Mitch and I negated the Ingraham Direct route up and took the DC down. We climbed with Paul & Chuck of Ft. Lewis. Quit stealing my Oxygen! No wind, warm and tons of crevasses. Daily thunder and lightning in the afternoon with snow or hail. Clear at night and into mid-day. Conditions repeated June 11th, 12th and 13th ..
Our party of 3 climbed through clouds at Paradise and into sunshine, where we camped near the Fuhrer Finger. Great conditions on the Finger. We were on the summit for 5 minutes before a lenticular cloud hit us. Started down the DC and the clouds broke when we entered the crevasse fields. The Finger was a fun route cause we felt like we had the mountain to ourselves.
Great weather and great partners.
Climbed the Emmons Route direct on June 2, 2009. Very windy at Camp Schurman, but no wind at all once we were on the corridor. Spectacular conditions - we were able to ascend the route directly over the bergscrund on a large snowbridge. The last several hundred feet before the crater rim was solid blue ice which required some careful steps. We had the entire summit to ourselves. Descended via the Winthrop Traverse due to extremely hot conditions, and we weren't sure what the snow condition on the steep direct ascent face would be like. Made it to the summit around 6:30 in the morning, took a long break at the summit and a few breaks on the way down ... back at camp by 1 pm. Tired, but exhilarated! I had been weathered off the mountain in 2007 and 2008, so this was my third attempt - victory is sweet!
Camped on the flats and took the Ingraham Direct. Summitted around 0545 and had the summit to ourselves for about an hour. Incredible. This marks my 3rd attempt and 2nd summit. I would certainly camp at the flats again.
Made it to about 11700 and turned back due to wind. Sky was clear and beautiful, but the wind was a little much for a fair weather climber.
Summited via the Ingrham Direct on an amazingly sunny day. A 4-person rope team broke through a bench into a cravase only 20 minutes after my team crossed it. I punced through in another up to my knees. The day before I summited a guide fell into a steam vent on the summit and got airlifed out.
Great stretch of weather. An AAI client broke the snowbridge in Ingraham's first big crevasse and the incident turned away 13 climbers. Another member went down 200 meters from the summit with cerebral edema. After another member bonked in the middle of the summit crater, I was the only one to stand atop the true summit from our team of four.
Summitted with a group doing a five-day RMI program. Amazing experience. Perfect weather for the climb too!
DC route. 3 hours from Muir to summit. Perfect weather.
Dave Hahn was the lead guide
5 day expedition to try and acclimatize from Florida. We took the Kautz route for challenge and it was as advertised. Great group and RMI giudes.
A dozen teams turned back that morning due to the lightning storm that had pickets and ice screws buzzing and sparking in the night. Shrouded by clouds, lightning exploded all around but we raced on through the storm for three hours before it subsided to pitch black winds. When the morning finally came, only one other party of 12, the Climb for Cancer Foundation, made the summit. This trip kicked ass. 10 years and one week earlier, my best friend died in my arms at Camp Schurman from a lethal asthma attack and this trip marked my only time back to Rainier since. Very emotional summit for me. Epic in every sense of the climb!
First try on the fuhrer finger....MASSIVE slab avalanche on the lower wilson kept us down low and we made the decision to bail. 2nd try on the dc due to time constraints....turned back at 13,200 feet due to a member coming down with symptoms of AMS and whiteout conditions. Def could of summited. back in 09 for lib ridge and the finger.
My climbing partners and I all bought plane tickets two months before our trip to Rainier and couldn't have timed it with the weather any better.
Had three beautiful days while we were up there and summit day was very clear. Gib Ledges was in great condition. High winds (75mph+) and a whiteout started soon after we returned to Camp Muir from the summit.
Descended to Paradise in a whiteout the following day.
my friend took a little slide above Ingram Flats. Good thing I was able to stop him or I would have missed my wedding which was in 3 months.
It was some time ago, what a great climb though, time to head back!
awesome climb!!! I climbed with a large group through RMI and we were the only group on the mountain and we had good weather!!!! You can't ask for more than that, but it did get pretty windy at the summit.
climbed with adrian via DC. Waaay to many people. Plan to do via less popular or harder routes. good trip
Denali Prep trip. After living in Seattle and staring at Rainier for 34 years it was funny to have to fly back to Seattle (after moving to Michigan) to climb it. Took the Emmons Glacier Route and had an uneventual trip except for the Scarpa's that made hamburger out of my feet .... note to self .... not good to break in new boots on Rainier!