Went up from Hannegan Pass TH - dropped down the gravel runout at 1.5mi back, created a makeshift bridge across Ruth Creek with available trees, and proceeded to make it to the 2nd major waterfall in Bloody Head Couloir. At this point, if dry, easy 4th / low 5th class ascent. As it were, mossy / muddy / super wet covered rocks made this unmanageable. Got to about the 4300' level and turned around to live another day.
Probably only had 250yds of suffering up through similar beyond this until hitting the first dusting of snow, but likely will not try this again until it is packed with snow
Submitted trip report. Great route in the right season.
Early season is the best for this route. Some brush down low, but a lot of good snow up above. Climbed the "Wall Street" route to the SE Ridge. Great summit!
We climbed the wrong peak! plus we lost 1. hours clearing a log from the road.
here are some pics:
We made 'unconvential' route choices, that involved a few short ice pitches, climbing over ice-plastered trees, and the discovery of a (luckily very shallow) crevasse high on the mountian. Started at 6am, done at 11pm. Lots of post holing.