David Naylor - Aug 30, 2010 2:15 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2010
SE Glacier-Maloy Chute.
3 day trip with overnight at the tarn near the base of Ritter & Banner. SE glacier route. From the 3 toed buttress took the chute from the farthest right, which I believe is the Maloy Variation. Came down Owens chute after the summit. Owen's an easier slope. Fantastic trip!
mhengst - Jul 29, 2010 8:45 am Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2010
ClydeVariation
Camped below the Clyde variation chute and climbed that route with some short variations to hit some steeper snow. Still plenty of snow and our biggest challenge was getting up and down before the thunderstorms hit.
Packed in to Ediza with the gf but she wasn't interested in the summit. 5:20 RT from Ediza the next morn. Beautiful area, wish it was closer. Summit views rival the best of the Sierra - Half Dome, Mono Lake, etc...
sespegorilla - Jun 29, 2010 10:13 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2007
Mt Ritter
North face from Ediza lake.
mrchad9 - Jun 13, 2010 1:55 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007
Labor Day Weekend
Nice weekend trip, camped by the stream above Lake Ediza and up the standard route. Glacier was a bit icy in the morning so took the first steep, very loose, chute to the north, came down the more enjoyable route to the top of the Glacier. Didn't see another group the whole climb.
lukenhampton - Jan 4, 2010 1:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
SE Glacier from Ediza
Climbed with 5 others from Lake Ediza. We had great weather and amazing views from the top.
thexcat - Oct 5, 2009 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2009
SE Glacier
Two weeks earlier, attempted and failed dayhike with Mark. Had a strong desire to return and summit this peak before the dry season ended.
Left postpile camp and started from Agnew Meadows TH at 4am with Raj. Light snow for first 2-3 hours wasn't reassuring, but cloud cover cleared a bit and the day remained very windy and dark clouds returned later. From Ediza Lake we scrambled up a bit too soon (before the more direct grassy ledges) but eventually made it to bottom of glacier. Threw on our crampons for 100-200 yard section and summited at 1pm. Not fast time, but happy to be on summit. Back at car at 9pm. Epic. Made it to Mountain View by 4am.
Last minute solo trip, and well worth it. Climbed up to the R/B col from Ediza and summitted via the classic Muir chute. Descended Owens chute off SE face. Great climb and probably one of the better views I've seen in the Sierra.
Four hours to the top from Lake Catherine, with Denny. Some snow/ice still on the west slope, covering the entrance to the ramp between lower and upper bowls, and partially obstructing the upper bowl. What is a class-2 route under ideal conditions, thus necessitated some simple class-3 moves this time. Back the same way. Went on to solo climb Mt. Davis, next door, later in the afternoon. Trip report.
Bill Kish - Aug 17, 2009 1:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2009
SE Glacier
A straightforward scramble and snow climb from Ediza with Kimberly. The glacier is mellow but the location is wild. Gorgeous summit views.
cjrandall - Aug 4, 2009 6:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2009
Clyde Variation sufferfest
Originally planned to be a three-day adventure, we headed home a day early after getting off the planned route and wandering into the Clyde Variation. We climbed up the southernmost gully through solid snow and left the gully late, and didn't want to descend, to struck off across the snow bowl high. Climbed up the snow chute between the Ritter pinnacles, and encountered bulletproof ice and loose snow. Thinking I could get across the loose snow to the Southeast Glacier, I attempted the traverse and fell about 50 feet to the rock face and loose crud below. Was fortunate not to be hurt by hitting the rocks with my feet in front of me. Sufficiently sketched out enough to gingerly descend the loose rock to the more solid snow below and loop around the pinnacle and out following existing climbers' boot prints in the snow. Next time, we'll avoid the Clyde Variation and stick to the normal route!
My first alpine mountaineering experience, with John, Marlene, and Michael, more than 30 years ago. Hooked me for life. John was my climbing mentor/guru...he could be a gruff teacher, but he knew his stuff. Died in a bicycle accident while still in his 20s. I still chat with him on top of every peak I climb. Happy Trails, buddy, wherever you may be.
snowflake - Mar 13, 2009 12:40 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1992
Solo North Face
Kinda a spur of the moment thing.
xharv - Aug 28, 2008 4:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2008
West Slope from Ritter Lake
Class-2 all the way from the Upper Ritter Lake, if the right route is followed. Check the route description. No snow/ice encountered anywhere on the west slope this August. Conditions and classification could be different after a heavy snow winter. By the way, about eighty parties signed up SPS summit register thus far in 2008.
David Naylor - Aug 30, 2010 2:15 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2010
SE Glacier-Maloy Chute.3 day trip with overnight at the tarn near the base of Ritter & Banner. SE glacier route. From the 3 toed buttress took the chute from the farthest right, which I believe is the Maloy Variation. Came down Owens chute after the summit. Owen's an easier slope. Fantastic trip!
mhengst - Jul 29, 2010 8:45 am Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2010
ClydeVariationCamped below the Clyde variation chute and climbed that route with some short variations to hit some steeper snow. Still plenty of snow and our biggest challenge was getting up and down before the thunderstorms hit.
Brought up a double bagged replacement register.
jonhersh - Jul 27, 2010 6:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2001
SE Glacier from EdizaFun scramble from Lake Ediza.
HeyItsBen - Jul 9, 2010 1:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2010
SE Glacier soloPacked in to Ediza with the gf but she wasn't interested in the summit. 5:20 RT from Ediza the next morn. Beautiful area, wish it was closer. Summit views rival the best of the Sierra - Half Dome, Mono Lake, etc...
sespegorilla - Jun 29, 2010 10:13 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2007
Mt RitterNorth face from Ediza lake.
mrchad9 - Jun 13, 2010 1:55 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007
Labor Day WeekendNice weekend trip, camped by the stream above Lake Ediza and up the standard route. Glacier was a bit icy in the morning so took the first steep, very loose, chute to the north, came down the more enjoyable route to the top of the Glacier. Didn't see another group the whole climb.
lukenhampton - Jan 4, 2010 1:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
SE Glacier from EdizaClimbed with 5 others from Lake Ediza. We had great weather and amazing views from the top.
Princess Buttercup - Nov 30, 2009 11:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008
North FaceFrom Banner, then descend the SE couloir
thexcat - Oct 5, 2009 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2009
SE GlacierTwo weeks earlier, attempted and failed dayhike with Mark. Had a strong desire to return and summit this peak before the dry season ended.
Left postpile camp and started from Agnew Meadows TH at 4am with Raj. Light snow for first 2-3 hours wasn't reassuring, but cloud cover cleared a bit and the day remained very windy and dark clouds returned later. From Ediza Lake we scrambled up a bit too soon (before the more direct grassy ledges) but eventually made it to bottom of glacier. Threw on our crampons for 100-200 yard section and summited at 1pm. Not fast time, but happy to be on summit. Back at car at 9pm. Epic. Made it to Mountain View by 4am.
Vertigo soul - Sep 20, 2009 5:07 pm Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2009
N Face directLast minute solo trip, and well worth it. Climbed up to the R/B col from Ediza and summitted via the classic Muir chute. Descended Owens chute off SE face. Great climb and probably one of the better views I've seen in the Sierra.
xharv - Sep 13, 2009 3:50 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2009
West Slope from Ritter Lakes (again)Four hours to the top from Lake Catherine, with Denny. Some snow/ice still on the west slope, covering the entrance to the ramp between lower and upper bowls, and partially obstructing the upper bowl. What is a class-2 route under ideal conditions, thus necessitated some simple class-3 moves this time. Back the same way. Went on to solo climb Mt. Davis, next door, later in the afternoon. Trip report.
Bill Kish - Aug 17, 2009 1:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2009
SE GlacierA straightforward scramble and snow climb from Ediza with Kimberly. The glacier is mellow but the location is wild. Gorgeous summit views.
cjrandall - Aug 4, 2009 6:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2009
Clyde Variation sufferfestOriginally planned to be a three-day adventure, we headed home a day early after getting off the planned route and wandering into the Clyde Variation. We climbed up the southernmost gully through solid snow and left the gully late, and didn't want to descend, to struck off across the snow bowl high. Climbed up the snow chute between the Ritter pinnacles, and encountered bulletproof ice and loose snow. Thinking I could get across the loose snow to the Southeast Glacier, I attempted the traverse and fell about 50 feet to the rock face and loose crud below. Was fortunate not to be hurt by hitting the rocks with my feet in front of me. Sufficiently sketched out enough to gingerly descend the loose rock to the more solid snow below and loop around the pinnacle and out following existing climbers' boot prints in the snow. Next time, we'll avoid the Clyde Variation and stick to the normal route!
TheRootster - Jun 21, 2009 2:34 pm
from Lake EdizaMy first alpine mountaineering experience, with John, Marlene, and Michael, more than 30 years ago. Hooked me for life. John was my climbing mentor/guru...he could be a gruff teacher, but he knew his stuff. Died in a bicycle accident while still in his 20s. I still chat with him on top of every peak I climb. Happy Trails, buddy, wherever you may be.
bruceg - Apr 24, 2009 8:24 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 1976
SE GlacierClimbed with Greg and Carl. 5 days into the JMT and we had climbed Lyell, Banner, and Ritter. Then 2 weeks of rain.
gjonbelay - Mar 23, 2009 7:10 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 1998
SE Glacier August 9 1998Climbed Ritter and Banner on the same weekend with the PCS.
Trip Report
snowflake - Mar 13, 2009 12:40 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1992
Solo North FaceKinda a spur of the moment thing.
xharv - Aug 28, 2008 4:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2008
West Slope from Ritter LakeClass-2 all the way from the Upper Ritter Lake, if the right route is followed. Check the route description. No snow/ice encountered anywhere on the west slope this August. Conditions and classification could be different after a heavy snow winter. By the way, about eighty parties signed up SPS summit register thus far in 2008.
kevin trieu - Aug 27, 2008 5:08 pm
SE GlacierLake Ediza is beautiful. This climb is where I first set my eyes on Pookie.
dpsiebert - Aug 23, 2008 4:37 am
North FaceClimbed with Sierra Challenge folks. Beautiful area.