Mount Rundle Traverse, III, 5.5

Further on descent of Peak VIII will deliver you to your first crux (photo) where you have three choices. Rappel from a makeshift hand line of some sort atop a precarious pedestal, down climb on loose rock to your right (north) or down climb on hard ice in a narrow chimney to your left that might cliff out at the end. Having no rope, my decision was quite easy, down climb to the right. I found the best rock I could and avoided the very loose corner itself. I down climbed on face moves just to the west of the loose corner and traversed back into it at the bottom. This is definitely mid 5th class down climbing to be sure. Then traverse along the precarious edge of the before mentioned pinnacle and break back onto the ridge proper.
Mount Rundle Traverse, III, 5.5, Mount Rundle, Banff National Park, July, 2009 (solo ascent, 13hrs)


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