Mount Russell Climber's Log

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gordonye - Aug 6, 2007 1:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007

Fishhook Arete  Sucess!

Followed Dirk (Diggler) for 9 pitces on the Fishhook Arete. Very fun moderate climb with thrilling exposure for the whole route. Mellow approach from Iceberg Lake and fun class 4 downclimb on descent. Best view of Mount Whitney from the summit.


bennovak - Aug 6, 2007 12:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007

Rockwell variation-East ridge  Sucess!

Dayhike with a group of good friends. A really cool ridge. A bit of exposure and incredible views. The Rockwell variation is a slog too, but not as bad as the standard route up the R-C pass. Finished up by running back to the campground in Lone Pine.


SkydiveKen - Jul 24, 2007 12:18 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2007

Long day  Sucess!

Mt Russell up the south west face left side (class 4) and down the east ridge. Click on the image for the pics.

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by skydiveken


eferesen - Jul 2, 2007 2:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2007

Eastern Ridge  Sucess!

What a fun ride. I had been reading about Mount Russell and I finally did it. I met a couple of hikers and we had the peak to ourselves. I love this mountain. Thanks you geologic forces and mother nature


ghoulwe2 - Jul 2, 2007 2:54 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2007

East Ridge  Sucess!

Up the East Ridge from Whitney Portal, then down to Tulainyo Lake & a camp below Wallace Lake - next day did the N. Rib of Mt. Tyndall.

Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Jun 23, 2007 12:16 am Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2007

East Ridge  Sucess!

Despite my lack of enthusiasm in the morning, I made pretty good time (by my standards). 5 1/2 hours from Portal to summit, including about an hour of lollygaging at LBSL and UBSL. Took the far right chute up to the plateau--this is way better than the obvious one as seen from the lake. You can stay on talus most of the time. Hard to believe that there seemed to be no one in the NF drainage that day, except for two dayhikers. I ran into two other groups on their way in for an overnight as I descended to the Portal. Even the MMWT was pretty much empty. Awesome day, though. Warm, and hardly a breath of wind.


atavist - Jun 21, 2007 12:18 pm Date Climbed: May 20, 2006

warm up  Sucess!

Climbed Russell one week before my departure for Denali. The climb was good, soloed up the 5.4 chute via Iceberg Lake. Ever since this climb, the fishhook arete has been at the top of my list.

Edit to Add: Climbed Fishhook Arete on 6/15/08.

Dave S

Dave S - Jun 21, 2007 2:18 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009

Fishhook Arete  Sucess!

Great climb! Climbed Fishhook Arete with Will and Luis after climbing the EF of Whitney the day before. Definitely enjoyed this one more than either the EF or EB on Whitney!

Date Climbed: 10 Sept 2006
Route Climbed: East Ridge

Climbed the East Ridge (and also Mt Carillon) for the second time this summer. Great route!


Alpine72 - Jun 7, 2007 12:49 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2007

East ridge solo  Sucess!

Two day solo ascent via the Mounatieers route for Whitney. Had a few issues on the ridge with alltitude and route finding but worked through it.


Robertthethird - Apr 23, 2007 10:06 pm

East Ridge  Sucess!

great solo climb. Got stuck in a hail and lightning storm 10 minutes into the descent. Had to hang out under an overhang for 30 minutes and then got out of there.

Vic Hanson

Vic Hanson - Apr 2, 2007 4:00 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2000

Awesome Climb!  Sucess!

What an awesome climb! There were 5 of us that did it as a day hike from Whitney Portal. We went up the skree field from Upper Boy Scout Lake and up the East Arete. The exposure on Russell was a whole new experiance for me. Most of the way up we followed the use path on the North side but coming back I tried to stay as close to the top of the ridge as possible. That is the way to go in my opinion, many spots where you look down on both sides, the views can't beat, the hand holds are great and the exposure is very exciting. We were having a batchelor party for John Thiessen, who is a great friend and who introduced me to climbing.


bcd - Mar 21, 2007 4:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2004

Mithril  Sucess!

A cold day on the Mithril Dihedral.


Chuckpeezy1 - Oct 25, 2006 5:56 pm Date Climbed: May 24, 2006

wow  Sucess!

Did Muir and Whitney in the same trip. Russell made those seem like a tourist attraction.


forjan - Sep 27, 2006 2:21 am Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2006

Fishhook Arete  Sucess!

Climbed with MichaelJ. We camped Sunday night at Romain's favorite camping spot (Clyde Meadows) just below Upper Boy Scout Lake. Left camp around 6AM. Got to the base of the route around 8:20AM. We followed the route as in Supertopo. Michael started leading P1 at 8:40AM. I took the easy pitches P2, P4, P5 and P7 while Michael led the "fun" pitches P1, P3, P6 and P8. I took a fall following P8 (last pitch) on that short 5.9 hands section. I did it as a lieback. Minor cut to my right index finger as a result. Michael had left his pack clipped just below the 5.9 hands section for the lead, so I had to follow with 2 packs on. I rushed the lieback and fell. Topped out at 4:20PM (7 hrs 40 min: we're on the slow side). Descended the east ridge back to camp. Got to the Portal at ~ 8:30PM (missed out on the burger & fries....aghhh!).

Route Climbed: North Ridge
Date Climbed: August 12, 2006

Day 9 of the 2006 Sierra Challenge. Traversed over from Tunnabora Peak. Left Tunnabora's summit at 10:48AM and got to Russell's west summit at 12:18PM. Met up there with other Sierra Challenge people: Evan Rasmussen, Bill Peters, Bob Burd and Adam. Descended the east ridge and headed over to tag Carillon with Evan. Back at the Portal at 4:00PM.

Route Climbed: East Ridge
Date Climbed: September 14, 2002

Day hiked to the summit of Russell from the Portal. Went with mdostby. We did the Rockwell Variation starting at the western end of Upper Boy Scout Lake and then took the boroad large chute. To get to this chute keep walking west (northwest) 'til you almost hit a rock headwall. Turn right here. Climb ~ 100 ft up and you'll see the very broad large chute. The East Ridge, I think, is mostly class 2, but the exposure is considerable. If you encounter difficulty staying on the ridge, drop down on the right (north) side. Got to the summit at 2:00PM, then descended the South slope towards Clyde's Meadow (just below Upper Boy Scout Lake). The East Ridge was a fun climb!


mdostby - Sep 28, 2006 1:33 am

Re: Fishhook Arete

Congrats Miguel.


cagedalpinist - Sep 20, 2006 4:23 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006

E Ridge Blast  Sucess!

Beautiful weather. E. Ridge was classic views and great skyline climbing. Stayed to climb Whitney next day.

Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Sep 15, 2006 4:53 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2006

North Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed the North Ridge with Miguel Forjan on Day 9 of the Sierra Challenge. Trip Report


travelin_light - Sep 7, 2006 2:48 pm

Mithral Dihedral, Mount Russel  Sucess!

Wow, best rock ever. Did the route car to car and made it back for beer and burgers back at the store!


Travis_ - Sep 5, 2006 3:07 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2006

Rockwell variation-east ridge/south face  Sucess!

Great climb. First class 3. Loved the east ridge. Came down the south face, down to iceberg lake and down Whitney's Mountaineering route. Met OldManMike and the way up, joined the summit party and followed them down the south face.


jonhersh - Aug 31, 2006 10:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2004

Route Climbed: Fishhook Arete  Sucess!

Incredible climb. Thanks to my fried Dara for doing everything on lead. I was happy to go along for the ride and clean for him. The route description from Supertopo was great, as are the others we've used so far.

1st couple of pitches were very cold until the sun came around. Still glad we got an early start as we climb pretty slow and just got back to iceberg as it was getting dark.

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