Awesome weather - clear skies 80-mile visibility. Start from Paradise, camp at Ingraham Flats. Windy night with loud rockfall, 12:30 am departure for summit. Cleaver very sketchy due to melt, so Ingraham direct was route of choice of guide services, we followed them. Glacial ice/snow of dubious quality due to unseasonably warm weather. Large, scary, overhanging seracs, and two crevasse crossings on guide-service ladders. Campers above Cleaver had been buffeted by winds overnight. Haggered-looking climbers here. Ingraham Glacier berschrund traverse only major objective danger. 12-inch wide footledge, 90+ foot icewall, 60+ foot traverse, 500+ foot drop into serac field down 80-degree snow slope. Scary and unnerving, but exciting, too. Grueling, never-ending, 30-degree sloping switchbacks lead to summit, 10:00 am. No walk to Western crater rim to sign guestbook. Departed summit roughly 15 minutes after arrival. Long, very tedious, trek to high camp. Tent blown free of glacier and into crevasse (no extraction). On to Camp Muir and thence back to Paradise. Incredible work-out, absolute exhaustion and euphoria. An incredible adventure. Bring snow flukes for your tent!
First climbed with Noonan via the Kautz. Spent first night just above the turtle then 2nd at camp hazard. Traversed into chute then easy conditions - frozen suncups. Summited at dawn. Second ascent with Peter & Matt via Emmons. Both times cold and windy on top.
After camping at Glacier basin and then on Steamboat Prow, we turned around at 13400' due to getting pummeled by a quick forming lenticular cloud. With the winds picking up and visibility dropping drastically we aborted our attempt. Hindsight says we should have continued because it cleared about an hour or so later, but better caution on the safer side. After another night on Steamboat Prow we descended the next day out to the trailhead. Next time!
"Summitted Mt. Rainier with three friends, via the Emmons Glacier route, after spending two days holed up at Schurman Camp by high winds and periodic whiteouts. The weather on summit day was absolutely spectacular!!! Skies were clear and the winds were light to moderate. The route at that time was very straight forward, straight up the glacier to the bergshrund and then right to a snow bridge, then up to the summit crater. The route was amazingly un-crevassed, but these conditions will change as warmer weather melts the overlying snow pack. Early morning snow conditions were perfect for cramponing, however by late morning and early afternoon crampons were a definite drawback. The wet snow balled between the crampon teeth and increased the risk of falling. Our early morning acent up "the Corridor" was greeted by a erie, yet spectacular, waning red crecent moon rising in the east. It turned out to be a good omen as our group, and another group of two climbers, summitted and returned to camp safely. "
got to bergschrund at 13,850 feet on the uppermost part of the Kautz Route (the section on the upper Nisqually Glacier). Quite a trip - almost got hit by icefall on the descent gully to the Kautz Ice Chute; rappelled the chute in the dark with just one headlamp. Glad to be alive...
greetings to Greg if you're reading this :)
Fantastic climb and a great way to summit the mountain. Less congested and very straight forward.
I climbed it with a buddy of mine. We roped up with two climbers that we met from California. We had great weather and near perfect climbing conditions. Spectacular views. We were nervous as five climbers had died the previous two weeks. The Park Rangers were stressing caution, we had never done the route, and we went without RMI Guides. No problem.
It isn't very satisfying to write about a mountain we failed to summit but after all the deaths this year it doesn't bother me to admit we were overly cautious. The weather was great and there was no reason for us to not have summited. But because we got a late start from Muir (2:02 am) and sat in a traffic jam on Ingram Flats (for over an hour) there was no way we were going to make it up and back in a reasonable amount of time.
Words of advice:
Don't leave after the RMI guide groups;
Try to sleep more than 2 hours (six would have been nice);
Don't expect to be able to pass other rope teams on the glacier (if it is sketchy, people will be using running belays and moving very slowly over narrow snow bridges, so you have to wait your turn);
Boil your drinking water before, not after cooking beans and rice in your pot;
Safety first, using every piece of protection and all the running belays is slow but it beats falling off the mountain;
Use lots and lots of sunscreen;
Remember to save some energy for the decent. If you burn yourself out on a push to the summit and have nothing left, getting back through the Ingram Glacier and Cathedral Gap will not be fun or safe.
I will be back next year for another attempt and I will have learned a lot from this year's mistakes...
an epic...i'll have to write a trip report for this one. 3+ feet of snow, wind, 36 hours in a tent at high camp, incredible descent w/ near-death avalanche incident along the way, and more. The mountain really kicked our ass...
very nice trip, not many people. The route was in surprisingly good shape for this late in the season. Unusually cold weather for this time of year and some snowfall overnight - didnt cause any problems, but enough to make the mountain look white, pristine and very alpine in character. Camped up near the summit - the overnight temperature dropped to about -15 fahrenheit (MINUS fifteen, thats right) but there was no wind at all so it wasnt too bad.
Climbed Gib Ledges the day before, today had much better weather. Ingraham Direct was in great shape.
Gib Ledges was in good shape, but the weather deteriorated above 13,000 feet.
My first 14'er. Also where I realised that altitude sickness feels a lot like mono.
I managed to avoid contracting High Altitiude Espresso Edema on this, my second attempt to conquer the mountain
I even managed to avoid betting mashed or swallowed whole by my mutinous climbing partners who were crazed for starch and carbs!
Perseverance pays off - read all about my adventures by checking out Washington State in the Travel Archive of my website: www.spudstravels.com
This was my first real mountaineering experience. Attended RMI Expedition Seminar and spent five days on the mountain. Had perfect weather and an overall GREAT experience! Views of Adams, St. Helens, Hood, and Jefferson fueled the fire to return for more!
Our group did not stay at Camp Muir and instead made camps on the Muir Snowfield @ ~7,700' & 9,600' Camp Protectio ("Camp Condom"). Both are excellent sites if it is desired to avoid the crowds at Camp Muir.
A wonderful trip, I will definitely be making more attempts!
Climbed to the summit via the DC route on August 9, 1969. I have posted the whole story under trip reports as "5 days on the mountain" I'm now currently converting my slides via scanner to digital and the pics I have posted are easily seen by clicking on my name at the top of this entry. I know this is truly ancient history, but a climb to the summit of Rainier is for many of us, one of the most memorable events we can be involved in.
More pics to come as I get them scanned.
Tried it once by the Ingraham direct, making it to the summit crater, but no Columbia Crest. This was in December, the wind was screaming, knocking us all over. Of our party of four, 3 of us got light frostbite on faces, toes, or fingers. I just got over the flu, and was too weak to cross the summit crater. How pathetic.
Tried it twice by the old tried and true Camp Muir DC slog. First in early March, saw a massive avalanche sweep off the Wilson headwall, got spooked and turned around. Second time in August, nasty thunderstorms chased us back after crossing the Cathedral rocks.
Tried it twice by the Kautz Glacier, both times in June, the supposedly best time to attempt Rainier. Yeah, whatever, weather nailed us both times, never been above camp Hazard, though the route up the Kautz to Hazard is a lot more fun and direct.
Trying to work up the willpower to give a 6th attempt.
Great experiance and one of the best sunrises ever. Climbed with the Climb for Clean Air, raised money for the STate of Washingtons Lung Association.
Left the hut at midnight and was on top by 7am.. got very cold toward sunrise, reccomend a down jacket in your ruck sack to use when you make stops.
Oh, lost a water bottle in a cravasse, in a black OR waterbottle parka. If anyone finds it, will you please email me to return? Thanks!
This is a great mountain and cant wait to go back and try other routes... anyone intersted......?
Read my detailed, introspective trip report here: