This was my second attempt to summit Rainier. My first attempt was one year and one day earlier. I learned a lot from my first time on the mountain. Be in the best physical shape that you can get into before you make an attempt. The better shape you are in then the more fun the climb will be. The first year was with a RMI expedition climb. What I learned on that trip was well worth the expense. This summit was with a friend that was an experienced climber. I was fortunate to have weather good enough to climb in on both my trips. See Alpine Air 2000, and Return to Rainier in my reports section.
Ash on the mountain from the eruption of Mt. St. Helens.
July 7, 2001, Pat, Scott, Steve and I headed out from the Paradise ranger station on a beautiful sunny day and climbed up to Camp Muir arriving around noon. We set up camp and prepared for a midnight push for the summit. The night was crisp and cloudless with a full moon so headlamps were not really needed. With Steve leading the rope team we reached the summit at 7am and only passed one other group of climbers. We spent some time at the summit and there were quite a few larger slow moving teams we passed on the way down. We spent another night at Camp Muir, while most other people packed up and headed off the mountain. The next day Scot skied down the Muir snow field while the rest of use used sitting glissades. Since we planned 5 days for this trip and only used 2 to climb Mt. Rainier we went up and checked out the Ho Rain Forest. This climbing trip couldn’t have been more perfect! Darryl
Our group of six students from the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign decided to spend our Spring break by climbing Mt.Rainier. Once we get to Paradise (5500 ft) we started to hick through a deep snow to Camp Muir. (10000 ft). The last 100 m were quite difficult. The weather was getting worse and with terrible wisibility we could hardly kept ourself from falling at constant 40mil/hour wind gust. After waiting 2 days for good weather we finally made our first attempt to reach the summit by the Gibraltar Ledges. Since we never climbed together. We moved pretty slow. Thus at about half point we decided to turn back. The second attempt was more successful. We started at 12:00 am and chose to go by Ingram Direct Route. It was quite an exhaustive strenuous walk through the deep (some times waist deep) snow. Finally we reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier. The most interesting part was that we also had to walk back to the parking lot and drive to the airport. On the way dow from the camp Muir we got lost in the dark. After camping in the snow we decent early in the morning.
Summited with James A. Harrison, Jr., of Santa Fe, New Mexico. We drove from Albuquerque, NM (24 hours straight), arrived at Paradise in the morning, and made our way to Camp Muir. We left for the summit early the next morning (1 a.m.), tagged it at about 7:00, and made it back down to Muir by noon or so. We hauled butt down to Paradise, drove to Yakima, got a hotel, and slept for about 15 hrs before returning to Albuquerque the next day. It was a very beautiful summit day: no clouds, and no wind. The problem, though, was the crowds: we were in a traffic jam all the way to the summit (this was a weekend). Next time, I'll make sure to go during the middle of the week.
Great Climb. Camped at Camp Muir for 1 night and left for the summit at 12:00AM. Enjoyed a calm night. Had alot of trouble with one of my crampons in the bowling alley. I definitely recomment making sure that they fit snuggly the night before. Had to go up to Ingrahm Flats with just one crampon. The Cleaver was not very challenging. Huge crevasses around 13,000 feet opening up right in the middle of the route. Took alot of time to test snow bridges for stability. Definietely recommend taking glacier and crevasse seminar before climbing without a guide. Calm weather at the summit. Enjoyed the entire climb and intend to return to try another route very soon.
Coming from sea level I experienced altitude problems when I reached Camp Muir. *$#%@#!! But after resting for a few hours I felt fine when we started for the summit at 2am. Pressure breathing all the way to the top worked wonders and I experienced no ill effects at all. A beautiful mountain. The Cleaver itself was challenging, but not as difficult as I expected after reading some trip reports. I imagine this was because it was dry.
Good conditions and not too many RMI trains to pass. Passed at 14,000 ft. by a North Face R&D team of two Brazilian brothers literally running up the glacier in trail shoes to tag the summit for the second time in as many days. Mutants.
The mountain in 1985 was in 100 year drought and blue with ice. Andy Fried, Robert Somoano and I, climbed the Libery Ridge in the kind of conditions, you would expect to see in September. Blue ice was everywhere, something the three of us from Southern California just couldn't get enough of. We spend three days on the route, mostly because we really had to ice climb the route, it was pretty technical. I made a note to myself after we came down, not to ever wonder why so many climbers from the Northwest US had so much success in the High Mountains. With "training" ground like this, no wonder. This was one beautiful big mountain climb, a line I will never forget.
Stayed at Muir after a long HOT day on the Muir Snowfeild. Left around midnight and proceeded over DIssapointment Cleaver to witness several teams backed up in the Igram Flats area. As we rested on top of the cleaver we watched the sun rise over the Cascades and watching the string of lights still backed up in the Flats. After watching all the teams backed up in the Ingram Flats area and listening to constant rockfall coming from the frock face to the south of the route I descided I would never ascend through that area.
After two days at Camp Muir, just bumming around and enjoying the weather we departed around midnight to the light of the full moon. The three of us reached the plateau and Ingraham flats within an hour from Camp Muir. We passed three other teams on the cleaver with minimal rock fall from above. some slmall ice falls on the Danger Traverse below the cleaver. By 1:30 we had gained the cleaver above 11,000 ft. Great weather and clear skies with minimal wind up to about 14,000 ft. reached the crater by 5:30, beautiful sunrise and wonderful decent. I experienced some light-headedness as a result of my frozen camel back hose and thus, dehydration. overall, a beautiful climb.
Had we stayed at Ingram Flats for another hour, we would have witnessed the avalanche that swept two parties off the cleaver., killing one that day. Always climb early!
Pulled unroped woman out of crevasse on Inter Glacier (most wrongly assume this snowfield has no crevasses). Camped at Camp Schurman on rocks (pays to arrive Thurs night). 2 of 3 in party summited (myself and Janna Martin).
Beautiful day, just a bit warm. Took the DC route, and it was getting tough to go that way due to the melted out conditions.
We were going to do the Kautz, but conditions were bad, so we went DC. Had to stay at Muir for a couple of days to avoid bad weather, high winds. The 4th was a perfect climb day, hit the top at about 9am. My first REAL mountain!
At age twelve, I felt very small compard to the maountain, and the stupid jokes about my size made by my partners didn't help, but I was still able to summit, when many of them couldn't. How do you like me now, Guys?
Colin C., Krister S., Tom H. & Joe L. Summited on Tues under perfect conditions. Minimal wind and no precip. Freezing alt. was approx 14,000 ft. Icefall was epic bellow ice cliff.
Summited for the 4th time August 17th 98 on my 25th birthday, summited again August 18th 2002 the day after my 29th. Had a great 3 day climb up the Emmons.
See link below for pictures and trip report.
Arrived at Muir on Friday to a great day with blue skies. Rested on Saturday and waited for our 4th member to bring the rope. Left Sunday morning at 1230 and arrived at the summit at 7am. The cleaver was hell, and once above the cleaver it is just plain simple, no navigation and tons of switchbacks, probably because of the time of year and such, but it was still fun to share the summit with my wife alison. Got lost on the cleaver on the way down since there are so many wands marking various routes. Back at Muir at 12 noon and to the car at 345pm. Long summit day for sure.
Reached Schurman Camp on the 28th and was greeted by blue skies and high winds. We planned on
making our summit bid that evening but decided against it due to the increasing high winds. Next year for sure!!!