Route Climbed: Emmons Glacier/Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 2000/June 2001/July 2002
First climbed Rainier via Emmons Glacier in 2000. We made it a three day trip. First night spent at Glacier Basin, second night at Emmons Flats, and summit on third day and hike all the way out.
Second summit of Rainier via DC in June 2001. Spending one night in Muir.
Third summit of Rainier was again by Emmons Glacier in July 2002.
We have always had beautiful weather on summit days. We've been lucky! This year, I would like to try Kautz Glacier or Gibraltor Ridge.
Route Climbed: Emmons/Winthrop; Liberty Ridge Date Climbed: June 1984, June 1987
Late June of '84 attempted Liberty Ridge with John Pfieffer-Spent 3 days tent bound on the Carbon Glacier. Backed out and drove around the mountain, waited a few days for the weather to change and climbed the Emmons Glacier Route. Returned in early June of '87, again with John Pfieffer, and climbed Liberty Ridge to the summit. Returned again in '89 to hike to the summit of Burroughs Mtn. from Glacier Basin with my wife Trudi. Fantastic views of Rainier from its summit.
Route Climbed: Inter/Emmons/Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: 8/22/03
Glacier was so broken up late in the year that crevasses were more common than snow. Numerous groups told us thier guides had fallen on on our way up. No problems for us though, besides the wind. It shredded my Mountain Hardwear tent while we made our summit run.
Route Climbed: Emmons/Winthrop Date Climbed: June 2001
Having flown in and out of Seattle many times, I had this mountain on my list for a few years before I got up it. I met 3 other people over the years who were also interested in doing it, Steve, Pete and Chris. Steve had been up the E/W route before and was our leader from the training right through to the summit. We got to Camp Schurman without incident only to find a pretty good snow storm greeting us so we melted ice and settled in to our tents, thinking that we might have to use one of our cushion days to wait the storm out. I woke up at 10PM and looked out to see clear skies, the Liberty Ridge in the moonlight and Seattle glowing through the clouds below us. We got going around 1AM and were breaking trail through 8 inches of new snow. When the alpenglow hit us and we looked back towards the sun, it brought tears to my eyes. I had never seen anthing so beautiful. We crossed the bergschrund without incident but were warned by the rangers passing us that the bridge would probably collapse by the time we re-crossed it coming down. I was surprised at how big the crater was on Columbia Crest. On our way down the rangers warning came true as 3 out of 4 in our group fell in to the crevasse with a 200 foot fall below us. Well, Pete was last on the rope tried to jump across the void. He failed and bounced off the wall of the crevasse. We got him out, got back down to high camp and then had the pleasure of watching all the other teams follow the route that we had put up earlier in the day. Definitely one of the most amazing days of my life. If you have not climbed this mountain, you should.
Route Climbed: Paradise side via Camp Muir Date Climbed: early July, 1954
A couple of weeks before I was drafted into the army, my family went to Mount Rainier National Park. Here I confronted the most beautiful mountain I had seen since I climbed the Grand Teton in 1950. Rather than rock, Rainier presented me with my first experience using crampons on ice. I met the Whittaker twins, both who towered above my six feet. They were the official Rainier guides. They alternated conducting alpine amateurs like me to the 14,411 crest of the volcanic peak. I put out $40 and drew Lou as my climbing guide. Jim was to conduct the easier snow cave tour which my younger sister took. The next day Lou, I and three others hiked up to Camp Muir above ten thousand feet where we spent the night. Early the next day we were all roped together climbing around a huge crevasse and up along some cliffs to the edge of an ice fall. Slowly Lou led us up a snowy ravine that led to a long icy slope and to the rim of the crater. By then the wind had picked up and on a level spot we all agreed to stop a couple of hundred feet short of the actual summit well off to left of us. I remember that the highest point was called Columbia Crest or Point Columbia. The weather was clear and we could see every peak in the Cascade Range including Mount Saint Helens whose classic white cone was then fifteen hundred feet higher than it is now.
Nine years later I rejoiced when I read that Lou's brother, Jim, became the first American to climb Mount Everest. In 1975, Lou appeared in Gainesville, Florida, on a book tour. I invited him home for lunch and showed him the slides I took of him wrapped snugly in his white parka hood on Rainier. He was then preparing an expedition to climb K2. I wished then I had the time and means to go with him. However I was 42-years-old and out of shape, too poor and too lazy after having climbed in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, attaining the summit of Vallunaraju and getting high on Huascaran four years before.
Great climb. The weather was surprisingly cooperative, except windy on the summit. My dad and i had a little window of time to run up to Washington to climb it for one last trip before i headed to college (which is where i am now), and it was worth it. I would say all in all it was probably the most beautiful climb i've done. Now i just can't wait to do it again. =-)
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: September 12, 2003
Second time to the summit and finally the weather cooperated. Clear blue sky above 10000 feet. The only drawback was a furious wind which tried valiantly to blow me off the crater rim. Not before I signed the register though!
Route Climbed: Ingrham Direct Date Climbed: June 15, 2002
If you are not going with a guide group stay off this route (DC later in year). It can get busy. If you want to do it, spend the night on the flats and get a jump on the guide groups. Its about 1 hour from camp Muir to the flats, and well worth it.
Route Climbed: DC Route Date Climbed: August 31, 2003
After two aborted attempts, we finally made it! Taking four days, and having great weather made it very enjoyable. Left Ingraham Flats at 2AM, stood on the true summit at 9:30. Mild wind except on the summit. Visibility limited only by the curve of the earth! Too bad that only 2 of the original 4 made it.
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: August 18th 2003
Breathtaking, me and my 2 fellow climbers (Steve and Rich) made the summit at around 8am after our climb up from camp at Ingram flats.Only our second glaciated peak but hopefully one of many more to come. A perfect day, amazing views and a day i'll never forget. I definately intend to return again someday.
Chris - Mar 22, 2004 9:45 pm
Route Climbed: Emmons Glacier Date Climbed: July 1996Magnificent mountain, great climb.
esugi - Mar 7, 2004 12:07 am
Route Climbed: Emmons Glacier/Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 2000/June 2001/July 2002First climbed Rainier via Emmons Glacier in 2000. We made it a three day trip. First night spent at Glacier Basin, second night at Emmons Flats, and summit on third day and hike all the way out.
Second summit of Rainier via DC in June 2001. Spending one night in Muir.
Third summit of Rainier was again by Emmons Glacier in July 2002.
We have always had beautiful weather on summit days. We've been lucky! This year, I would like to try Kautz Glacier or Gibraltor Ridge.
cascadeclimber1978 - Feb 8, 2004 12:44 am
Route Climbed: kautz glacier Date Climbed: september 12-14, 2003best trip on rainier ever
Dave Dinnell - Jan 9, 2004 4:25 pm
Route Climbed: Emmons/Winthrop; Liberty Ridge Date Climbed: June 1984, June 1987Late June of '84 attempted Liberty Ridge with John Pfieffer-Spent 3 days tent bound on the Carbon Glacier. Backed out and drove around the mountain, waited a few days for the weather to change and climbed the Emmons Glacier Route. Returned in early June of '87, again with John Pfieffer, and climbed Liberty Ridge to the summit. Returned again in '89 to hike to the summit of Burroughs Mtn. from Glacier Basin with my wife Trudi. Fantastic views of Rainier from its summit.
chasej - Dec 22, 2003 1:12 pm
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 7, 2001Climbed with RMI on the 5 day seminar. RMI did a great job helping me learn the skills to feel comfortable on the mountain.
ricardo - Dec 3, 2003 8:46 am
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: Aug´2003Great Mountain, but weather was bad until we came back down in the Ingrham flats. I just followed the crowds to the top.
bdewoody - Dec 3, 2003 12:57 am
Route Climbed: Inter/Emmons/Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: 8/22/03Glacier was so broken up late in the year that crevasses were more common than snow. Numerous groups told us thier guides had fallen on on our way up. No problems for us though, besides the wind. It shredded my Mountain Hardwear tent while we made our summit run.
ITRAD - Dec 2, 2003 9:34 pm
Route Climbed: Summited the Standard via Meany Crest, Frying pan, Whitman, Ingraham, and Emmons Galcier's Date Climbed: 08,1997I had beautiful weather and great day's to take a long and winding route up Rainer
jeffgun - Nov 15, 2003 2:12 pm
Route Climbed: Emmons/Winthrop Date Climbed: June 2001Having flown in and out of Seattle many times, I had this mountain on my list for a few years before I got up it. I met 3 other people over the years who were also interested in doing it, Steve, Pete and Chris. Steve had been up the E/W route before and was our leader from the training right through to the summit. We got to Camp Schurman without incident only to find a pretty good snow storm greeting us so we melted ice and settled in to our tents, thinking that we might have to use one of our cushion days to wait the storm out. I woke up at 10PM and looked out to see clear skies, the Liberty Ridge in the moonlight and Seattle glowing through the clouds below us. We got going around 1AM and were breaking trail through 8 inches of new snow. When the alpenglow hit us and we looked back towards the sun, it brought tears to my eyes. I had never seen anthing so beautiful. We crossed the bergschrund without incident but were warned by the rangers passing us that the bridge would probably collapse by the time we re-crossed it coming down. I was surprised at how big the crater was on Columbia Crest. On our way down the rangers warning came true as 3 out of 4 in our group fell in to the crevasse with a 200 foot fall below us. Well, Pete was last on the rope tried to jump across the void. He failed and bounced off the wall of the crevasse. We got him out, got back down to high camp and then had the pleasure of watching all the other teams follow the route that we had put up earlier in the day. Definitely one of the most amazing days of my life. If you have not climbed this mountain, you should.
Nyle Walton - Nov 10, 2003 11:55 am
Route Climbed: Paradise side via Camp Muir Date Climbed: early July, 1954A couple of weeks before I was drafted into the army, my family went to Mount Rainier National Park. Here I confronted the most beautiful mountain I had seen since I climbed the Grand Teton in 1950. Rather than rock, Rainier presented me with my first experience using crampons on ice. I met the Whittaker twins, both who towered above my six feet. They were the official Rainier guides. They alternated conducting alpine amateurs like me to the 14,411 crest of the volcanic peak. I put out $40 and drew Lou as my climbing guide. Jim was to conduct the easier snow cave tour which my younger sister took. The next day Lou, I and three others hiked up to Camp Muir above ten thousand feet where we spent the night. Early the next day we were all roped together climbing around a huge crevasse and up along some cliffs to the edge of an ice fall. Slowly Lou led us up a snowy ravine that led to a long icy slope and to the rim of the crater. By then the wind had picked up and on a level spot we all agreed to stop a couple of hundred feet short of the actual summit well off to left of us. I remember that the highest point was called Columbia Crest or Point Columbia. The weather was clear and we could see every peak in the Cascade Range including Mount Saint Helens whose classic white cone was then fifteen hundred feet higher than it is now.
Nine years later I rejoiced when I read that Lou's brother, Jim, became the first American to climb Mount Everest. In 1975, Lou appeared in Gainesville, Florida, on a book tour. I invited him home for lunch and showed him the slides I took of him wrapped snugly in his white parka hood on Rainier. He was then preparing an expedition to climb K2. I wished then I had the time and means to go with him. However I was 42-years-old and out of shape, too poor and too lazy after having climbed in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, attaining the summit of Vallunaraju and getting high on Huascaran four years before.
Scott Pierce - Nov 3, 2003 8:42 pm
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 1997The final slog across the crater was a surprise.
climber21 - Oct 14, 2003 11:43 am
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: August 2003Great climb. The weather was surprisingly cooperative, except windy on the summit. My dad and i had a little window of time to run up to Washington to climb it for one last trip before i headed to college (which is where i am now), and it was worth it. I would say all in all it was probably the most beautiful climb i've done. Now i just can't wait to do it again. =-)
Spud - Oct 10, 2003 1:43 pm
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: September 12, 2003Second time to the summit and finally the weather cooperated. Clear blue sky above 10000 feet. The only drawback was a furious wind which tried valiantly to blow me off the crater rim. Not before I signed the register though!
iandoten - Oct 1, 2003 6:23 pm
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: June 15 2003Lots of people on this route
mickymac1 - Oct 1, 2003 1:32 pm
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: 7/98Participated in the Climb For Clean Air to raise $ for the American Lung Association
vertx - Sep 28, 2003 11:29 am
Route Climbed: Ingrham Direct Date Climbed: June 15, 2002If you are not going with a guide group stay off this route (DC later in year). It can get busy. If you want to do it, spend the night on the flats and get a jump on the guide groups. Its about 1 hour from camp Muir to the flats, and well worth it.
jasonconnell - Sep 24, 2003 9:57 pm
Route Climbed: Emmons Glacier Date Climbed: August 22-24 2003Lots of thin snow bridges, Bit of route finding involved.
Started late on the 22nd camped at 7,700' on the Inter Glacier.
Second day Moved up to camp Sherman.
Day three summited and came all the way out. (19 hours)
Routes hooked up with the DC aroung 13,500.
It was clear enough to see Seattle from the Summit
sixsigmafool - Sep 19, 2003 4:31 pm
Route Climbed: DC Route Date Climbed: August 31, 2003After two aborted attempts, we finally made it! Taking four days, and having great weather made it very enjoyable. Left Ingraham Flats at 2AM, stood on the true summit at 9:30. Mild wind except on the summit. Visibility limited only by the curve of the earth! Too bad that only 2 of the original 4 made it.
hartrc - Sep 5, 2003 3:54 am
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: August 18th 2003Breathtaking, me and my 2 fellow climbers (Steve and Rich) made the summit at around 8am after our climb up from camp at Ingram flats.Only our second glaciated peak but hopefully one of many more to come. A perfect day, amazing views and a day i'll never forget. I definately intend to return again someday.
Robert Hart,
Lancaster, England
rgmackie - Aug 9, 2003 6:59 pm
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: 11 September 2001Beautiful summit day. Returned to a different world on 9/12.