huskertriguy - Jun 2, 2019 2:36 am Date Climbed: May 11, 2019
Finished Business
Ingraham Direct route.
There was room in the hut at Camp Muir, so we opted for it instead of bivy bags and tents.
Not much more to add from other reports. I see Ingraham Direct was still used a couple weeks after we were there which surprised me. The ladders barely stretch across the crevasse crossings so it will not be much longer before parties will be diverted to Disappointment Cleaver.
Other than that I could not have asked for a better day to finally get up there.
Super bluebird day. Wasted too much time monkeying around with layers and traction, but had a ball.
travel_murse - Mar 21, 2019 11:11 am Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2018
DC
The day I fell in love with the big mountains and mountaineering
mzelasko - Jan 13, 2019 3:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2018
Rainier in July
Alpine Ascents climb with guide Devin Bishop as second part of 8-day alpine climbing course.
mountainmidget - Jan 3, 2019 11:35 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2016
Disappointment Cleaver
Started on Friday, 5-27-16 with the intentions of the Kautz Route, but couldn't get across the Nisqually-Wilson glacier due to socked in weather, super foggy, and lots of rock fall. We stayed the night at about 6500ft on the Glacier Vista trail to see if the morning provided us a better chance. Bad weather caused us to turn tail and head up the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Got up to Camp Muir on Saturday, 5-28-16 and weather kept us there until Monday, 5-30-16. We had a bluebird day and summited on Monday, 5-30-16. My lack of hydration caused a longer descent and we ended up camping one more night at Camp Muir, then down to Paradise on Tuesday, 5-31-16. Would certainly love to return someday to do the Kautz Route, but would do the DC Route again in a heartbeat!
Matt McCullough - Nov 26, 2018 7:50 am Date Climbed: Feb 25, 2017
Denali Prep Course
Participated in Denali Prep course February 25 – March 4. Unable to summit due to weather. Perfectly gnarly conditions for excellent Denali training. Experienced 70 mph winds and minus-20-50 (C) temps and wind chill.
Youliana - Oct 29, 2018 12:25 am Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2016
Rainier Emmons
Superb ski trip. Awesome weather and conditions.
dielotr - Aug 15, 2018 4:41 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2018
DC Route with AAI
Summited via the Ingraham Glacier/Disappointment Cleaver route with Alpine Ascents International. Fantastic group of guides: Jangbu, Connor, Don, and Kristie. Perfect weather. No wind even at the summit, no precip, no clouds, freezing level above the summit, very hot descent. Wildfire haze obstructed most of the views.
Can't wait to return and try a more technical route like Emmons
Was with my buddy John, another guide in training. Summited in great style on the DC. Participated in a rescue with IMG. Fantastic learning experience. Definitely had a lot more of the glacier things I've been craving.
recast - Apr 12, 2018 8:32 pm Date Climbed: May 21, 2016
Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route
Very cold with gusting snow storm at the summit. Harrowing descent.
Wheelbarrow - Feb 5, 2018 9:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2017
2 years of high, high anticipation was well worth it. Magical mtn.
Easiest day of mah life. Just kidding but after climbing 50-some mountains in the prior 2 months I started from the Paradise parking lot at 6am with running shoes on feet and was back in 12 hours. Perfect conditions for my first glaciated peak.
jrlang45 - Nov 7, 2017 3:11 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2017
Second Time is a Charm
Went with AA up the DC route both times. Tried in June 2016 but was blown off of Ingraham by a nasty storm. This time we had perfect weather and good conditions, although the crevasses were causing problems once the sun hit them. Had to take a different route back to the cleaver which swung us well to the Emmons side and below the DC, so much so that the guides half-jokingly said we should just head to Schurman instead of going back to Paradise. Great time.
cweight - Oct 4, 2017 11:12 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2017
Hallow Unstable Ice
The warm temperatures of the year really broke up the glacier. We observed multiple rock falls off Gibralter rock and heard ice cracking. Turned around at 12,500 above the DC because of unsafe conditions, high winds and all the guided groups turned around, but we were treated to an unbelievable sunrise among the huge penitentes.
Jake Robinson - Aug 13, 2017 12:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2017
DC in a day
17 hours car to car via the DC route. With Fletcher, Damon, and Reed.
pschlais - Aug 3, 2017 9:55 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2017
DC route
Standard DC route. Tougher than expected with the route having a 400' descending traverse after the cleaver and traversing all the way around the mountain to merge with the Emmons route. Beautiful clear day & night.
Harvest - Aug 2, 2017 3:50 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2017
The Challenge of Rainier
- Conditioning hike to Camp Muir on 10/23/16. White out. Party of four.
- Attempt of Gibraltar Ledges on 1/28/17. We turned around at 12,100 past the last Gibraltar crux due to stormy weather. Party of four to 10,000 and two to 12,100. This is the FA route of Mount Rainier by Hazard Stevens and Philemon Beecher Van Trump in 1870.
- Attempt of Ingraham Direct on 4/22/17. We turned around due to a white out at 10,000 elevation.
- Car to car attempt of Fuhrer Finger Route on 5/31/17. We completed the Fuhrer Finger Couloir Route but did not summit due to a team member being out of shape, overweight and refusing to continue. We turned around at 13,933. Team of three.
- Ascent of Emmons-Winthrop Route on 6/29/17. My first successful ascent of Rainier. Party of three.
- Ascent of Emmons-Winthrop Route on 8/1/17. Party of three. #2
Yulia Zi - Jul 28, 2017 4:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2017
Summit via Emmons All Women
A challenging but beautiful summit via Emmons from Camp Schurman. Alpine start at 1am with the total 6hr15min moving time.
Many thanks to RMI Expeditions for organizing All Women Emmons Expedition Training Seminar. Three out of 8 women stood on the top of Mt.Rainier that day
The way down was slushy and we had to move fast through the corridor of ice fall.
Weather was perfect, with only 15-20 m/hr winds on the summit
BooRadley - Jul 21, 2017 1:12 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2017
DC Route - amazing conditions
Amazing conditions on the DC Route! After having to turn around at Camp Muir a week before due to high winds and avalanche risk on the upper mountain, we made a second attempt a week later. This time we were met with perfect conditions and a well-maintained route all the way to the summit. Super hot on the descent across the Muir Snowfield.
David Mortensen - Jul 15, 2017 11:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2017
Rainier
I did this climb with RMI. They were great. It was really amazing. For me,seeing the glaciers and crevasses up close was a highlight. It was tough as well. Ascending 9k is no easy task. There were really strong winds on the summit. We went all the way to the Columbia Crest. It was difficult, but it was a great experience. Rainier is such an amazing mountain.
lilmantis - Jul 11, 2017 1:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2013
OUTSTANDING MOUNTAIN
Summited with new friends back in June of 13. Cannot wait to go again on another route other than the Cleaver.
huskertriguy - Jun 2, 2019 2:36 am Date Climbed: May 11, 2019
Finished BusinessIngraham Direct route.
There was room in the hut at Camp Muir, so we opted for it instead of bivy bags and tents.
Not much more to add from other reports. I see Ingraham Direct was still used a couple weeks after we were there which surprised me. The ladders barely stretch across the crevasse crossings so it will not be much longer before parties will be diverted to Disappointment Cleaver.
Other than that I could not have asked for a better day to finally get up there.
gregdwhite@hotmail.com - May 1, 2019 11:26 am Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2019
MuirSuper bluebird day. Wasted too much time monkeying around with layers and traction, but had a ball.
travel_murse - Mar 21, 2019 11:11 am Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2018
DCThe day I fell in love with the big mountains and mountaineering
mzelasko - Jan 13, 2019 3:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2018
Rainier in JulyAlpine Ascents climb with guide Devin Bishop as second part of 8-day alpine climbing course.
mountainmidget - Jan 3, 2019 11:35 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2016
Disappointment CleaverStarted on Friday, 5-27-16 with the intentions of the Kautz Route, but couldn't get across the Nisqually-Wilson glacier due to socked in weather, super foggy, and lots of rock fall. We stayed the night at about 6500ft on the Glacier Vista trail to see if the morning provided us a better chance. Bad weather caused us to turn tail and head up the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Got up to Camp Muir on Saturday, 5-28-16 and weather kept us there until Monday, 5-30-16. We had a bluebird day and summited on Monday, 5-30-16. My lack of hydration caused a longer descent and we ended up camping one more night at Camp Muir, then down to Paradise on Tuesday, 5-31-16. Would certainly love to return someday to do the Kautz Route, but would do the DC Route again in a heartbeat!
Matt McCullough - Nov 26, 2018 7:50 am Date Climbed: Feb 25, 2017
Denali Prep CourseParticipated in Denali Prep course February 25 – March 4. Unable to summit due to weather. Perfectly gnarly conditions for excellent Denali training. Experienced 70 mph winds and minus-20-50 (C) temps and wind chill.
Youliana - Oct 29, 2018 12:25 am Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2016
Rainier EmmonsSuperb ski trip. Awesome weather and conditions.
dielotr - Aug 15, 2018 4:41 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2018
DC Route with AAISummited via the Ingraham Glacier/Disappointment Cleaver route with Alpine Ascents International. Fantastic group of guides: Jangbu, Connor, Don, and Kristie. Perfect weather. No wind even at the summit, no precip, no clouds, freezing level above the summit, very hot descent. Wildfire haze obstructed most of the views.
Can't wait to return and try a more technical route like Emmons
baloodh2000 - Jul 31, 2018 1:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2018
Training ClimbWas with my buddy John, another guide in training. Summited in great style on the DC. Participated in a rescue with IMG. Fantastic learning experience. Definitely had a lot more of the glacier things I've been craving.
recast - Apr 12, 2018 8:32 pm Date Climbed: May 21, 2016
Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver RouteVery cold with gusting snow storm at the summit. Harrowing descent.
Wheelbarrow - Feb 5, 2018 9:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2017
2 years of high, high anticipation was well worth it. Magical mtn.Easiest day of mah life. Just kidding but after climbing 50-some mountains in the prior 2 months I started from the Paradise parking lot at 6am with running shoes on feet and was back in 12 hours. Perfect conditions for my first glaciated peak.
jrlang45 - Nov 7, 2017 3:11 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2017
Second Time is a CharmWent with AA up the DC route both times. Tried in June 2016 but was blown off of Ingraham by a nasty storm. This time we had perfect weather and good conditions, although the crevasses were causing problems once the sun hit them. Had to take a different route back to the cleaver which swung us well to the Emmons side and below the DC, so much so that the guides half-jokingly said we should just head to Schurman instead of going back to Paradise. Great time.
cweight - Oct 4, 2017 11:12 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2017
Hallow Unstable IceThe warm temperatures of the year really broke up the glacier. We observed multiple rock falls off Gibralter rock and heard ice cracking. Turned around at 12,500 above the DC because of unsafe conditions, high winds and all the guided groups turned around, but we were treated to an unbelievable sunrise among the huge penitentes.
Jake Robinson - Aug 13, 2017 12:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2017
DC in a day17 hours car to car via the DC route. With Fletcher, Damon, and Reed.
pschlais - Aug 3, 2017 9:55 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2017
DC routeStandard DC route. Tougher than expected with the route having a 400' descending traverse after the cleaver and traversing all the way around the mountain to merge with the Emmons route. Beautiful clear day & night.
Harvest - Aug 2, 2017 3:50 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2017
The Challenge of Rainier- Conditioning hike to Camp Muir on 10/23/16. White out. Party of four.
- Attempt of Gibraltar Ledges on 1/28/17. We turned around at 12,100 past the last Gibraltar crux due to stormy weather. Party of four to 10,000 and two to 12,100. This is the FA route of Mount Rainier by Hazard Stevens and Philemon Beecher Van Trump in 1870.
- Attempt of Ingraham Direct on 4/22/17. We turned around due to a white out at 10,000 elevation.
- Car to car attempt of Fuhrer Finger Route on 5/31/17. We completed the Fuhrer Finger Couloir Route but did not summit due to a team member being out of shape, overweight and refusing to continue. We turned around at 13,933. Team of three.
- Ascent of Emmons-Winthrop Route on 6/29/17. My first successful ascent of Rainier. Party of three.
- Ascent of Emmons-Winthrop Route on 8/1/17. Party of three. #2
Yulia Zi - Jul 28, 2017 4:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2017
Summit via Emmons All WomenA challenging but beautiful summit via Emmons from Camp Schurman. Alpine start at 1am with the total 6hr15min moving time.
Many thanks to RMI Expeditions for organizing All Women Emmons Expedition Training Seminar. Three out of 8 women stood on the top of Mt.Rainier that day
The way down was slushy and we had to move fast through the corridor of ice fall.
Weather was perfect, with only 15-20 m/hr winds on the summit
BooRadley - Jul 21, 2017 1:12 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2017
DC Route - amazing conditionsAmazing conditions on the DC Route! After having to turn around at Camp Muir a week before due to high winds and avalanche risk on the upper mountain, we made a second attempt a week later. This time we were met with perfect conditions and a well-maintained route all the way to the summit. Super hot on the descent across the Muir Snowfield.
David Mortensen - Jul 15, 2017 11:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2017
RainierI did this climb with RMI. They were great. It was really amazing. For me,seeing the glaciers and crevasses up close was a highlight. It was tough as well. Ascending 9k is no easy task. There were really strong winds on the summit. We went all the way to the Columbia Crest. It was difficult, but it was a great experience. Rainier is such an amazing mountain.
lilmantis - Jul 11, 2017 1:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2013
OUTSTANDING MOUNTAINSummited with new friends back in June of 13. Cannot wait to go again on another route other than the Cleaver.