Mount Rainier Climber's Log

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Old Ickabod

Old Ickabod - Jun 12, 2005 6:40 pm

Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: 6/6/05  Sucess!

Spectacular feeling to reach the summit! As I led through the Ingraham Icefall, a snowbridge I was crossing collapsed and I plunged 30 feet before being arrested by my two team members (dragging one of them 10 feet toward the crevasse). I sustained no physical injuries, but I was rocked emotionally. They hauled me up with spectacular leadership from the RMI Guides that came up behind us. My nerves were shot, but my commitment to the team was strong. We continued cautiously with Kevin Wright leading and we summited after 9 hours. We retraced our steps from 13,000 to Camp Muir in a whiteout. 13 hours roundtrip with two spectacular teammates. It was a true life changing experience, but I learned a lot on the trip. Rainier is now a huge part of my life. Special thanks to Kenny Hays who self arrested the moment he saw me disappear into the crevasse and to Kevin Wright for setting the anchor and assisting in the rescue just as quick!


K_G_Wright - Jun 10, 2005 2:06 pm

Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 4 - 7, 2005  Sucess!

We successfully summitted; however, we had a couple near disasters including one crevasse rescue. Please see the trip report for details, and if you're considering this route this year, be hyper-vigilant and always ready for a crevasse rescue!


tmmpeterson - Jun 9, 2005 10:52 pm

Route Climbed: Disappoinment Cleaver Date Climbed: 7/24/04  Sucess!

Summited on a very busy day. Difficult to attend to bodily functions on summit, as stage fright overcame me. Some nuts camping in crater, selling soft drinks and programs.


sufferjoy - Jun 7, 2005 10:28 am

Route Climbed: Ingraham direct Date Climbed: May 28, 2005  Sucess!

Excellent weather: sun, almost no wind, warm, great visibility.


May 26: ascent from Paradise to Camp Muir (~6-7 hrs)

May 27: rest, play around

May 28: ascent to the top (~13 hrs round-trip; ~9 hrs up, and ~4 hrs down; started ascent at 2am, summited by 11 am)

May 29: rest, play, descent to Paradise

Team: Dmitry Eremin, Lev Gorenshtein, Anton Karnoup, Polina Savchenko, Serguei Pachtchenko, Vitaly Autin, Sergey Mikhailov.


kolbi2112 - Jun 6, 2005 3:59 pm

Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: May 30-31, 2005

Began at 1am from Muir under perfect conditions. Light snow at 3am turned to full blown blizzard conditions at about 5am (13,200') so we had to turn back. ID route was in great shape but is expected to fall apart in the next couple of weeks.


mt_daydream - May 31, 2005 5:53 pm

Route Climbed: Gibraltar ledges Date Climbed: May 26-27, 2005

Andreas (from Switzerland) and I climbed the Gibraltar ledges on Friday.

Had the mountain all to overselves with just one other team

going up the ID route. We got lost below the Gib rock on the way

up and wasted more than 1.5 hrs traversing some 55 degree snow

and ice (and traversing all that hard parts back:). Got back on route

and finished the technical part under perfect conditions. Andreas was

feeling tired and hence we decided to turn back once we could

access the gentle upper slopes. The ID route was way on the right

side and there were a lot of crevasses in between. So we decided to

go up all the way to the crater. At around 13,500 ft, we saw the wands

on the ID route to our right, and traversed the glacier towards

them. Headed down after a brief rest.

ID was in great shape. I got fried by the sun (and altitude) on the

way down and was quite happy to get to Camp Muir.

Overall, a fun route under great conditions!


mountaineer17 - May 23, 2005 8:15 pm

Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: June 19, 2004  Sucess!

other than having to dig into 45 degree slope to camp before the summit, it's pretty similar to Disappointment Cleaver route (except a bit more technical and a few more Ice Falls to cross under.


edlins - May 16, 2005 5:51 pm

Route Climbed: Liberty Ridge Date Climbed: May 11-14  Sucess!

summited Liberty Cap in a whiteout Friday May 13, 2005. trip report


soslaw - Apr 18, 2005 1:36 pm

Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 25, 2001  Sucess!

Climbed with Andre. Day one to Muir in a whiteout with summit in question. Summit day alpine start under crystal clear skies. Cold, clear and windy on summit.


danman3156 - Apr 18, 2005 12:43 pm

Route Climbed: kautz glacier Date Climbed: august 8 2004  Sucess!

First real big mountain, i had a great time. Even made the summit. Encountered bad weather on summit day but we pushed on.


Clintoris - Apr 11, 2005 11:32 pm

Route Climbed: Gibraltar Ledges Date Climbed: 4/24-4/25  Sucess!

My first summit, my first attempt. Was hoping to get a winter summit, but due to fowl weather missed it by three days.

Even so we were alone on the summit and had an amazing time.

Looking to climb it again this summer.


vertx - Apr 8, 2005 5:23 pm

Route Climbed: Ingraham Glacier Direct Date Climbed: March 2005  Sucess!

The initial plan was for Gibralter Ledges. After spending 2 nights at camp Muir waiting out the weather, we decided to do Ingraham Glacier Direct. Thanks to a short break in the weather we were off to the summit on the third day. The route was very challenging and heavily crevassed, way more difficult than the last time I was on it. Although I wanted a different route under my belt and was disappointed to not be able to do the Ledges, the trip was enjoyable and successful. Just something to look forward to in the future.


patascent - Apr 6, 2005 3:46 pm

Route Climbed: Ingraham Glacier Direct Date Climbed: March 10,2005  Sucess!

Great climb with RMI.

Aaron Dyer

Aaron Dyer - Mar 23, 2005 11:13 pm

Route Climbed: Emmons Direct Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!

This was an interesting first mountaineering experiance

Dan Winter

Dan Winter - Mar 20, 2005 10:09 pm

Route Climbed: D.C. Date Climbed: 7/29/04-7/30/04  Sucess!

Ascending from Muir the moon was a eerie tint of red due to forrest fires in eastern Washington. Cheeseburgers at Copper Creek Inn on the way home never tasted so good.

clleis - Mar 4, 2005 1:13 pm

Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: August 2003

My first climbing experience, guided by RMI. We turned around at the top of the icefall due to a tired group member. Rainier had a major impact on me, has been on my mind ever since. Recently moved from Ohio to Portland so that the mountains can be a regular part of my life, not a once a year climbing trip.


cjmorello - Feb 20, 2005 10:11 am

Route Climbed: emmond-winthrop Date Climbed: JULY 05  Sucess!

Done with party of 3.


cjmorello - Feb 20, 2005 10:06 am

Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: FEB 04  Sucess!

Done with RMI winter seminar.


ahaass - Feb 19, 2005 9:39 pm

Route Climbed: Standard guided route Date Climbed: August 18, 2004  Sucess!

Guided by Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. Great weather!


Carbo - Feb 15, 2005 12:08 am

Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: August 31, 2003  Sucess!

We submitted at sunrise after starlit climb. The weather was calm after a pretty gusty first day on the mountain. Awesome views.

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