Camped at UBSL night before. Slog up the scree chute was annoying, but is much faster coming down. The class 3 ridge was excellent. There is no pen in the registry can. Someone should bring a pen up if they plan to summit.
Climbed Russell the day after Whitney. The approach from Iceberg Lake was surprisingly quick and easy to follow. The route up the main chute was also more solid than the scree slog I was expecting. The rock on the ramp up was bomber with a couple of class 4 moves just below a rappel station. The north side summit traverse was fun. Superb views from the summit. One of my favorite Sierra peaks!
Perfect day. Saw two other climbers. Came over from Carilion.
With Oscar O. Cold and windy, some snow on the north side of the ridge. Definitely a late fall outing.
Camped out the night before at lower Boy Scout Lake. Climbed the next day via the classic route. Perfectly clear day without a cloud in the sky.
E Ridge with my brother and Alex.
Climbed as a dayhike with balajisv. The Rockwell variation is less loose than the normal route, but is still a slog. Nice exposure along the East Ridge; a nice long day out!
Day hiked Russell and Carillon from Whitney Portal. Round trip took around 8 and a half hours. Russell was my final CA 14er.
Up the east ridge, which had epic exposure in spots. Great views of Whitney and a spectacular scramble.
We climbed the chute and wall before the normal chute below the East Ridge. It gets you out of the sand sooner and the wall at the top of the chute is a fun class 3/4 climb. It looks class 5 from a distance.
This is the chute that in most guidebooks etc. labelled as: don't climb this chute.
After scouting the correct pass from Whitney, it took me a few attempts to gain the Russel-Carrilon Pass. After finally gaining on that rock strewn wet ledge, I did the traverse. Was that the best kind of rock for a ridge traverse? Super slabby and high friction. Returned to camp at Iceberg Lake.
Hauled a load from the Portal to UBSL before ascending the Rockwell Variation to the East Ridge. Descended the sand scree after tagging Carillon.
Started the hike at 3:15am out of Whitney Portal's overnight parking lot. Rob and Tam, Frank and Brenda, and I Instantly started passing a dozen or so hikers before we left the main trail. We hiked in the dark all the way up to the Slabs just below Upper Boy Scout lake where we watched the sun rise. Just before we reached the slabs we found David, a member of our group who had left 30 min earlier than us. We filtered water there and then started hiking up the scree slog to the Hanging valley just below the Russell-Carillon pass. We were at the pass by 10am. The ridge was awesome the whole way with great hands and feet. Solid class 3 route + that exposure is insane! Summited at 12:30 and started going down just before 1. We filtered water again at the spot just below Upper Boy Scout lake. We arrived at the parking lot at 8pm and said our goodbyes to one another. A great day in the Sierras it was.
Fourth time was the charm. Weathered off the East Ridge twice last year, and some unfortunate snow placement in June. As it was, I only got about ten minutes on the summit, as a storm was coming in (snow and rain began about the time I was back on the Russell/Carillon saddle). Day hike from Whitney Portal.
I was very nervous going up to Russell due to never climbing a class 3 (on the East Ridge)- except for Muir, but that has only a short class 3 section. It turned out it is not as bad. The exposure, indeed great, did not scare me since I'm not afraid of heights. To get to the blade however, it is not for casual hikers.
2nd time up the East Ridge (this time with Todd). This was a long day, as we were not acclimated. First time was back in the mid 80's with Jim, after a week in Tuolumne Meadows and we blazed it. Also climbed the Fish Hook Arete with Marty in 1996 (one of the best climbing routes I have done in the Sierra - Not difficult, but perfect rock and a great location).
Took a couple tries because of snow, but finally made it.
Our 11th California 14er!
And July 30, 2012. An E-ticket climb, one of the best- ever.
With Rich Kim and Pat Hadley.