Ran into bad weather and had to abort climb. The rangers said the storm would stick around for two days, so everyone in my group decided to bail. The hike to Muir was brutal.
The weather was beautiful and the snow conditions were great... Crossing numerous crevasses along Ingraham Glacier Direct wasn't always easy, but reaching the summit was well worth all of the challenges of the hike.
Unbelievable weather for four days straight. Definitely full days, but well worth it. Great learning experience for me. Highly recommended.
Spectacular weather all 4 days we're up there. Climbed with Dave German and Brad Mastros. Took 11.5 hrs to summit from Thumb Rock. Crowds and bottleneck at the crux. I spent over an hour waiting for Dave & Brad to climb the ice as they themselves were waiting for the 3-person Russian team to finish climbing (the Russians arrived first at the base of the ice and we didn't want to rain down tons of ice on them). All 4 teams, including ourselves, decided to camp out on the summit crater as we're all spent. Next day (Thurs, May 31st) we descended the Emmons-Winthrop glacier and down to the White River campground trailhead. TR to follow soon.
Date Climbed: July 5, 2004
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver
After a failed attempt in June 2003, this time we nailed it. Our Los Angeles/Chicago team summited Rainier Monday, July 5th, 2004. All 7 of us summited--- rope team #1: mdostby, Steven Sauter, jimconsid, Gibran Begum; rope team #2: agorokhov, Jamie Norris, myself.
We left Camp Muir at 12:15am and reached the summit crater rim at 9:20am. We unroped at the crater rim and then everyone went at their own pace to tag the true summit (Columbia Crest: 14,411'). I made the summit at 9:37am. Then, after the mandatory summit pictures, we all headed down at 10:00am. We were luckly to have excellent weather and perfect route conditions for the most part. Most of us were spent after the climb and decided to stay an additional night at Camp Muir before heading out to Paradise the next day. We had our celebratory dinner at Puerto Vallarta Mexican restaurant in Eatonville, WA. Great food! I highly recommend to eat here after your climb.
Date Climbed: June 18, 2003
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver
No summit. We reached 11,900' (just a few hundred feet below the top of the Cleaver).
Our team: Mike (mdostby), Alex (agorokhov), Murray Zichlinsky and myself. We had been planning this trip for the past 6 months. We even practiced crevasse rescue out of a bridge in the Los Angeles area.
We hiked in on a sunny Tuesday (June 17th) to Camp Muir. However, before leaving Paradise, we knew the weather forecast was calling for poor weather in days ahead. We thought we could beat the incoming bad weather---we were wrong. We roped up and started walking away from Camp Muir at 1:40am Wednesday June 18th. Crossed the Cowlitz Glacier, up thru Cathedral Gap (we encountered some idiots dislodging all kinds of rocks from above), skirted a few crevasses thru the Ingraham Glacier and by sunrise at 11,900 feet we decided to call it quits. The combination of high winds, inclement weather, and 2 team members who felt tired prompted us to turn around at this point. We safely made it back to Camp Muir, broke camp and headed down to the Paradise parking lot. We plan to try again next summer (July 2004).
Great Climb! Always dreamed of doing this since I can remember. Kautz had a few hairy spots, second ice cliff was interesting to climb with a 90cm old school ax. No complaints, amazing climb! Best of luck to all others attempting this season, keep pushing, it's worth!
I've never done anything tougher in my life than summit Rainier.
Day 1. Arrived at Camp Muir at about 5pm.
Day 2. Woke up at 12:45am, left Camp Muir at 2am, summitted at 11:45am, arrived back at Camp Muir at 4pm. (Wasted a *ton* of time on the descent due to a "stupid move" by a climbing partner.)
Day 3. Made the descent from Camp Muir to Paradise in 2 hours and 45 minutes.
Brutal, but worth it!
via Ingraham Glacier Direct. Awesome climb, great day, good weather.
This was a very hard but rewarding mountain to climb. Weather changes very fast. It was very cold on top.
Perfect day; windy uptop.
Highly recommend a night at the historic Paradise Inn. Looking out over the clouds at sunrise was incredible.
tons of snow compared to many mountains awesome climb lots of fun
Left Camp Muir on April 19th around 4am, arrived at the summit in 6hr 5min. I was with a group of 9 clients and 4 guides from RMI to arrive at Columbia Crest. It was an amazing day and I arrived at the summit wearing only a long sleeve base layer shirt on top - that's how nice it was. It was probably 45F on the summit.
Due to the massive amounts of snow (vs a summer attempt), we came up the Ingraham Glacier Route and made a pretty direct path up to the summit. Most of the crevasses were bridged over and limited route finding was necessary by our lead guide.
What an incredible day. Since the park has been closed to the public since the November rain storms, I believe we were the first people to summit since November.
We were so lucky to have such an incredible day.
Very enjoyable climb.
Well guess what... only two to go....
Randolf; Blue ... Congrats...
We all made it to the very top of Rainier...
It was crazy windy but guess what... only one left...
Here we come Gannett Peak, WY
My wife and I climbed it on our 9th aniversary, had a great time passing guided groups, met a lot of cool people.
By far the baddest peak in the lower 48. My first summit was by the Kautz Glacier, second by Liberty Ridge. Wish I lived closer - I'd be in much better shape.
What a wonderful Mountain. I had the time of my life. I can hardly wait until I can climb it again. Summit #1
This particular time was the third time I've summited Rainier (second for the summer of 2006) and my roomate and I spent the night on the summit. It was a leisurely 3 day trip up the Emmons in almost ideal weather (a little drizzle while bivied up the Emmons on top of the corridor).
What an experience. We had nice weather, with a little bit of snow while we slept at Muir. I'd say this was one of the hardest things i've done, but was also one of the most satisfying. I hope to do lots of other great peaks like Rainier.
Great straightforward climb. Spent an extra day at the high camps which made the summit day feel alot easier than previous Rainier climbs. Even with the crowds Rainier is a always a great experience.