were too tired to attempt the summit the next morning, so we elected to take a rest day for Crevasse Rescue training and general lounging. It was a good day. That night we had a meeting to discuss our plans for the summit. We decided to abandon the Emmons Shoulder, since we were uncertain of the condition on the upper portion of the route. Instead, we decided to climb the Emmons Glacier and traverse across to join DC from the opposite side from which it is usually approached.
The traverse and climb up to DC proved treacherous and required a running belay to protect against a fall into the GAPING crevasses directly below. Getting up onto the Cleaver involved some steep climbing over very loose scree. We all took a much needed rest upon gaining the Cleaver.
We then followed DC up to 12,500 ft where we exited onto the Ingraham Glacier to follow the Normal Route to the summit. Being late in the season, there were lots of exposed crevasses spanned by metal ladders. Our whole team reached the summit and then descended the Ingraham Direct route to our high camp.
The next day we spent some time ice climbing in the giant crevasses on Ingraham Flats before returning to Paradise.
The next day, I started hiking on the Wonderland Trail and completed the circuit in 9 days.
Made a one day ascent from Paradise to Ingraham Flats. No rest day, so it kicked my butt with all the weight, especially up Cathedral Gap. MSR EGK stove decided that it didn't want to work so we got behind with water and dinner. Got to bed 3 hours after everyone else and my wife had so heart palpitations that scared her so we stayed at Ingraham as they left camp at 1am. The rest of the team made it to the summit around 715am. The said it was a great day with little wind, and clear skies. The Muir snowfield on the way down was hell, as it was all ice and crap that made for a hasty descent, especially with the new crevasses forming. Could have put crampons on, but too tired and lazy to do something like that!
Route Climbed: Emmons/Winthrop Date Climbed: 07/24/01
Got an early start the night before at 1130pm from Camp Schurman, and climbed up until 12,400 feet where the wind and spindrift were completely overwhelming our rope teams. We turned back at 430 am and headed back down so that we could get down safely, and enjoy the trip, since the mountain isn't going anywhere that I can see. That route is the most indirect that the climbing ranger at Sherman has seen in years. So many crevasses causes routes to zig zag and traverse the whole way up. The trip up to Schurman via the Interglacier is in pretty bad conditions as well with a few snowbridges that have less than wanted compositions.
Route Climbed: Disappoinment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 9, 1967
This was my second and last mandatory climb to graduate from my basic mountaineering course at college. We climbed to Camp Muir on Friday, sat out bad weather on Saturday, and did the summit on Sunday. I was sicker than a dog on the summit. It was with a very slow party, with the consequence that only my rope team, which was last up first down, stayed out of the building cloud cap in the afternoon. Our rope waited for ages at the top of Disappointment Cleaver while they came down to us. I waited until about 7PM at Camp Muir before they got there, and they all decided to stay another night. The leader had told me I couldn't leave Muir until everyone had returned there. Then I went down to Paradise alone, and barely beat out darkness and a cloud bank that would have made it much more difficult to locate the lodge. I can't remember when I was more wasted. I tried to drive home, but couldn't make it, and missed a day of work. Being a native and proud Washingtonian with a huge passion for my home state's mountains, climbing its major landmark at age 20 was a very satisfying accomplishment. But I've never had an urge to do it again! :-)
Tom Fralich - Sep 8, 2001 8:41 pm
Route Climbed: Emmons/DC Variation Date Climbed: August 24, 2000Climbed to the summit with RMI Guides Alex Van Steen, Dave Hanning, and Ryan McGriff as part of a 6-day Expedition Seminar.
After a day of practicing cramponing and self-arrest techniques, we set off from Paradise with 50-60 lb packs. We made slow progress up the Muir Snowfield and crossed over onto the Paradise Glacier to establish our first camp at about 8,700 ft. At this camp, we got some practice building various types of snow anchors with an abundance of criticism from Alex.
The next day we moved up to Camp Muir, where we roped up and headed up over Cathedral Rocks. Upon reaching Ingraham Flats, we dropped down onto the Emmons Glacier and established our second camp at 10,600 ft. Our team was contemplating a summit attempt up the Emmons Shoulder, so we spent the afternoon scouting the route and kicking steps up the steep sections which we'd be faced with in the early-morning cold.
When we got back down to camp, several members of our team felt they were too tired to attempt the summit the next morning, so we elected to take a rest day for Crevasse Rescue training and general lounging. It was a good day. That night we had a meeting to discuss our plans for the summit. We decided to abandon the Emmons Shoulder, since we were uncertain of the condition on the upper portion of the route. Instead, we decided to climb the Emmons Glacier and traverse across to join DC from the opposite side from which it is usually approached.
The traverse and climb up to DC proved treacherous and required a running belay to protect against a fall into the GAPING crevasses directly below. Getting up onto the Cleaver involved some steep climbing over very loose scree. We all took a much needed rest upon gaining the Cleaver.
We then followed DC up to 12,500 ft where we exited onto the Ingraham Glacier to follow the Normal Route to the summit. Being late in the season, there were lots of exposed crevasses spanned by metal ladders. Our whole team reached the summit and then descended the Ingraham Direct route to our high camp.
The next day we spent some time ice climbing in the giant crevasses on Ingraham Flats before returning to Paradise.
The next day, I started hiking on the Wonderland Trail and completed the circuit in 9 days.
scot'teryx - Aug 23, 2001 10:47 am
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: 08/18/01-08/19/01Made a one day ascent from Paradise to Ingraham Flats. No rest day, so it kicked my butt with all the weight, especially up Cathedral Gap. MSR EGK stove decided that it didn't want to work so we got behind with water and dinner. Got to bed 3 hours after everyone else and my wife had so heart palpitations that scared her so we stayed at Ingraham as they left camp at 1am. The rest of the team made it to the summit around 715am. The said it was a great day with little wind, and clear skies. The Muir snowfield on the way down was hell, as it was all ice and crap that made for a hasty descent, especially with the new crevasses forming. Could have put crampons on, but too tired and lazy to do something like that!
Bob Burd - Aug 17, 2001 3:52 pm
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 15-16, 2001Great weather, great time. Trip Report Here
scot'teryx - Jul 25, 2001 9:51 am
Route Climbed: Emmons/Winthrop Date Climbed: 07/24/01Got an early start the night before at 1130pm from Camp Schurman, and climbed up until 12,400 feet where the wind and spindrift were completely overwhelming our rope teams. We turned back at 430 am and headed back down so that we could get down safely, and enjoy the trip, since the mountain isn't going anywhere that I can see. That route is the most indirect that the climbing ranger at Sherman has seen in years. So many crevasses causes routes to zig zag and traverse the whole way up. The trip up to Schurman via the Interglacier is in pretty bad conditions as well with a few snowbridges that have less than wanted compositions.
Jim Clarke - Jul 24, 2001 8:16 pm
Route Climbed: Fuhrer's Finger Date Climbed: 6/28/01Skied and Climbed away from the crowds on a great route...stable weather for two days...great ski descent back to Paradise Lodge.
durocher - Jul 3, 2001 11:43 am
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: June 30, 2001camped at Ingraham flats and summited in ideal conditions with Matt Brown, James Grant, and Mark McCann at around 6am
dbutler - Apr 6, 2001 5:14 am
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July 2000Reached the summit on July 3rd with Jennifer Roy.
Bob Bolton - Apr 5, 2001 3:09 pm
Route Climbed: Disappoinment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 9, 1967This was my second and last mandatory climb to graduate from my basic mountaineering course at college. We climbed to Camp Muir on Friday, sat out bad weather on Saturday, and did the summit on Sunday. I was sicker than a dog on the summit. It was with a very slow party, with the consequence that only my rope team, which was last up first down, stayed out of the building cloud cap in the afternoon. Our rope waited for ages at the top of Disappointment Cleaver while they came down to us. I waited until about 7PM at Camp Muir before they got there, and they all decided to stay another night. The leader had told me I couldn't leave Muir until everyone had returned there. Then I went down to Paradise alone, and barely beat out darkness and a cloud bank that would have made it much more difficult to locate the lodge. I can't remember when I was more wasted. I tried to drive home, but couldn't make it, and missed a day of work. Being a native and proud Washingtonian with a huge passion for my home state's mountains, climbing its major landmark at age 20 was a very satisfying accomplishment. But I've never had an urge to do it again! :-)
Josh - Mar 28, 2001 9:21 am
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 1998A fun "climb."