Left the parking lot late afternoon to get to Glacier Basin for a great nights sleep. Super warm, so we got a pre dawn start up the Inter glacier. Got to the bottle neck just past camp curtis upon the descent of the prow. Helped a large group of climbers from Michigan that were terrified of the rotten rock along the prow. Made it to Schurman for some lunch and a restful afternoon in the hot sun. Got up at 11pm to high winds and a start up the Emmons by Midnight. The track was pretty choppy as there has not been any new snow for some time. The trail is fairly straight forward this year and most of it can be seen from below. Stay right and go around the bergschrund. It will take you to the saddle between Columbia Crest and the Russel Cliffs. Summited by 6:30 with 50+MPH winds and sub freezing temps. Back down to Schurman by 10am. Loaded up and went back to the cars. 15,000 feet elevation change in one day is alot, especially on 2 hours sleep. What a beautiful mountain.
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 30, 2005
Great climb with my buddy Ol' Walsher. RMI led us to the top and I can't say enough about their performance on the mountain. The view from the top was incredible - from Mt. Baker to Mt. Jefferson, with the skyscrapers of Seattle clearly visible next to Puget Sound. An amazing mountain!
Great climb with RMI, 51 degrees F at 12:15 a.m. at Muir to start out, zero wind on summit, and really hot on descent, as we cut new switchbacks down the cleaver.
1st Rainier summit on my birthday. Blue sky and no wind. While warm, route was in reasonable condition. Mostly still snow on the Cleaver. Lots of route wander up high to skirt the slots. Start climb just after midnight. Muir to summit in about 6 hours. Back to Paradise parking lot at 2PM.
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 24 2005
We started Friday afternoon and reached the summit from Ingraham Flat 6:30 AM on Sunday. We were unusually lucky as far as weather goes. Only one white-out on the way to Muir and mild wind all day Sunday. We missed a giant avalanche on the cowlitz glacier by about a half hour. It looked like it came down from Cadaver Gap. One rock was the size of a large house. Eleven of our party of thirteen summited.
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 24, 2005
Three of us left at about midnight, so we ended up dealing with the RMI people all the way up. The weather was perfect this weekend and made this climb very enjoyable. We hit the summit at about 7AM, as we were taking it pretty easy. We headed back to camp for a nap and some food. The hike out treated us with visits from a marmot and quite a few friendly deer. The flowers were amazing. Looking forward to next year, maybe we'll try the Ingraham Direct.
Route Climbed: Emmons Glacier Date Climbed: July 17th, 2005
After an unnsuccesful summit attempt the day before (high winds at 12.5K), we left Emmons Flats among some 10-20 other teams at 1:30AM.
Despite frequent traffic jams, we made good progress and reached the summit near 7:30AM. The most interesting obstacle of the route was the bergschrund near 13.5K.
I suspect that the kick-step ladder-bridge would be gone within the next day or two, which would make for a long traverse over the
I departed from Paradise at 8am. After reaching Camp Muir, I was thinking of turning around with the high winds and storm clouds moving in. I decided to go, until it was to dangerous to climb. Towards the last 1/2 mile was the slowest, storm clouds rushing by so fast. The only way I was able to stay on my feet, is having my ice axe stuck deep in the snow, and attach to my harness. The last 100 yards was worst, I had crawl up to the summit ridge. Well, it took a long 7 hours to the summit, and 3 hours down. This is my third summit on this route.
Rob O. and I packed our skis all the way to the summit, but the snow never softened up enough and we downclimbed all the way back to the Corridor before we could ski. And the skiing was terrible! death crust over slush. We saw the helicopters flying by - unknown to us at the time a rescue was taking place on the south side.
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 21, 2005
Our 5 man rope team (all but 1 had never done any mountianeering) made summit in 5 hours. As the first team up that day we had the pleasure of breaking trail and even had to re-route up a 15 foot near vertical face due to a crevasse. What a great day!!!
climber514 - Aug 7, 2005 8:09 pm
Route Climbed: D.C. Date Climbed: August 3, 2005GREAT conditions... snowbridges are thinning, but still do-able.
Check out the report and photos at:
http://www.tylersnook.com/rainier/index.html
cottersnow - Aug 4, 2005 6:17 pm
Route Climbed: DC trail Date Climbed: 7-23-0517 hr. round trip. Really nice boot pack allowed us to move fast. Cool ice formations.
Ol Walsher - Aug 3, 2005 10:00 pm
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 30, 2005My best climb yet with my Ol' Buddy Chad. 3rd generation Walsher to climb the mountain. Words can't describe the mountain.
MarieP - Aug 3, 2005 1:12 am
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: August 2004High winds above 10,000 ft. Great camping at the Flats, around 11,500, makes for the easier summit day.
Pawkala - Aug 1, 2005 2:57 pm
Route Climbed: Emmons Date Climbed: July 29, 2005Left the parking lot late afternoon to get to Glacier Basin for a great nights sleep. Super warm, so we got a pre dawn start up the Inter glacier. Got to the bottle neck just past camp curtis upon the descent of the prow. Helped a large group of climbers from Michigan that were terrified of the rotten rock along the prow. Made it to Schurman for some lunch and a restful afternoon in the hot sun. Got up at 11pm to high winds and a start up the Emmons by Midnight. The track was pretty choppy as there has not been any new snow for some time. The trail is fairly straight forward this year and most of it can be seen from below. Stay right and go around the bergschrund. It will take you to the saddle between Columbia Crest and the Russel Cliffs. Summited by 6:30 with 50+MPH winds and sub freezing temps. Back down to Schurman by 10am. Loaded up and went back to the cars. 15,000 feet elevation change in one day is alot, especially on 2 hours sleep. What a beautiful mountain.
cbuelow - Jul 31, 2005 11:22 pm
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 30, 2005Great climb with my buddy Ol' Walsher. RMI led us to the top and I can't say enough about their performance on the mountain. The view from the top was incredible - from Mt. Baker to Mt. Jefferson, with the skyscrapers of Seattle clearly visible next to Puget Sound. An amazing mountain!
easleygone - Jul 31, 2005 10:06 am
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July 1991Made it to 12500' before we were stormed back. A plane load of rodeo cowboys hit the mountain during that storm.
pdeangeli - Jul 31, 2005 12:16 am
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July 28, 2005Great climb with RMI, 51 degrees F at 12:15 a.m. at Muir to start out, zero wind on summit, and really hot on descent, as we cut new switchbacks down the cleaver.
cluck - Jul 29, 2005 2:57 pm
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July 28 20051st Rainier summit on my birthday. Blue sky and no wind. While warm, route was in reasonable condition. Mostly still snow on the Cleaver. Lots of route wander up high to skirt the slots. Start climb just after midnight. Muir to summit in about 6 hours. Back to Paradise parking lot at 2PM.
Clintoris - Jul 26, 2005 3:22 pm
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 15My third time climbing and my second summit. I'll be back up on top again in a week or so.
gimpilator - Jul 26, 2005 12:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2005
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 24 2005We started Friday afternoon and reached the summit from Ingraham Flat 6:30 AM on Sunday. We were unusually lucky as far as weather goes. Only one white-out on the way to Muir and mild wind all day Sunday. We missed a giant avalanche on the cowlitz glacier by about a half hour. It looked like it came down from Cadaver Gap. One rock was the size of a large house. Eleven of our party of thirteen summited.
jtostenr - Jul 25, 2005 6:39 pm
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 24, 2005Three of us left at about midnight, so we ended up dealing with the RMI people all the way up. The weather was perfect this weekend and made this climb very enjoyable. We hit the summit at about 7AM, as we were taking it pretty easy. We headed back to camp for a nap and some food. The hike out treated us with visits from a marmot and quite a few friendly deer. The flowers were amazing. Looking forward to next year, maybe we'll try the Ingraham Direct.
SITKAVET - Jul 22, 2005 8:35 pm
Route Climbed: DISSAPOINTMENT CLEAVER Date Climbed: JULY 18TH 19THTHE THREE HUNT BROTHERS JEFF,TOM,AND DAVID SUMMITED WITH RMI LEAD GUIDE BRENT OKITA, HIS 300TH SUMMIT.
fat_squirrel - Jul 19, 2005 11:12 am
Route Climbed: Emmons Glacier Date Climbed: July 17th, 2005After an unnsuccesful summit attempt the day before (high winds at 12.5K), we left Emmons Flats among some 10-20 other teams at 1:30AM.
Despite frequent traffic jams, we made good progress and reached the summit near 7:30AM. The most interesting obstacle of the route was the bergschrund near 13.5K.
I suspect that the kick-step ladder-bridge would be gone within the next day or two, which would make for a long traverse over the
saddle to the north from the established route.
It was quite windy near the summit, so we opted to stay on snow (rime ice) and head southwest directly into the crater rather than for the
summit hill.
Just over the crest, large sections of warm, steaming soil were exposed and there was not wind, making for a great place to make some miso soup!
We walked over to the summit, met some friends who ascended the DC route,
took some pics, walked over to the summit register, packed up and headed down shortly after 10:00AM.
Overall, a great climb and a great mountain. Would do it again any time!
Guilty - Jul 16, 2005 11:18 pm
Solo 1 day from paradiseI departed from Paradise at 8am. After reaching Camp Muir, I was thinking of turning around with the high winds and storm clouds moving in. I decided to go, until it was to dangerous to climb. Towards the last 1/2 mile was the slowest, storm clouds rushing by so fast. The only way I was able to stay on my feet, is having my ice axe stuck deep in the snow, and attach to my harness. The last 100 yards was worst, I had crawl up to the summit ridge. Well, it took a long 7 hours to the summit, and 3 hours down. This is my third summit on this route.
captainstokes - Jul 15, 2005 2:08 pm
Route Climbed: Emmons Date Climbed: July 7, 2005Rob O. and I packed our skis all the way to the summit, but the snow never softened up enough and we downclimbed all the way back to the Corridor before we could ski. And the skiing was terrible! death crust over slush. We saw the helicopters flying by - unknown to us at the time a rescue was taking place on the south side.
althegreek - Jul 12, 2005 6:33 pm
Route Climbed: emmons(2003), disappointment(2002) Date Climbed: july 4 2003, august 2002nice weather and great views both times. emmons was more of a slog though less crowded than dissapointment.
Goose - Jun 23, 2005 4:21 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 21, 2005Our 5 man rope team (all but 1 had never done any mountianeering) made summit in 5 hours. As the first team up that day we had the pleasure of breaking trail and even had to re-route up a 15 foot near vertical face due to a crevasse. What a great day!!!
mtnsavy - Jun 21, 2005 1:55 am
Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 1998Afternoon sun sent several large ice avalanches through Camp Hazard.
rblevins42 - Jun 20, 2005 10:54 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 15th, 2005Fantastic Climb - Clear weather, extremely cold on the summit. We summitted in our down parkas.