Winds died down a bit today allowing us to make it when others day before were all turned back on this route. One scary as hell crossing of an ice "bridge" along a thin ledge over a gnarly crevasse where a fall would have meant death for sure. Not too bad in the dark, though, really, and the rest of the route was pretty routine although long and painful of course.
Plenty of snow bridges rapidly thinning hopefully the park service will be assiting with route adjustments this week as I don't think several of them can last much longer.
tb00957 - Jun 29, 2009 2:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2009
kautz
Lucky with the weather. Whiteout the day in, bad weather last day, but we got a break in the middle. Windy and cold but clear for the summit day.
gcap - Jun 29, 2009 12:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2009
SP group climb
via the DC with 3 other SP'er. Great partners, excellent weather. Thx guys! Looking forward to the next one.
Hotfeet - Jun 27, 2009 1:05 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2009
Summit post group climb!
I climbed the DC with three great climbers I met right here on summit post! The entire trip was great and I thank my fellow Sp ers for a fantastic time! Summit #2
Vertigo soul - Jun 26, 2009 2:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2009
DC
My first summit of Rainier. Great climb and mountain! Me and three other SP'ers (Mickowitsch, Hotfeet & gcap) were lucky to get a nice weather window. Would love to go back and climb a different route.
2nd Summit - July 12, 2012: via the Kautz Glacier. Great climb and again perfect weather made for a successful day!
RomaK - Jun 23, 2009 8:07 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2009
Second Time on DC
Great moonlit night and a beautiful day in the midst of a weather system that brought afternoon thunderstorms to the upper mountain. Climbed above a sea of clouds. Took 3 days this time, feels much more pleasant despite the fact that I was not in very good shape.
skyward22 - Jun 21, 2009 2:20 am Date Climbed: May 21, 2009
simultaneous success and dissapointment
Wanted to go after Liberty Ridge but couldn't due to the road closures in early season; very dissapointing as this was to be a test piece for me. Ended up summiting via Ingraham glacier in what was a long snow slog. Only had to cross 2 open crevasses.
With Jill and Alton. This climb was amazing. The eastern skyline at dawn on the way up was one of the most beautiful scenes I have ever experienced in my life. The climb was pretty straightforward (thanks, Alton, if you're out there, for leading the way) but it did take a lot out of me (Alton had the pedal to the metal--we blew by several parties on the way up). Weather was perfect. Everything was perfect. Now, when I'm in Washington or flying over and see the mountain there in all its glory, I think, "Wow, I stood on top of that puppy," and it still blows me away. A truly satisfying mountaineering experience that rates five stars on my "Highlights of Life" list.
Schuetzenweber - Jun 17, 2009 10:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2009
Perfect Conditions!
Mitch and I negated the Ingraham Direct route up and took the DC down. We climbed with Paul & Chuck of Ft. Lewis. Quit stealing my Oxygen! No wind, warm and tons of crevasses. Daily thunder and lightning in the afternoon with snow or hail. Clear at night and into mid-day. Conditions repeated June 11th, 12th and 13th ..
alpine climber - Jun 10, 2009 10:31 am Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2009
white outs and sunshine on the finger
Our party of 3 climbed through clouds at Paradise and into sunshine, where we camped near the Fuhrer Finger. Great conditions on the Finger. We were on the summit for 5 minutes before a lenticular cloud hit us. Started down the DC and the clouds broke when we entered the crevasse fields. The Finger was a fun route cause we felt like we had the mountain to ourselves.
ScottNScout - Jun 9, 2009 1:51 am Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2006
Rainier Summit
Great weather and great partners.
sourstraw - Jun 3, 2009 11:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2009
Emmons Route
Climbed the Emmons Route direct on June 2, 2009. Very windy at Camp Schurman, but no wind at all once we were on the corridor. Spectacular conditions - we were able to ascend the route directly over the bergscrund on a large snowbridge. The last several hundred feet before the crater rim was solid blue ice which required some careful steps. We had the entire summit to ourselves. Descended via the Winthrop Traverse due to extremely hot conditions, and we weren't sure what the snow condition on the steep direct ascent face would be like. Made it to the summit around 6:30 in the morning, took a long break at the summit and a few breaks on the way down ... back at camp by 1 pm. Tired, but exhilarated! I had been weathered off the mountain in 2007 and 2008, so this was my third attempt - victory is sweet!
mcpherma - May 30, 2009 12:44 am Date Climbed: May 23, 2009
2nd Summit
Camped on the flats and took the Ingraham Direct. Summitted around 0545 and had the summit to ourselves for about an hour. Incredible. This marks my 3rd attempt and 2nd summit. I would certainly camp at the flats again.
mcpherma - May 30, 2009 12:41 am Date Climbed: Apr 24, 2009
2nd attempt
Made it to about 11700 and turned back due to wind. Sky was clear and beautiful, but the wind was a little much for a fair weather climber.
skotty - May 27, 2009 8:54 pm Date Climbed: May 25, 2009
Great climb
Summited via the Ingrham Direct on an amazingly sunny day. A 4-person rope team broke through a bench into a cravase only 20 minutes after my team crossed it. I punced through in another up to my knees. The day before I summited a guide fell into a steam vent on the summit and got airlifed out.
junoiceclimber - May 25, 2009 11:12 pm Date Climbed: May 22, 2009
One fell and 13 descended
Great stretch of weather. An AAI client broke the snowbridge in Ingraham's first big crevasse and the incident turned away 13 climbers. Another member went down 200 meters from the summit with cerebral edema. After another member bonked in the middle of the summit crater, I was the only one to stand atop the true summit from our team of four.
pingzingr - May 18, 2009 12:21 am Date Climbed: May 17, 2009
Ingraham Direct
Summitted with a group doing a five-day RMI program. Amazing experience. Perfect weather for the climb too!
gato - Jul 20, 2009 1:32 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2009
The start of the seasonFirst summit of the season. Three down now, in varying conditions.
Curtissimo - Jul 16, 2009 12:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2009
Big TAHOMA via EmmonsWinds died down a bit today allowing us to make it when others day before were all turned back on this route. One scary as hell crossing of an ice "bridge" along a thin ledge over a gnarly crevasse where a fall would have meant death for sure. Not too bad in the dark, though, really, and the rest of the route was pretty routine although long and painful of course.
Plenty of snow bridges rapidly thinning hopefully the park service will be assiting with route adjustments this week as I don't think several of them can last much longer.
justing - Jul 15, 2009 4:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2009
Failure on the EmmonsWeather sucked. Turned back at around 11.7k. I'll hopefully be back.
Luddite - Jul 12, 2009 1:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2009
DCGreat conditions with a full moon.
tb00957 - Jun 29, 2009 2:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2009
kautzLucky with the weather. Whiteout the day in, bad weather last day, but we got a break in the middle. Windy and cold but clear for the summit day.
gcap - Jun 29, 2009 12:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2009
SP group climbvia the DC with 3 other SP'er. Great partners, excellent weather. Thx guys! Looking forward to the next one.
Hotfeet - Jun 27, 2009 1:05 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2009
Summit post group climb!I climbed the DC with three great climbers I met right here on summit post! The entire trip was great and I thank my fellow Sp ers for a fantastic time! Summit #2
Vertigo soul - Jun 26, 2009 2:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2009
DCMy first summit of Rainier. Great climb and mountain! Me and three other SP'ers (Mickowitsch, Hotfeet & gcap) were lucky to get a nice weather window. Would love to go back and climb a different route.
2nd Summit - July 12, 2012: via the Kautz Glacier. Great climb and again perfect weather made for a successful day!
RomaK - Jun 23, 2009 8:07 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2009
Second Time on DCGreat moonlit night and a beautiful day in the midst of a weather system that brought afternoon thunderstorms to the upper mountain. Climbed above a sea of clouds. Took 3 days this time, feels much more pleasant despite the fact that I was not in very good shape.
skyward22 - Jun 21, 2009 2:20 am Date Climbed: May 21, 2009
simultaneous success and dissapointmentWanted to go after Liberty Ridge but couldn't due to the road closures in early season; very dissapointing as this was to be a test piece for me. Ended up summiting via Ingraham glacier in what was a long snow slog. Only had to cross 2 open crevasses.
TheRootster - Jun 21, 2009 12:18 am
Emmons GlacierWith Jill and Alton. This climb was amazing. The eastern skyline at dawn on the way up was one of the most beautiful scenes I have ever experienced in my life. The climb was pretty straightforward (thanks, Alton, if you're out there, for leading the way) but it did take a lot out of me (Alton had the pedal to the metal--we blew by several parties on the way up). Weather was perfect. Everything was perfect. Now, when I'm in Washington or flying over and see the mountain there in all its glory, I think, "Wow, I stood on top of that puppy," and it still blows me away. A truly satisfying mountaineering experience that rates five stars on my "Highlights of Life" list.
Schuetzenweber - Jun 17, 2009 10:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2009
Perfect Conditions!Mitch and I negated the Ingraham Direct route up and took the DC down. We climbed with Paul & Chuck of Ft. Lewis. Quit stealing my Oxygen! No wind, warm and tons of crevasses. Daily thunder and lightning in the afternoon with snow or hail. Clear at night and into mid-day. Conditions repeated June 11th, 12th and 13th ..
alpine climber - Jun 10, 2009 10:31 am Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2009
white outs and sunshine on the fingerOur party of 3 climbed through clouds at Paradise and into sunshine, where we camped near the Fuhrer Finger. Great conditions on the Finger. We were on the summit for 5 minutes before a lenticular cloud hit us. Started down the DC and the clouds broke when we entered the crevasse fields. The Finger was a fun route cause we felt like we had the mountain to ourselves.
ScottNScout - Jun 9, 2009 1:51 am Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2006
Rainier SummitGreat weather and great partners.
sourstraw - Jun 3, 2009 11:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2009
Emmons RouteClimbed the Emmons Route direct on June 2, 2009. Very windy at Camp Schurman, but no wind at all once we were on the corridor. Spectacular conditions - we were able to ascend the route directly over the bergscrund on a large snowbridge. The last several hundred feet before the crater rim was solid blue ice which required some careful steps. We had the entire summit to ourselves. Descended via the Winthrop Traverse due to extremely hot conditions, and we weren't sure what the snow condition on the steep direct ascent face would be like. Made it to the summit around 6:30 in the morning, took a long break at the summit and a few breaks on the way down ... back at camp by 1 pm. Tired, but exhilarated! I had been weathered off the mountain in 2007 and 2008, so this was my third attempt - victory is sweet!
mcpherma - May 30, 2009 12:44 am Date Climbed: May 23, 2009
2nd SummitCamped on the flats and took the Ingraham Direct. Summitted around 0545 and had the summit to ourselves for about an hour. Incredible. This marks my 3rd attempt and 2nd summit. I would certainly camp at the flats again.
mcpherma - May 30, 2009 12:41 am Date Climbed: Apr 24, 2009
2nd attemptMade it to about 11700 and turned back due to wind. Sky was clear and beautiful, but the wind was a little much for a fair weather climber.
skotty - May 27, 2009 8:54 pm Date Climbed: May 25, 2009
Great climbSummited via the Ingrham Direct on an amazingly sunny day. A 4-person rope team broke through a bench into a cravase only 20 minutes after my team crossed it. I punced through in another up to my knees. The day before I summited a guide fell into a steam vent on the summit and got airlifed out.
junoiceclimber - May 25, 2009 11:12 pm Date Climbed: May 22, 2009
One fell and 13 descendedGreat stretch of weather. An AAI client broke the snowbridge in Ingraham's first big crevasse and the incident turned away 13 climbers. Another member went down 200 meters from the summit with cerebral edema. After another member bonked in the middle of the summit crater, I was the only one to stand atop the true summit from our team of four.
pingzingr - May 18, 2009 12:21 am Date Climbed: May 17, 2009
Ingraham DirectSummitted with a group doing a five-day RMI program. Amazing experience. Perfect weather for the climb too!