Mount Rainier Climber's Log

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colin_c82 - Sep 15, 2002 7:26 pm

Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: July 27-30, 2002  Sucess!

Colin C., Krister S., Tom H. & Joe L. Summited on Tues under perfect conditions. Minimal wind and no precip. Freezing alt. was approx 14,000 ft. Icefall was epic bellow ice cliff.


jasonconnell - Sep 10, 2002 11:14 am

Route Climbed: DC Twice, Ingraham Direct, Emmons Twice (once direct once joining the DC route at 13,700) Date Climbed: June97 November97 June98 August98 August02  Sucess!

Summited for the 4th time August 17th 98 on my 25th birthday, summited again August 18th 2002 the day after my 29th. Had a great 3 day climb up the Emmons.

See link below for pictures and trip report.


scot'teryx - Aug 19, 2002 5:47 pm

Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: Sunday August 18, 2002  Sucess!

Arrived at Muir on Friday to a great day with blue skies. Rested on Saturday and waited for our 4th member to bring the rope. Left Sunday morning at 1230 and arrived at the summit at 7am. The cleaver was hell, and once above the cleaver it is just plain simple, no navigation and tons of switchbacks, probably because of the time of year and such, but it was still fun to share the summit with my wife alison. Got lost on the cleaver on the way down since there are so many wands marking various routes. Back at Muir at 12 noon and to the car at 345pm. Long summit day for sure.

Rich Park - Aug 8, 2002 2:46 am

Route Climbed: Emmons/Winthrop Date Climbed: july 29 2002

Reached Schurman Camp on the 28th and was greeted by blue skies and high winds. We planned on

making our summit bid that evening but decided against it due to the increasing high winds. Next year for sure!!!


scot'teryx - Aug 7, 2002 12:46 am

Route Climbed: Emmons/Winthrop Date Climbed: July 24, 2002  Sucess!

Left Emmons FLats at 11pm, due to the high freezing level of 14k feet. Was not my call, but I would have left at 1am or so. With a slower group, my rope team froze in the caboose, but it was okay. Made it to the top at 615am. Hung out on the summit for abit until the clouds moved and we headed down. I was sick with AMS from 13K up, and did not feel better till after we packed up on summit day and retreated down the Interglacier. Ran out of there as fast as I could, it is always longer on the way out.


rhlaird - Aug 3, 2002 10:31 am

Route Climbed: Emmons Date Climbed: August 3, 2000  Sucess!

Summitted via the Emmons with my dad, Steve Jobe, Chad Sageser and his girlfriend. This was a second attempt after being blown off the mountain by weather the previus June. August is definitely the time to climb weather wise. This late in the season, the route is pretty tracked up making route finding straightforward. Number of crevasses and fallen snow bridges made route circuitous. Took 8 hours from Schurman to summit.


Michele - Aug 1, 2002 11:54 pm

Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 11, 2002

An awesome mountain. Unusually warm weather and very high winds. I climbed with just one other person and would have had more confidence with a more experienced team. His summit feaver was making me a little leery. I will be climbing Rainier again late this season or early next, with the cooler temperatures and more snow.

David P.

David P. - Jul 31, 2002 8:17 am

Route Climbed: Emmons/DC Date Climbed: July 28, 2002  Sucess!

Our group of 3 left Emmons Flats (9800 ft) at 1:15 am and we reached the top of Columbia Crest at 7:30 am. In general, conditions were good, except for the intermittent blasts of intense wind and the warmish temps. We opted for traversing from the Emmons route towards the Disappointment Cleaver route which joined the DC route near 13,500 ft or so. The winds out of the west intensified throughout the day and turned around many parties. Between 11,000 and 12,500 ft, the whipping clouds soaked us and higher up we became thoroughly coated in ice. Glasses and goggles iced up so badly that they were worthless, even with frequent wipes. The winds on the crater rim were incredible, less so across the crater itself and negligible on the lee side of the rim. We reached our tent at 10:45 am after being blasted every few minutes or so by wind (up to 50-60? mph requiring us to stop and brace ourselves) and ice pellets, which filled in the track and quickly turned into slush. Each one of us punched through at least up to the ankle, inspite of our best intentions. In many places the boot track is not the safest or best line, particularly with the intense melting out of snow bridges and opening up of crevasses.

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Jul 25, 2002 9:52 am

Route Climbed: Fuhrer Finger Date Climbed: 24 & 25 May 1975

Climbed with David Coughlin & Bob Walsh.

kj1611av - Jul 22, 2002 10:55 pm

Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 13, 2002  Sucess!

Excellent Weather, a few weak snow bridges, nice views of Adams and Hood, like an oven coming down

MrSheridan - Jul 22, 2002 7:52 am

Route Climbed: DC / Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2000  Sucess!

Awesome weather - clear skies 80-mile visibility. Start from Paradise, camp at Ingraham Flats. Windy night with loud rockfall, 12:30 am departure for summit. Cleaver very sketchy due to melt, so Ingraham direct was route of choice of guide services, we followed them. Glacial ice/snow of dubious quality due to unseasonably warm weather. Large, scary, overhanging seracs, and two crevasse crossings on guide-service ladders. Campers above Cleaver had been buffeted by winds overnight. Haggered-looking climbers here. Ingraham Glacier berschrund traverse only major objective danger. 12-inch wide footledge, 90+ foot icewall, 60+ foot traverse, 500+ foot drop into serac field down 80-degree snow slope. Scary and unnerving, but exciting, too. Grueling, never-ending, 30-degree sloping switchbacks lead to summit, 10:00 am. No walk to Western crater rim to sign guestbook. Departed summit roughly 15 minutes after arrival. Long, very tedious, trek to high camp. Tent blown free of glacier and into crevasse (no extraction). On to Camp Muir and thence back to Paradise. Incredible work-out, absolute exhaustion and euphoria. An incredible adventure. Bring snow flukes for your tent!

BicRungee - Jul 10, 2002 4:18 pm

Route Climbed: Kautz & Emmons Date Climbed: July, 1997 & Aug, 1999  Sucess!

First climbed with Noonan via the Kautz. Spent first night just above the turtle then 2nd at camp hazard. Traversed into chute then easy conditions - frozen suncups. Summited at dawn. Second ascent with Peter & Matt via Emmons. Both times cold and windy on top.


Hammer - Jul 9, 2002 1:00 pm

Route Climbed: Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Date Climbed: June 22, 2002

After camping at Glacier basin and then on Steamboat Prow, we turned around at 13400' due to getting pummeled by a quick forming lenticular cloud. With the winds picking up and visibility dropping drastically we aborted our attempt. Hindsight says we should have continued because it cleared about an hour or so later, but better caution on the safer side. After another night on Steamboat Prow we descended the next day out to the trailhead. Next time!


khalama - Jul 8, 2002 1:37 pm

Route Climbed: Emmons Glacier Date Climbed: July 5,2002  Sucess!

"Summitted Mt. Rainier with three friends, via the Emmons Glacier route, after spending two days holed up at Schurman Camp by high winds and periodic whiteouts. The weather on summit day was absolutely spectacular!!! Skies were clear and the winds were light to moderate. The route at that time was very straight forward, straight up the glacier to the bergshrund and then right to a snow bridge, then up to the summit crater. The route was amazingly un-crevassed, but these conditions will change as warmer weather melts the overlying snow pack. Early morning snow conditions were perfect for cramponing, however by late morning and early afternoon crampons were a definite drawback. The wet snow balled between the crampon teeth and increased the risk of falling. Our early morning acent up "the Corridor" was greeted by a erie, yet spectacular, waning red crecent moon rising in the east. It turned out to be a good omen as our group, and another group of two climbers, summitted and returned to camp safely. "


AlexeyD - Jul 8, 2002 12:55 pm

Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: july 2-6

got to bergschrund at 13,850 feet on the uppermost part of the Kautz Route (the section on the upper Nisqually Glacier). Quite a trip - almost got hit by icefall on the descent gully to the Kautz Ice Chute; rappelled the chute in the dark with just one headlamp. Glad to be alive...

greetings to Greg if you're reading this :)


Zeke - Jul 8, 2002 6:53 am

Route Climbed: Emmons Direct Date Climbed: June 24, 2002  Sucess!

Fantastic climb and a great way to summit the mountain. Less congested and very straight forward.

Jerry L

Jerry L - Jun 30, 2002 5:10 am

Route Climbed: Disappoinment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 13, 2002  Sucess!

I climbed it with a buddy of mine. We roped up with two climbers that we met from California. We had great weather and near perfect climbing conditions. Spectacular views. We were nervous as five climbers had died the previous two weeks. The Park Rangers were stressing caution, we had never done the route, and we went without RMI Guides. No problem.

Noah (Oregon)

Noah (Oregon) - Jun 17, 2002 11:24 pm

Route Climbed: Ingram Direct from Camp Muir Date Climbed: June 15th, 2002

It isn't very satisfying to write about a mountain we failed to summit but after all the deaths this year it doesn't bother me to admit we were overly cautious. The weather was great and there was no reason for us to not have summited. But because we got a late start from Muir (2:02 am) and sat in a traffic jam on Ingram Flats (for over an hour) there was no way we were going to make it up and back in a reasonable amount of time.

Words of advice:

Don't leave after the RMI guide groups;

Try to sleep more than 2 hours (six would have been nice);

Don't expect to be able to pass other rope teams on the glacier (if it is sketchy, people will be using running belays and moving very slowly over narrow snow bridges, so you have to wait your turn);

Boil your drinking water before, not after cooking beans and rice in your pot;

Safety first, using every piece of protection and all the running belays is slow but it beats falling off the mountain;

Use lots and lots of sunscreen;

Remember to save some energy for the decent. If you burn yourself out on a push to the summit and have nothing left, getting back through the Ingram Glacier and Cathedral Gap will not be fun or safe.

I will be back next year for another attempt and I will have learned a lot from this year's mistakes...


AlexeyD - Jun 6, 2002 10:24 am

Route Climbed: Kautz Date Climbed: june 10 2001

an epic...i'll have to write a trip report for this one. 3+ feet of snow, wind, 36 hours in a tent at high camp, incredible descent w/ near-death avalanche incident along the way, and more. The mountain really kicked our ass...


AlexeyD - Jun 6, 2002 10:21 am

Route Climbed: ingraham glacier Date Climbed: labor day 2000  Sucess!

very nice trip, not many people. The route was in surprisingly good shape for this late in the season. Unusually cold weather for this time of year and some snowfall overnight - didnt cause any problems, but enough to make the mountain look white, pristine and very alpine in character. Camped up near the summit - the overnight temperature dropped to about -15 fahrenheit (MINUS fifteen, thats right) but there was no wind at all so it wasnt too bad.

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